Dose Pipe Sutututu

brah reset the farking thing, I'll setup a base map for you so the car is drivable... tits for all

turn the boost down

S1 (with airbag) vs S2 with airbag is very different. S1 has the SRS module built into the wheel where as most (not all) S2 has the SRS module under the centre console. If you want a S2 wheel, perhaps get a 180SX Type-X wheel as it uses the same setup as the older S1 with airbag.

At the end of the day tuner's see it as intellectual property and prefer not to share their tunes, similar can be said about euro cars. All the tune files are encrypted and tuning shops push encrypted tunes into their customer cars (if using the stock ECU). But for a tuner to demand that kind of money, just bring it to another shop get them to reset the ECU, load up a similar tune and tweak it to suit your mods. Or what ECU and mods do you have? just reset the farking thing and I can put together base map for you to get the car drivable and to the shops to buy a slab of beer.

GONE! Swapped it for floor mats LOL

Another update, got 1m13.01s according to Q-Starz and managed 195.3km/h down the main straight. I really need coilovers LOL

go E85 and a flex setup man... Haltech or Adaptronic ECU will be tits.

sexy, reminds me of my old LP2 Midnight Purple 180SX

If you follow the water line, it mates to a rubber hose behind the head.. it's a slart to get to, but you'll manage... if your hands are too big, you can loosen the gearbox mount & tailshaft bracket and jack up the gearbox - this gives you another 1cm of clearance (that's what I did to get to it)... I think on the R34 NEO motors however it's a metal line all round. On the R33 RB25 and R32 RB20DET it's a stupid rubber hoses with a spring clip.

car runs stock box, stock gearbox, stock head, stock cams.. just has stiffer valve springs and stock cams lol. $80k my arse.. just has forged pistons and rods, even the crank was left untouched... 1200cc of redrilled injectors too

That's Hypergear's car.

Easily controlled by a decent ECU, if WMI runs out lower boost & drop timing.. when WMI is available increase boost & increase timing. Another work around is have your WMI cut off connected to your boost controller's valve OR power, so when there's no WMI available just run gate pressure and with your ECU's timing map only have strong timing at high boost areas when WMI is activated and sedate timing in low boost areas when there's no WMI. I still reckon a flex tune is the way to go, I'm running E85 with a flex tune. It's great drove to the track with E85, raced it, drove home on E40. Less shit to fail than WMI. Even Nistune supports flex now, and it does it quite well.

Hallos, I have 1x R33 S2 Coilpack Harness (the harness that connects to your 6x coilpacks into the engine loom). Ok condition, 1x clip on Coil 2 is broken, however the plug itself isn't broken. Works fine, holds fine. Price: 6x Pack of ok beer, no VB or Fosters or XXXX, Blonde is good, James Squire is better Location: Canley Vale, NSW OR Milsons Point, NSW Contact: Here OR PM

BUMP! This will fit: R31 R32 R33 R34 VL

correct, unless you're constantly spraying WMI lol

I would go 4" inch exhaust and plumb back the external if you're trying to go for the semi legal route. Also none of the off the shelf intercooler kits will cut it. I would be going for at least a 100mm China intercooler or if money permits a 100mm Plazmaman Pro Series intercooler which are assembled in house at their factory. Your IAT will shoot through the roof with those off the shelf kits. If E85 is out of the question, go for WMI. To get 400kW on A small turbo, especially on A 2.5L with 98 would be very hard to achieve.

didn't some kid in a S15 come out sideways and hit a tree? **edit that was down shift

exhaust too small, unless you go external & screamer you'll need WMI with that turbo, I doubt you'll get anywhere near 400kW on 98 FMIC would be a restriction too, IAT will also shoot through the roof

alright, will be doing that before the next track day Thanks for everyone's help... Last one, ARP or ARP2000?

Yeah but make a perfect 98 tune, then all you do is interpolate between the E85 3D map based on the ethanol content. I drove home on about E40.. got mad economy too, did 187km on 20L

sounds like a plan, because I'm not making stupid power with this car is it worth getting the ARP2000 instead of the normal ARP? Just to confirm, neither of the ARP or ARP2000 studs require retapping the block? (yes I've searched, but just to be sure).

I was thinking an used RB25DET NEO motor.. those things are fantastic, makes 400kW without a sweat.

RB25DET NEO seems economical hahaha.... Well it did hold up pretty good at 1.6bar, only started spewing coolant like after lunch. The rest of the afternoon, kept it running at 1.3bar and my mate actually did 12 laps with the car and came back with still same amount of coolant. So I'm hoping there wasn't too "much" damage done. Good science experiment for me hahaha...

But most ECUs have a failsafe, so if the ethanol sensor fails then assume ethanol content is 0% or whatever you set it as. I'm running a flex sensor now too, drove to Wakefield yesterday with four jerry cans. After the track day, drove to 7-11 and filled up with 98 and drove home. And unrelated, I chopped two R34 GT-Rs down the straight at Wakefield...

sigh.... weighing up options now: Be sensible and run less boost Be a tight wad and apply more torque to factory studs Just replace with ARP headstuds New motor