Dose Pipe Sutututu

Looks like tuners will be making loads of money on flex tunes soon

I have hardrace too, I installed a set of GKtech ones on my mate's S15 and the thread had heaps of tolerance, horrible imo.

ooooo dem brakes too bad we will never gate cruise together I came too late, well the missus likes me late so that's ok too hahaha

LOL.. but it's off the shelf stuff and cost $45 what he needs is something not off the shelf

buy plugs and make it, piece of piss.

I've never heard of anyone using it for a mechanical diff

It does store the settings with power/no power, etc. I've had the same boost controller. The control unit only has 2x wires for power, GND and IGN - there's no constant power. You could easily figure out how to set it yourself, the lower the GAIN the "lazier" it comes onto boost, the higher the GAIN the "harder" it comes onto boost but will have the tendency to spike. SET just determines how much boost you want to run, please note SET the scaling does not equate to any boost figure.

definitely would upgrade based on the fact it's making 300kW by 3500rpm !

R34 GT-t S1 has a VLSD = gay R34 GT-t S2 has a Helical = pretty damn awesome for a street car with mild power.

besides the fact they're overpriced and these days that kind of power level is boring.

we are friendly, we haven't told him to neck himself yet well you see, most of the smart arse replies are actually from the older crew.. ok let's play nice kids.. OP, what power do you want? and at what RPM do you want to hit your targeted boost? and the final question.. how much money do you want to blow?

Buy a modded skyline, sell yours.

Completely fine, the motor will now also happily take more timing too because of going to an external setup. In saying that, don't trash the car till it has been loaded up on the dyno

it actually is pretty accurate, however the scaling is in torr - which people have no understanding about. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torr

hardrace ones aren't too bad.. I'm using them now.. I have 8 degrees of castor dialled into my R33 boat, I wanted to go more but the guy doing my wheel alignment said I'll destroy my ball joints and upper control arm bushes at lightening speeds.

and which aren't that great either... people rave about BC BR, however the masses of BC BR owners have never used any other coilovers.

what LCAs are you running? are they stock? If you're keen on increasing track, run S14/S15 LCAs then slap some spacers on the rear. If you want something value for money other than the RS-R, look at Nitto NT05... Like the RS-R, not a true track tyre. If money permits, NT01

open your eyes mang.. I'm asian and still can see it with my slitty eyes LOL One thing to note, if it has only just started to to play up.. potentially the stock O2 is cactus OR that wank valve is leaking on idle and needs to be tensioned up. My advice, install the stock BOV.. they're marvellous.

china turbo? stainless manifold? sounds like a recipe for lag & cracking manifolds

SS2 on E85 with external 1.65bar / 24psi at ~4300rpm in 3rd/4th (provided there's traction lol)

Pull off the pressure sense hose on the actuator, then report back how much boost you saw

Cheap fake OEM one?

Or train, they're great

Lol.. Strong sarcasm detected It will barely run is the answer

nope, NPC uses Exedy parts - however their clutches are modified with different friction material and their pressure plates are modified in house. A normal Sports Organic or Ceramic (silver pressure plate) clamps less than a NPC and the pedal effort required to disengage the clutch is heaps more. Doug from NPC (I believe through rumours) used to work at Exedy and took his knowledge to NPC.