Dose Pipe Sutututu

attached is a pretty sedate map (which is heaps nicer than the factory Adaptronic map)... of course don't use this map and thrash you car expecting it to be perfect.... USE AT YOUR OWN RISK... It's for stock injectors and other stock stuff and a Hypergear SS2.. of course you can use it for other turbos but best to drive the car off boost till you see your favourite tuner that knows how to use an adaptronic ECU & software.. make sure you learn the TPS at 0% and 100% as each car is set differently.. then check your base timing, make sure it's synced at 15. Stock Injectors on 98: http://www.adaptronic.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=5753.0

more springs

unplug CAS is what 99% of the SAU community does.. the other 1% might YOLO and just start the car then crack the rev limiter lol

here's some more R33 vs. SS2 love, but this one is externally gated - had to turn down the boost to 1.3bar during the day as the head was lifting at 1.6bar LOL

the map I put together should be ok for a standard turbo, however best to pull off about 2~3 degrees around 0.8 bar to be safe... the base adaptronic map is only for starting your car and rolling it to the tuner haha.. it's really rough, whereas a Haltech map is more similar to a factory timing map. I based my map on the Haltech map with a mixture of the Nistune rom.

SOLD!

^ and I have a map you can use with your stock injectors, and a hypergear turbo which is good up to 1 bar (maxes out injectors) lol

^ pry the grey plastic retainer from the top side (where you see the pins).. then you can use a small jeweler flat head and push down the pins and eventually they will slide out along with the rear seal.

& launch, reading on the forum it's ignition cut too for the bang bang

Run the lowest as possible, install the OEM wastegate if you can - at least the car will be drivable and not hit TP Load cut aka R&R.

brah reset the farking thing, I'll setup a base map for you so the car is drivable... tits for all

turn the boost down

S1 (with airbag) vs S2 with airbag is very different. S1 has the SRS module built into the wheel where as most (not all) S2 has the SRS module under the centre console. If you want a S2 wheel, perhaps get a 180SX Type-X wheel as it uses the same setup as the older S1 with airbag.

At the end of the day tuner's see it as intellectual property and prefer not to share their tunes, similar can be said about euro cars. All the tune files are encrypted and tuning shops push encrypted tunes into their customer cars (if using the stock ECU). But for a tuner to demand that kind of money, just bring it to another shop get them to reset the ECU, load up a similar tune and tweak it to suit your mods. Or what ECU and mods do you have? just reset the farking thing and I can put together base map for you to get the car drivable and to the shops to buy a slab of beer.

GONE! Swapped it for floor mats LOL

Another update, got 1m13.01s according to Q-Starz and managed 195.3km/h down the main straight. I really need coilovers LOL

go E85 and a flex setup man... Haltech or Adaptronic ECU will be tits.

sexy, reminds me of my old LP2 Midnight Purple 180SX

If you follow the water line, it mates to a rubber hose behind the head.. it's a slart to get to, but you'll manage... if your hands are too big, you can loosen the gearbox mount & tailshaft bracket and jack up the gearbox - this gives you another 1cm of clearance (that's what I did to get to it)... I think on the R34 NEO motors however it's a metal line all round. On the R33 RB25 and R32 RB20DET it's a stupid rubber hoses with a spring clip.

car runs stock box, stock gearbox, stock head, stock cams.. just has stiffer valve springs and stock cams lol. $80k my arse.. just has forged pistons and rods, even the crank was left untouched... 1200cc of redrilled injectors too

That's Hypergear's car.

Easily controlled by a decent ECU, if WMI runs out lower boost & drop timing.. when WMI is available increase boost & increase timing. Another work around is have your WMI cut off connected to your boost controller's valve OR power, so when there's no WMI available just run gate pressure and with your ECU's timing map only have strong timing at high boost areas when WMI is activated and sedate timing in low boost areas when there's no WMI. I still reckon a flex tune is the way to go, I'm running E85 with a flex tune. It's great drove to the track with E85, raced it, drove home on E40. Less shit to fail than WMI. Even Nistune supports flex now, and it does it quite well.

Hallos, I have 1x R33 S2 Coilpack Harness (the harness that connects to your 6x coilpacks into the engine loom). Ok condition, 1x clip on Coil 2 is broken, however the plug itself isn't broken. Works fine, holds fine. Price: 6x Pack of ok beer, no VB or Fosters or XXXX, Blonde is good, James Squire is better Location: Canley Vale, NSW OR Milsons Point, NSW Contact: Here OR PM

BUMP! This will fit: R31 R32 R33 R34 VL

correct, unless you're constantly spraying WMI lol