Dose Pipe Sutututu

chance there's too much fuel in the cranking table vs. water temp.. you would need to reduce it OR there's not enough fuel in the post start table.

Nitto INVO tyres aren't too bad in the wet either and provide decent dry weather grip.. Great daily tyres IMO and not too noisy. At the same time, perhaps look at lightly shimming up the diff OR just going with a new mechanical diff. I find the stock VLSD likes to single peg on days, it's very temperamental like a female.

wtf.. there are two threads asking the same shit

gearbox would also need some work

hahahaha MORE BOOST yes lazy, inefficient way of tuning but at least you won't grenade stuff... on 98RON it's not such a smart idea as your EGTs will go through the roof and you'll end up melting stuff on the hotside, include exhaust valves.

and it coughs when it's too rich... and if it's too rich it will knock and if it's too lean it will just misfire and AFRs aren't that important with E85 and you can happily cruise leaner than stoich with no dramas E85 is awesome, minus the crappy economy I've got 14 degrees advance at 3900rpm at 1.6bar, it then slowly climbs to 16 degrees by 5100rpm and then finishes up at 19 degrees at 7500rpm Probably could take more as my exhaust manifold started to glow on a long pull.

just buy a premodded R33, makes life so much easier I should have done that, but I thought building it would be fun.. I lost motivation half way and the car was on jack stands for 2 months.

before/after same shit.. anymore the ECU will just retard timing once the boost comes on...

this is why RB26 owners (that have deep pockets) end up retrofitting VCT OR HKS V-CAM onto their heads.. It's not about overall power, it's about usable power... I definitely prefer my turbo on full noise at 4000rpm instead of 4500rpm (making up numbers here).. but if you go through Hypergear's thread you will see similar turbos produce similar power levels on both RB25 & RB26 motors and the only difference is the lag. Yes the RB26 is 0.1L different, but I would prefer VCT any day of the week.

RB26DETT = lag, I prefer VCT

560cc R35 injectors are so small, if you're going to that effort might as well give yourself headroom. I'm running 875cc at stock base pressure and hitting 87% duty cycle already and making only 315kW on a modest dyno

The stock gauge is not in PSI, that 7 you're reading is 1 bar

Hallos, Item 1: R33 GTS-t Stock Airbox & Snorkel Pry: $100 Condition: Goose, bottom left corner shaved a little to fit Plazmaman piping Item 2: Apexi Panel Filter & Original Packaging Pry: $50 Condition: Goose, very clean - minimal usage. Comes with packaging too, #strongresalevalue Item 3: R33 GTS-t Stock Rubber Intake Pry: $10 Condition: Goose, no borken, no cracks Item 4: Alloy Bung Pry: $10 Condition: Goose, good for block off stock BOV at either rubber intake end OR where the return pipe is Special Pry: Items 1+2 = $120 Items 3+4 = $20 Items 1+2+3+4 = $100 Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166 Contact: Here or PM Item 1: R33 GTS-t Stock Airbox & Snorkel Pry: $100 $80 Condition: Goose, bottom left corner shaved a little to fit Plazmaman piping Cheers, Johnny

gap it down to 0.6mm

Yeah that's because you're using the factor IAT sensor which is on the plenum.. it's a slow lazy sensor. I've got a GM IAT sensor right next to the cold side of the FMIC.. even on one hit in 2nd or 3rd I can see the temperature move 10 degrees... on the dyno it went from 22 degrees to 50 degrees when the car hit redline

They aren't designed to be oiled and they won't filter much, even a ling long dim sim 3A Racing filter, filters better

leave it there it's fine, I threw mine in the bin and removed all excess homo hoses

it assumes a person that is installing it has some common sense.. this means you will need to connect it to your ignition +ve & fuse it, alternatively (I've seen it done with other workshops).. connect it to your headunit's ACC power without a fuse.. as you're essentially using the headunit's 10 amp fuse..stupid option because when you leave your keys in ACC to listen to music your EBC is on.

not to be a dick, but why would someone pay for something that's hollow and triple the price of a Whiteline item?

What you guys also need to factor in is the intake air temp. Stock might flow fine, but it may not cool that well. This potentially is something that would limit power being made.

0.005kW by not using a silicone bend ummkay, that way you won't loose power from the silicone bend expanding ever so slightly. I use a 4 ply silicone bend, hasn't exploded and get trashed on the track every few months. It regularly sees over 1.5bar through it too.

Ize did foe unit but sarked at engrish

don't you know you need to unlock them for stage 4!!! come on man

Is the surge tank so the car is more "race pedigree"? You don't need a surge tank man, the S14/15 fuel tanks are better designed than the S13 fuel tank thus you won't have issues with fuel sloshing about and leaning out. If you really want the surge tank just for some rice at those jdmst meets, get those new AI surge tanks that support dual internal pumps with fuel safe bulk heads and fittings that sit ontop. Many photos will get taken of it Heard your racing pedigree clutch had issues...

A 90 degree silicon bend