Dose Pipe Sutututu

Havoc has my manifold already, but I haven't taken off the turbo yet as I still need the car for an upcoming track day. Note that I will need a new rear housing as discussed as I'm currently running a scotty mod housing

LOL yes, but I'm not made of money and getting a turbo that's worth the cost of my entire car is idiotic! EFRs belong on the likes of a GTR EVO Supra RX7, not some shit box R33 GTSt lol

No 45SAT I'm happy with the lag of the SS2, anymore and I might as well just have a dyno queen that's absolutely useless for the track. A little more power would be great and maybe more response.. I do like the looks of the new SS2, would be perfect for track use. 4k worth of rpm to use!

I get that, but the stock brakes are fine for street use, they are more than better most of the brakes found on 90% of the cars on the road. What pads were you using with your stock brakes? What camber were you running before with your stock brakes? What tyres and tyre size were you running before with your stock brakes? I cannot fathom one can say that they can reach the limits of their stock 4 piston brakes on the road.

I initially ran the car on the dyno and it made 290kW so I got my mate and the shop owner to hop in the back and it read 310kW, after that I strapped the car down fairly tight. I am thinking there's a restriction on the hotside/exhaust as I am running a very quiet exhaust system + a cat. I don't think it's timing related, as you can see I'm running a bucket load of timing (even the shop owner was like you're leaning too much on the timing to make power). However one thing to note, the car was running E61 as I only decided that morning to fine tune the timing map, so potentially the power shortfall could have been through diluted concentration of ethanol. After the new year, I'll put a new manifold on from HAVOC and see what the car can make before the motor grenades itself hahahaha

side feeds are gay, don't do it.. you'll cry in your sleep, have nightmares which will result in you wetting your bed.

I tried a mixture of things, first few runs pushed the SS2 (circa 2013) to 26psi, but it bled down to about 23psi.. no real difference in power, then tried a few more runs each time less boost. Seemed pretty happy at 23~24psi however no difference in power. This is when I started adding in more timing, kept on adding more and more and more to the point where it stopped making power (however was listening for audible knock, which I couldn't hear nor see on the logs). Pretty much ended up with the following below (timing trace through logs vs. boost).

no offence taken however is this a street car or a track car? If you're reaching the limits of the stock brakes on the street, then really you should be shot LOL

Just use Lucas Ethanol Stabiliser, pretty cheap and drop in 30mL at a time into your full tank... prior to my flex setup, I just did that and the car gets driven at most once a week, usually every fortnight. Fuel filter after 2000km looked pretty ok, no extra deposits or anything but did have some brown gunk in it as usual. As for running an external, make sure you vent it from the manifold to relieve back pressure.. running the gate of the turbo "may" be a good idea however the factory manifold is pretty restrictive as I've found out on the dyno. The manifold and gate were glowing bright red and when I added in more timing the car wouldn't make any more power... I'm in the process or moving the gate onto the manifold from the turbo housing.. hopefully should see less back pressure and allow me to dial in more timing. FWIW I put in an additional 6 degrees of timing and it only netted 327kW, I pulled back 3 degrees and it made 325kW @1.6bar boost.

You missed my continued post lol Initial was about street use second was about track

to continue my post, for street use you're never really going to hit the limits of the factory brake setup. On the track I agree with others that you'll easily see the limits of the factory brakes but no way on the streets unless you're doing some wangan business down the motorway. By the way what pads are you running? If you answer Bendix then that's why you're thinking you need better brakes and the OEM gear is shit.

I run standard brakes, with Project Mu HC+ on a car that makes well over 300kW+ and it stops fine at Wakefield over and over again. Also it's not like I'm going slow either, average speed down the main straight is about 195km/h I think people always think they need better brakes but what they need are better pads and a set of non homo rotors, ie no dimples no slots no cross drilled bullshit.

** reposted, previous ad had wrong size ** Hey All, Pulled these tyres of the missus' car to replace with RE003 Potenza tyres. Decent tread left on all 4, 2x have about 7mm worth of tread and the other 2x about 4mm tread. Tyres have no punctures, no chucks missing, no blisters and are evenly worn with no visible camber wear. They have been professionally removed by JAX Liverpool (not some backyard job). Brand: Goodyear Range: Assurance Size: 205/55/16 Build Year: 2012 Price: $120 Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166

You have a much greater chance knocking with more timing than more boost less timing, provided your IAT are lowish. Most tuners would choose loads of boost and low timing than loads of timing less boost, provided the turbo can provide enough puff. Saying you can't run more than 20psi on 98 is incorrect.

1. Run less timing, more boost. 2. Get a better FMIC 3. Run less timing 4. Yes, but safer way to tune, get a better FMIC Back to my point, you just can't say "Running 25psi on PULP? That just be asking for trouble IMO. Most people keep to a more sensible 18-20psi and turbos that hit the sweet efficiency there"

not true... cylinder pressure causes motors to go kapow NOT pressure generated by boost.

should try what I recommended earlier, however I know you're the type not to listen so here is what you're looking for. Fuel Pressure Offset Slope (psid) (µsec) (cc/min) 8 Volts 10 Volts 12 Volts 14 Volts 16 Volts 40.0 2195 1495 1115 885 710 845 43.5 2280 1540 1145 910 730 885 (noticed the table lost its formatting, you'll work it out)

also slowest lol, 1m14s

I think you guys need to measure an intercooler's ability to cool down the charged air as well as pressure drop. Measuring the out put power based on an intercooler is not a good way of determining it's efficiency.

oh shit, good pick up lol these are 205/55/16 guys!

just make up a curve you'll be surprised what I've seen come out of workshops lol

Hey All, Pulled these tyres of the missus' car to replace with RE003 Potenza tyres. Decent tread left on all 4, 2x have about 7mm worth of tread and the other 2x about 4mm tread. Tyres have no punctures, no chucks missing, no blisters and are evenly worn with no visible camber wear. They have been professionally removed by JAX Liverpool (not some backyard job). Brand: Goodyear Range: Assurance Size: 205/50/16 Build Year: 2012 Price: $120 Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166

Easiest way is to keep the same VE table as with your current injectors, then scale your new injectors to the correct size then adjust the dead times till you hit stoich (or whatever afr you idled with your old injectors).

those end tanks look kind of restrictive

big dump down pipe ano no cat is best... easily gain 10kW with no cat