Dose Pipe Sutututu

well, say if he plans to put in a proper diff, a sequential box, a dirty 30, full brembos all round.... then no real diff if it's GTS-t OR GTS... actually he benefits... doesn't have that homo HICAS subframe

you mean if it used AFM on cruise, MAP on decel, and MAP on WOT that would be perfect

NA motor out, use as a boat anchor. RB25DET NEO motor in.

not on E85, I've found it just loses power rather than knock like 98RON, it might knock but not audible like 98RON (from my self tuning experience)

my other two friends use them and they work fine, one is running a Haltech PS1000 (self tubed) and and the other a megasquirt (self tuned)

Just get a contenental sensor, visit jaycar for the connectors then bam you've got flex I'm running it now, just one downside you need a good 98RON map then you need to use the compensation tables to build the E85 maps. I would have preferred of adaptronic had two maps (one for each fuel type) and interpolated them based on ethanol concentration. Nistune does an amazing job at this, too bad it runs an AFM, if it ran a MAP sensor I would drop the adaptronic right away.

Even the new highflow on E85 would easily net over 300kW like John Richardson's WTAC boat

You probably paid way too much, that's what I meant.

BAM... SOLD

Bendix pads are horrible, and the Bendix CT don't stop. I had those pads in the daily Corolla and they crumbled to bits so I contacted Bendix and they sent me a free sent of Bendix Heavy Duty. Just God awful pads.

you failed at physics why would resistance change? you need to change the equation to: P = VI, now say "if" the pump is run at 3bar base pressure + 1.5bar of boost (because yolo).. it would require ~11amp at 13.5V to run the Walbro 255. This means, it will consume 148.5 watts so put that back into the equation, now it becomes 148.5 = V x I, now as you reduce V, you need to increase I Let's say we run the pump at 12V, that becoming 148.5 = 12 x I, current now has increased to 12.375AMP A good real world example, high voltage power lines are in the 10s of thousands.. the reason behind this is to carry lower current, thus less resistance

very basic tuning, of course you need to also factor in EGT, knock, IAT, etc. download something like Virtual Dyno... start with timing figures as low as 10 and flat across the board, but make sure your AFR is nice and rich to keep things from going bang Do a 3rd gear run, inspect power/torque made Increase timing by x degrees Do a 3rd gear run, inspect power/torque made Increase timing by x degrees when you add 1x extra degree and you're making crap all gains - it's time to back off the timing a little.. of course you need to repeat this process multiple times to get it right... another thing to note, you can ramp up timing as torque decreases... this is where you need to properly overlay readouts to determine this.. then repeat the same process but only after peak torque to redline. If you live in Australia (which you don't) I wouldn't recommend this on the streets at all.. but I'm assuming you're from the states.. so go nuts.

take it to another auto electrican to double check before he or she takes you for a ride

Shouldn't be buying aftermarket parts at Autobarn.

atmospheric catch can or aftermarket BOV? Take a photo of your engine bay and show us

alloy is black

Yeah that's not a bad idea, but removing the charcoal cannister and placing it there looks more tidy as well as defective lol. On a side note, my dodgy install new studs and torque down the head band-aid solution worked. Was at Wakefield all day today pumping 1.5 bar through the motor and no signs of pressure building up in the cooling system.. yay for 19 year old head gasket and motor haha

Just Japs (ironically most of their parts are China parts lol) have them in alloy NS Hi Octane Racing have them in plastic. I prefer the alloy one as you can grind off shit to fit aftermarket pipes, etc. I had the plastic one and attemptEd that and it met the bin.

I wanna upgrade now (has a sads)

Hallos, Selling my SARD Type-RJ Fuel Pressure Regulator & SARD Fuel Pressure Gauge. Before you ask me if it's real or fake, I'm pretty sure it's not real but it works. The gauge "should be" real as I bought it from CJ-Motors, but then again everything anything SARD is questionable. I have had this running on my car for over a year with no real issues, I've just upgraded to a Turbosmart FPR1200 just because I wanted to LOL. So what you're getting: SARD Type-RJ Fuel Pressure Regulator SARD Fuel Pressure Gauge 2x -6AN to 5/16" or 8mm barb fittings (perfect for standard fuel hoses) Price: $50 or a slab of decent beer Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166 Here's a photo of it:

that's a kind of timing map for E85, there's too much timing.,, but listen to STATUS, he does this for a living.

it should be 5V

as you're about to do a 3rd gear pull press the t key and you'll see a cell tracer appear. It will highlight the cells you hit on your run. Do a screen shot of that and post it up.

hit up scotty_nm35 he gets shit mad prices

Hard to say, but looks pretty flat. Less timing will make the turbo come on a little quicker as EGTS are hotter and richer AFRS will increase torque but sacrifice some power. Post up a map trace on like a 3rd gear pull.