Bang an IAT and measure the temp going into the motor and also measure the boost drop.
I found with China Ling Long cores they don't tend to cool so well, however on e85 that isn't too much of a concern provided your IATs are under 60 degrees or so.
I didn't find much of a power difference when my IAT shot past 50 degrees. On pump, high IAT would be knock city
#doyouevenbodyroll ? haha.. this is with 24mm solid ARBs front and back set to the freaking hardest setting... overall understand and oversteer was very balanced/neutral...
however, by doing so I've snapped about 3 sets of ARB links to the spindle... they snap like butter when I hit a ripple strip or come off the track.
wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too soft, I know everyone will say get thicker ARBs, blah blah.. yes I have, still way too much weight shift.
Here's a video of 3x different drivers with the same car.. the 1st driver is a seasoned track broad minded person.
I've been in a car with BC BRs but not have driven nor been in a car with BC BRs on the track. My previous setup consisted of Bilstein B5 shocks with lowered springs as per SydneyKid's recommendations.
They clearly didn't suit my needs, thus they were removed and replaced with MCA X-Rs.
I will be going to Wakefield 20th December for some testing, will provide video footage of Bilsteins vs. MCAs
Fire it backwards to load it up (know as superpositioning) which will give you about a 3dB gain - approximately double the "loudness" and with careful port tuning you could pull another 2~3dB from the cabin gain.
I did 146dB with a single 12" Solobaric being fed 1.5kW back in the days however I had a 140L or so box.
I reckon a single 12" DD Subwoofer with about 1kW going to it will push you past 145dB easily in a ported box and if you feed it more it will make even more power.. downside is these subs don't go low and need huge boxes.
http://www.ddaudio.com/products/mobile-audio/woofers/dd9500
Question is, what is your goal and what is your budget?
You can go loud on a budget but you'll need at least a decent subwoofer/driver... get a pair of Jaycar monoblocks and strap them together
a wagon and not a coupe..
then a bunch of subs, slot ported individually and tuned using a SPL meter to see what resonate frequency the sub will peak at... each cabin is different.
I used to be into this shit 1.5 decades ago.
The flow a little to reduce air pockets in the oil cooler lines/oil cooler itself.
I run the same unit, which can be seen here on my car:
http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-skyline-oil-cooler-with-thermostat/
AEM is good, no need to free air calibrate and the kit doesn't cook sensors like the Innovate kits.
I've had two gauges fail on me already, first one couldn't display text properly next one died in 3 months and kept showing E9 then I've cooked 1x sensor luckily this was all within a year so was covered by warranty.
With the AEM units, I installed an AEM UEGO into my mates s15 and it's still going strong 3 years on and readings were inline (a little richer as pre cat) to what was showing on the dyno
just leave the stock one on then.. if you're not making massive HP and your IATs are fairly low there's no need to upgrade an intercooler.
It's like upgrading a fuel pump on your stock Honda Civic GLi.. won't make more power.
For E85, 8s are boarder line too cold.. 7s are fine.. depends on how much boost you're making.
Stock manifold is a restriction, they glow bright red on heavy load... even on E85. I'm in the process of getting a stock manifold modified venting the exhaust pressure/gases from there.