Dose Pipe Sutututu

Just sell it and buy something more modern.. but the time you buy the cable and/or datalogit etc.. blah blah blah and find out you need inputs for your wideband/flex sensor/secondary speed sensor you'll just end up selling it anyway

sounds like you got some horrid dim sim soy chicken with fried rice special turbo.. just do yourself a favour and buy a Hypergear turbo for Christmas At least you'll have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year with better response down low lol

Nismo GT is great, allows you to adjust the torque by popping out the RHS Axel stub. I used the non GT version before and it was great and npw on a KAAZ 2 way which I find pretty aggressive compared to the Nismo. Then again the nismo was worn (used diff)

Sounds like a laggy car

the QFM pads are good for street use, and around windy roads.. however they are not what people say a cross over pad for street and light track, etc. At Wakefield, after the 1st lap you can feel it fading away, by the 2nd lap you can really feel it.. after the 4th lap it feels like you've got no brakes at all. However, I have a mate in a S15 Silvia and it seems to hold up ok. After we both changed to Project MU HC+, the difference was day & night on the track... just one thing though, they squeal like crazy!

I found that Bendix Ultimate & Project MU HC+ chewed rotors the quickest.. I would say Intima SR & QFM A1RM are about on par... in 2nd place As you increase brake pad performance, the rotors suffer.

add some octane booster gives you free boost

EBC is light years ahead of a gauge & a dinosaur t-piece. 20k car and using a 20$ t-piece/bleed whatever it is.. kinda silly if you ask me

49.32 psi

I was referring to base timing, with the TPS & IACV disconnected and the idle adjusted the base timing must be set to 15 degrees

IBTL haha... I run 1.6bar on a stock motor, with stock cams, with stock manifold and stock plenum

My review was about everyday normal brake pads, as the corolla isn't a performance car, nor does it see the track.. thus I thought I would use Bendix CT pads instead of the usual ADB pads I use. As per my posts, I paid double the price for Bendix pads than performed worse than $30 ADB brake pads. Looks like the conversation has digressed a little. Anyhow this is what I've used listed from best to worse in different cars. Project MU HC+ / squeals heaps but braking is awesome Intima SR / pretty quiet decent braking and progressive fade on the track Project MU NS / pretty quiet decent braking and progressive fade on the track QFM A1RM / squeals a little and ok for a few laps then it fades pretty damn quick but stops for street use Bendix Ultimate / squeals, chews rotors, loads of dust but stops for street use RDA standard pads / normal pads, bites better than OEM no noise ADB standard pads / normal pads, bites better than OEM no noise, a little bit of fade going through windy roads Bendix Advance / normals pads, bites better than OEM, some squeal fades like an OEM pad Bendix CT / normal pad, absolute garbage, performs worse than OEM pads, performs worse than pads half the price.. would not buy.. have sent a complaint to Bendix and also their facebook page.. will be changing out pads this weekend before someone dies.

and as I mentioned, check your base timing.. it could be off so when you hit lower load cells, with ridiculously low timing and there's fuel in the exhaust it's going "poww"

Yeah man, I've always used cheap adb pads on the missus Corolla because it's only ever used to go around town.. rarely on the highway. However in Jan we are going to Kangeroo Valley and I've sold my Accord so I thought I'll use better pads.. How wrong was I... I'm going to put Ferodo pads in soon, just need to buy them.

On the missus corolla not my boat... Thought I would be less of a tight arse and put slightly better pads on her car instead of the usual adb brand I always buy for half the price. So off I went to my local spares shop and bought a set of Bendix CT pads. Being almost double the price of adb pads you would think they are better. At the same time waited for them to machine the rotors as there was a little lip. Went home, did the usual install and thought I would bleed the brakes too since the car has hit 100000km, fluid was still pretty good and no bubbles. So time to bed them in, as normal start slow and work up on the speed. Let them cool down and drove around the block for several minutes then went to test them. They are horrific, worse than yum cha ling long pads. I can barely even stop abruptly. Same experience with my mate and his Mazda 3. Same pads, same pathetic poor braking abilities. Looks like Bendix has gotten worse, their old Bendix General pads were great in daily use now with the release of their CT range I'm horrified. Bendix, you've lost another customer (albeit I never use them on the skyline, boat gets Project MU only )

Stock and unmodified BOV will hold 1 bar no worries. I'm assuming your car is stock, which I believe. Just leave it alone.

Check your base timing

Cops will even write you a defect notice for factory EVO intercooler (yes that has happened to my mate)

They still can defect you

The tread blocks like to crack, I have a crack in mine.. so does my mate's car.. If you google, you'll find a few.. here's an example: http://www.cliosport.net/threads/federal-rsr-595-tyres-falling-to-pieces.667455/ http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=79006&page=2 http://www.pistonheads.com/Gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=18&t=1177101&nmt=Another+Track+Day+tyre+question However great POV spec tyre that is streetable and then ok-ish on the track... however for the same price(ish) I would go Nitto NT-05

2nd Fail Chinese t3/t4 turbo

^ you should be able to run a bucket load more timing, also being a RB25DET the timing map has a hump before it decays timing in the vacuum area. This is evident in the factory Nistune, Haltech & PowerFC maps. Other ECU manufacturers just put anything in there to make it run.. I based my map off the Haltech factory map to get the correct timing curve in the vacuum area and made my own tweaks to improve the torque & driveability. Here's a factory Haltech Map for Unleaded Fuel (for E85 you could easily just add 5 degrees over the top and it would still be safe):

here we go E85 Hypergear SS2 0.82 Housing 45mm Turbosmart Hypergate External Gate off Turbo Housing Stock Manifold 1.6bar boost errrr day Made 343kW on Virtual Dyno (will hire a dyno one day when I have time and finalise the tune)

I'll post up some updated ones tonight, added even more timing up top

I posted up a few of my maps on the hypergear thread