Dose Pipe Sutututu

I would go for a Hypergear turbo if budget doesn't allow for a GTX turbo.

sounds like your crank and enrichment tables haven't been defined properly or well, bring it back to your tuner.. or play around with it yourself if you have a wideband

brand new Circuit Sports Alternator can be had under 350 delivered from the US when there are sales on FRSport. They're also 90 amp, not to mention brand new. Solved all my voltage drops and misfire issues, yay!

HKS2530/5 are ok, but they're starting to show their age in terms of technology. I would rather a brand new turbo with some form of billet wheel.

but that negative goes to a relay which triggers a positive feed to the fuel pump. Connecting the pump's earth directly to the chassis won't affect its on and off ability

for an extra 50 bucks why not get a deep cycle optima battery? D51T1R or some shit, it's reverse terminals and small

RB20 is smaller than RB25 which is smaller than a RB25 neo.

do it once, do it right... (buy a C63 AMG) lol.. yes that was a poor joke

Here's an idea, just run whatever boost you run on 98RON safely, then on E85 run the same amount - however just pump in loads and loads of timing till the motor/turbo combination stops making power and back a couple if degrees. At the end of the day, it's going to still make more power than 98RON, not a totally pointless exercise. For reference, I tuned my mate's S15 and it made 197kW on 98RON.. when we moved it over to E85 it made 215kW - however it made heaps more mid range power as I was able to pump in heaps of timing into the notorious SR20 timing hole where max torque is achieved.

not entirely correct, you're still able to run loads of timing around the middle of the rpm range without any knock and a few more degrees up top

Oh here's a video of me overtaking a pretty powerful R34 GT-t ehehhehe

Hey All, So I've decided to sell my Bilstein shocks with H&R lowered spring (rear) and unknown lowered non progressive springs (front). The height I think is very decent - not too low, not too high. This package managed to do a 1m12s around Wakefield Park, so it's decent enough.. but owning a floating fridge with wheels on the track, something a little stiffer is needed hence they're up for sale. History on these shocks: I actually bought these used a while ago so I have no idea how many kms are on them. When I purchased them they were on horrid slammed off it's tits king springs which I pulled off and sold immediately. I then re-used a set of front springs I had already on the car with H&R progressive rear springs which I bought off this very forum. I replaced the worn bump stops with some used stuff I had lying around, replaced the strut tops with some slightly better ones from my car and plonked the lot on my car. Shocks do not leak and are very comfortable. No audible knocks and no signs of bent shit, I would say these not too bad (heaps better than your chopped springs on standard shocks). Because I have no idea of the age, and the KMs traveled I am planning to let the entire lot go for pretty cheap. However, I won't remove them from the car till the prospective buyer is happy with them, i.e. I'll take you for a ride around my local hood. What you will get: - Front & Rear Bilstein shocks (no circlip mod) - Front Unknown Lowered Springs (non progressive) - Rear H&R Lowered Springs (progressive) - Decent strut tops - Ok looking random bump stops lol How It Sits: Price: $350 (yes I've got it listed more on social media, it's because there's a moron filter tax) Location: Canley Vale, NSW Contacts: Here or PM Oh yeah, here's a video of my car & suspension combo in action:

Wow Paul's car is alive, excuse to hold a private Wakefield day lol..

or your water temp sensor is cactus... potentially accessing enrichment values from the water temp correction table... buy a wide band already, it's cheaper than a new motor.

no, mine looks stock as shit

nah that's only got 43000km

yes easy, just buy after market clamp and battery terminals

just sms or email him, he will get back to you......usually at night LOL he's pretty busy during the day building turbos and eating his lunch in dyno rooms

I've tuned with the 740s before on a SR20 but not on a RB and didn't have real issues.. but taking note that per cylinder a SR uses more fuel than a RB hence idle/cruise might have been better as it required a higher duty cycle

Jam a wideband on the exhaust

is this a R34 OR R33? I know for a fact R33 GTS-t front fan isn't triggered by the A/C trigger but is triggered by the thermoswitch located on the bottom driver's side of the radiator.. however on the GT-R PIN6 triggers the fan.

740cc man, 555cc you'll run out of injector very quickly. I'm running 875cc stainless steel top feeds and at 343kW I'm already sitting at 87% duty. Go top feed man, if you use half height injectors they will fit underneath the stock plenum easily without any silly spacers ot deleting hoses like other homo kits.

Jam a multimeter in your car and see if your voltage drops as there's load on your motor or if you can just log it from your ecu. I had a shit house misfire problem too, turns out was my stock alternator playing up. On idle, it would show up 13.8V but as soon as you increase the RPM it would drop to around 12.2V. Replaced it with a brand new Circuit Sports one and misfire gone!

The Nismo diff is amazing, especially the ability to adjust how aggressive it is However I don't mind the 2-way KAAZ I'm running now, just run extra friction modifiers and it is quite streetable

my point of view get another opinion on the tune. I personally wouldn't have a timing map like that, but that's my personal choice.