Dose Pipe Sutututu

Hypergear have one.. but not in production, just a prototype for them to ticker with...

ghey! you're doing something wrong, just add more boost nek time lol

MotiveDVD guys have their stock motor R32 GTR making over 450kW at all fours with only new headstuds and a head gasket. These RB motors love it.

awesome car yard in Sydney that can supply any car with the kms you want lol.. they simply wind the clock back to what you want and tell you they've found this mint car from Japan LOL I personally didn't buy my rust bucket from them, but the previous owner did!

fuark, mine's a mint Edward Lees R33. Shows 149xxx but body says it has about 350xxx. Rust was hidden with sound deadening, motor had leaks on rear main seal, front main seal, cam covers etc. Did all the maintenance work and now sees 23 to 25psi err day stock motor and gets raped on the track, albeit it's a shit box GTS-t so yours being a GTR you have no worries.

stacking them is completely fine.. I am going to do the same thing (one day) when I am bothered.. below pic is great, shows it fits without hitting naything

new headgasket and new head studs would be great... or at a minimum some new headstuds would be great.. at $250 it is good value keeping the sandwich happy.

Alrighty.. 13 days to go till I see Wakefield Park again! Just in the process of moving my oil cooler to the driver's wheel arch to promote cooler air flow to the radiator. I find the sandwiching of FMIC, Oil Cooler, Radiator isn't too effective for track duties and found water temp was rising a little too much for my liking. Anyhow, install guide for the MCA coilovers.. who doesn't like a good install guide? LINK HERE: http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-gts-t-mca-x-race-coilover-install/ Tools Required: Breaker Bar Torque Wrench (optional) 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm Sockets Trolley Jack & Jack Stands Rubber Mallet (optional) Duration: 3 hours Difficulty: Medium Profanity Level: Medium Step 1: Jack up your car and securely lower it on a set of solid jack stands with the wheel removed as per the photo. Step 2: Locate the front shock absorber’s mounting points, at the top 2x 14mm nuts and at the bottom 1x 17mm nut . Step 3: Time to get physical, firstly unbolt the bracket that holds the ABS sensor line (only on ABS equipped vehicles), then undo the bottom nut followed by the two at the top. Gracefully then wiggle the shock absorber out, this is where a rubber mallet “might” come in handy when trying to pull the shock out from the bottom mounting point. Note: Might be wise to have a second set of hands holding the shock absorber as you remove the top 2x 14mm nuts as it will drop down. If you’re good with multitasking, holding the shock with one arm whilst you’re removing the 2x 14mm nuts works too (that’s what I had to do because Flop wasn’t around) Break: Time to get that business on! but first, some mirin’ time and side by side comparisons! Step 5: Pretty much reverse of what you’ve done to take them out, starting with the top 2x 14mm nuts, followed by the bottom 17mm nut. Note that because of the new shock absorber aka coilover suspension, there is a lack of droop which may make it difficult to align the suspension mounting points to the upright. A simple solution to this is to use a trolley jack and load up the lower control arm till it aligns with the bottom eyelet of the coilover. Once you’ve tightened up everything, just admire the detail of the suspension hardware. Step 6: Time for the rears, same as the front jack up the car securely then lower on jack stands Step 7: Pull out your rear seats, by first removing the bottom bench which will expose 2x 10mm bolts that hold the backrest in place. Remove those bolts, and lift the backrest upwards as it will come off the hangers. Once the seat is fully out of the car, remove the parcel tray by pulling it out on an angle (it will make more sense as you attempt it). Step 8: Locate the suspension strut tops of either end of the rear. You will see there’s a parcel tray support bracket, simply remove the front 10mm nut holding it and slide it across so you have direct access to the strut top. Now remove the 2x 12mm nuts holding the top of the suspension. Step 9: Locate the bottom mount of the shock absorber, again this wil be a 17mm nut. Simple remove this nut (I’m lazy thus you see the cordless impact wrench). Step 10: Similar to the front shock absorber, you may need to give it a whack with the rubber mallet to separate it from the rear spindle. Break: I suggest a beer at this point, as removing the rear seats was probably not fun nor exciting. Whilst smashing down a few cans, admire what you’ve just purchased and compare it to what you had previously (it’s a great feeling). Step 11: Time to bolt shit back, pretty straight forward – reverse the process of when you removed them. Step 12 (Optional): If you’re like me and love tinkering and adjusting shit all day, MCA have these optional strut top adjustment extenders for the rears (of course not free but worth investing). These flexible rods allow you to adjust the dampers without the need to pull out the parcel tray OR cut massive holes for your hands. Pretty straight forward, measure and trim the rod as required then they simply just hook up to the adjuster tops and tighten up with a small 3mm grub screw. I chose to butcher up my parcel tray and feed them through, alternatively they would still work wedged up between your seat and parcel tray. Step 13: Repeat for the opposite side of the car, yippee! All done, time to rock and roll. If the height requires adjustment, please follow MCA’s instructions. Also don’t forget to hit up a wheel alignment shop and re-dial in the toe settings for the front and back. If you have the luxury of camber arms, get those checked too and dialed in accordingly as changing height will affect other aspects of the geometry.

there's a factory heat exchanger which keeps the water and oil temp inline.. benefits of this.. cools down the oil when it gets too hot and also brings oil temperature to operating temps Draw backs, if the oil temp exceeds the water temp, it will bring the water temp up. A way around this is to increase your cooling capacity by installing a decent radiator which should theoretically keep the water temps in check and also keep the oil temps a little lower.. but real world says you need to also install an oil cooler to bring the overall temperature of both oil and water down.

go buy a wideband, a wideband is cheaper than a melted piston

I don't believe that statement is correct... the job of the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is to control rail pressure. Regardless of what the fuel pump OR fuel pressure being pushed into the rail, the FPR will control the rail pressure to maintain 3 bar of fuel pressure going into the motor (taking into account the plenum vac/pressure). The only instance where the fuel pressure is all over the shop (using the factory regular) is when there's so much flow it cannot return fuel quick enough.. usually caused by running surge tank setups with twin pumps.

SOLD going straight to 2x slabs of beer now... Dan Murphys sale LOL

You'll lose some response moving to a 6boost, but you'll end up making more power.

do you have a wideband? scale the injectors to the right percentage then set the fuel map where it idles at around 100, now adjust the latency on the fly till the idle afr is at around stoich

Use a magnet, see if it sticks to the rear wheel.. regardless time for a real highflow - contact Hypergear! And before someone goes, get a GCG highflow don't.. because they're laggy.. better way spending your money at GCG is to get a real turbo from them.

Comes on pretty good, then again it is a Stagea so there's more load/weight.. I'm assuming your timing is pretty relaxed, thus the EGTs are higher and it comes on earlier. I found out through trial and error, with lower timing the turbo does come on a little earlier but the car feels pretty lazy and shit.. with loads of timing coming onto boost it is more lively but doesn't go full noise till about another 100 to 200rpm later.

#datneolife I find they like to spool turbos up earlier than R33 RB25DET nugget motors..

a little naughty, but drop your cat and run the car dump/down pipe to atmosphere (as a test) and see if it comes on earlier.. chances are your exhaust system is restrictive.

I wasn't arguing - I just wanted to understand your justifications and other people's justifications for upgrading something that works completely fine on the street. I did say for track use it was not adequate. I myself will be upgrading my brakes, but it's purely because I track the car and also have reached the factory limits of the braking system (which actually only happens after 2~3 hot laps).

I don't think your RPM vs. KM/h has been derived properly thus it looks a little more laggy than it is... Also should go E85 ASAP, with the added exhaust gas produced, you'll get the turbo on noise quicker.. look at the result posted here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-53#entry7637416 It's all in at 4500rpm and makes a silly 365kW

Havoc has my manifold already, but I haven't taken off the turbo yet as I still need the car for an upcoming track day. Note that I will need a new rear housing as discussed as I'm currently running a scotty mod housing

LOL yes, but I'm not made of money and getting a turbo that's worth the cost of my entire car is idiotic! EFRs belong on the likes of a GTR EVO Supra RX7, not some shit box R33 GTSt lol

No 45SAT I'm happy with the lag of the SS2, anymore and I might as well just have a dyno queen that's absolutely useless for the track. A little more power would be great and maybe more response.. I do like the looks of the new SS2, would be perfect for track use. 4k worth of rpm to use!

I get that, but the stock brakes are fine for street use, they are more than better most of the brakes found on 90% of the cars on the road. What pads were you using with your stock brakes? What camber were you running before with your stock brakes? What tyres and tyre size were you running before with your stock brakes? I cannot fathom one can say that they can reach the limits of their stock 4 piston brakes on the road.

I initially ran the car on the dyno and it made 290kW so I got my mate and the shop owner to hop in the back and it read 310kW, after that I strapped the car down fairly tight. I am thinking there's a restriction on the hotside/exhaust as I am running a very quiet exhaust system + a cat. I don't think it's timing related, as you can see I'm running a bucket load of timing (even the shop owner was like you're leaning too much on the timing to make power). However one thing to note, the car was running E61 as I only decided that morning to fine tune the timing map, so potentially the power shortfall could have been through diluted concentration of ethanol. After the new year, I'll put a new manifold on from HAVOC and see what the car can make before the motor grenades itself hahahaha