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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. and note that the Z32 won't work on your stock ECU. Time for an aftermarket one or a nistune daughterboard
  2. Turn you boost down, colder weather means denser air. More "air" read by the AFM means a higher TP Load, and because it's a stock ECU and tune you're hitting cells where timing is absolutely retarded as fk. Boost doesn't equal TP Load, you might be able to run 10/11 psi in summer or so but when it's cold you'll hit those cells running the same boost. I suggest you turn down the boost.
  3. buy an used RB26DETT, drop a new HG and new studs.. buy a nice turbo setup, more economical than that 10k job.
  4. I don't think you searched enough.
  5. pressure test the hot/cold side.
  6. the lock bar itself should fit not 100% on the tie rods and ends.
  7. Howdy, As per title, HICAS lock bar with near new tie rod ends.. both tie rods and lock bar approximately under 2 years old. Removed because moving to a HICAS eliminator setup. Price: $110 Location: Canley Vale, NSW
  8. My 2 cents, I've been running E85 for about 2 years now and only recently gone over to a flex setup... I've also alway have used cheapy Ryco filters and bing then each time I do an oil change. The only thing I can think is that I've replaced all my old OEM Nissan fuel lines with Gates Barricade (except the hose from the LHS side of the tank that cross over into the lid then to the "jet pump". Not long ago, I decided to pull out my injectors to have a look, they still seem quite happy.
  9. Didn't put it on the dyno so no idea lol.. just put timing into the motor till I could hear a touch of knock then backed a few degrees off. I'm convincing him to just put a RB25DET NEO into it lol
  10. not sure if related, but when I did my timing kit and removed the VCT solenoid to take the seals off, I over tightened the VCT using a rattle gun (being lazy of course). Some how I jammed the unit and the car was sluggish down below... Make sure it's sitting in the right position before torquing it up to spec.
  11. how much power/torque are you actually after? Perhaps a stock R34 NEO turbo might just suit your needs.. I recently road tuned a R34 NEO turbo bolted to a RB20DET and it's not too bad in terms of lag and power.
  12. would not buy, just send your turbo to hypergear
  13. I would go for a Hypergear turbo if budget doesn't allow for a GTX turbo.
  14. sounds like your crank and enrichment tables haven't been defined properly or well, bring it back to your tuner.. or play around with it yourself if you have a wideband
  15. brand new Circuit Sports Alternator can be had under 350 delivered from the US when there are sales on FRSport. They're also 90 amp, not to mention brand new. Solved all my voltage drops and misfire issues, yay!
  16. HKS2530/5 are ok, but they're starting to show their age in terms of technology. I would rather a brand new turbo with some form of billet wheel.
  17. but that negative goes to a relay which triggers a positive feed to the fuel pump. Connecting the pump's earth directly to the chassis won't affect its on and off ability
  18. for an extra 50 bucks why not get a deep cycle optima battery? D51T1R or some shit, it's reverse terminals and small
  19. RB20 is smaller than RB25 which is smaller than a RB25 neo.
  20. do it once, do it right... (buy a C63 AMG) lol.. yes that was a poor joke
  21. Here's an idea, just run whatever boost you run on 98RON safely, then on E85 run the same amount - however just pump in loads and loads of timing till the motor/turbo combination stops making power and back a couple if degrees. At the end of the day, it's going to still make more power than 98RON, not a totally pointless exercise. For reference, I tuned my mate's S15 and it made 197kW on 98RON.. when we moved it over to E85 it made 215kW - however it made heaps more mid range power as I was able to pump in heaps of timing into the notorious SR20 timing hole where max torque is achieved.
  22. not entirely correct, you're still able to run loads of timing around the middle of the rpm range without any knock and a few more degrees up top
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