Dose Pipe Sutututu

true story rant... Took the advice of many and bought a set of Five-O Motorsport Redrilled High Flowed Garbage Side Feed Injectors. They were absolutely shit.. was unable to get a stable idle at the factory idle RPM and unable to get my AFRs to stoich.. Dead times they provided were absolutely rubbish, had to make up my own table to get the car to idle. Even so, cruise was garbage, economy was garbage.. spray pattern? what pattern? Anyhow, sold them on Gumtree - then spend $800 and converted to top feed Siemens DEKA IV injectors.. was awesome. I now cruise at 17.2 AFR and it runs perfect... Moral of the story, side feeds are gay.

FWIW (from my own experiences) - after switching over to E85 (still using stock lines) within 2 tanks I decide to change filter... Being the bored and inquisitive person that I am, I cracked it open.. it was filthy.. looked like nearly coffee coloured and had some gunk in it. Then popped in a new filter, several tanks later I decided to change to all Gates barricade lines because I was feeling rich LOL... then changed my filter again.. cracked open the 2nd filter and it was filthy again but not as much as the first one. The car is probably due for another filter change, I'll report back. Note: I only use Ryco Z201 filters as I'm cheap and can't afford OEM Nissan ones.

^ lol... like I said he modded his chassis..

He modded his chassis

Still for sale, however now car runs a set of Siemens DEKA IV 875cc 40mm Injectors with a Top Feed Rail.. not to mention motor now happily ingests 23psi This is me taking it easy:

spotted an asian chic in a dark (black?) R34 GT-t coming down the Boulevard, Fairfield.. gave her a wave and she looked at me asif I was a retard lol..

E85 too

I like vagina

Buy a real ECU

BUMP FREE WALL UNIT, WILL THROW IN A COLD ONE TOO DRYER IS GONE

Unplug TPS, unplug IACV.. then make sure your idle is screwed in at 650rpm (as per recommendation for a RB25DET).. then set timing at 15 degrees BTDC. Car will run ok.. but wouldn't be nice to run.. you could blanket an additional 2 degrees on top to make your base timing 17 degrees. It's a NA so should be fine (of course check for audible knock).

even with stock plenum you can easily mount top feed injectors & rail without any shaving of anything sidefeeds are gay.. they work ok.. but on a SR20.. I find with RB25s they are gay, many gays

Sounds very crazy but how rich is your car running on noise? Remember E85 doesn't like being too rich. If you convert to gasoline scaling E85 likes to burn around 12.2 to 12.7. I did have issues with my shitbox misfiring completely when my AFRs dropped below 11.6 another crazy thing about E85 if you run very low timing it will also miss. This was what I've read and also experienced when I was tuning my car. I used 98 timing on E85 at high boost as a starting point when I was tuning and it would misfire. Now I've ironed out those issues, I've got a freaking voltage drop problem lol

I will certainly investigate that, probably do it at the same time when I do my flex setup as I need to crack open the ECU cover to utilise the AUX input/output connector I've already ditched the FPCM & also the factory relay.. I'm taking the trigger directly of the ECU (trigger that goes to the factory relay).. so even if the FPCM & the factory relay is cactus my fuel pump will still be fed with power. I notice many people use the output of their factory relay to trigger their external relay. Probably not the best way to do it, as if the factory relay dies.. you're up shit creek lol... I also dream of Haltech as it's launch control is light years ahead of the Adaptronic

^ you're lucky it was just the power cabling.. I tested it on the alternator itself and the voltage was fluctuating... I'm guessing it's tired, it is an 18 year old car with probably 400 000km on in after everyone having a go at winding back the odometer lol

You sound offended, I apologise if I've offended you - however my intent was not to. I am speaking from experience, also my close mates all have had the same experience as I have.

Followed your advice, did a probe when cold voltage was about ~13.6 and down to ~13.2 when I revved it.. Tried it again when the car was hot (after a drive to the shops & back) voltage was around ~13 on idle and dropped to about ~12.8 when I revved it. This is pretty consistent to the drop I've logged from my ECU. Now to waste more money

sure thing You've seen my car (I think).. it's not that low. The rears have about a 2cm gap to the guard and the fronts about 3cm.

buy one off the internats.. then take out your entire diff.. bring it to a diff specialist to fit your diff centre.. go home, break it in (according to the instructions) and then rip skids.

I have exactly 1x output available lol... Let's see if I'm bored, I might give it a crack... thinking of setting up flex on the car, however I don't like the way Adaptronic does it..

^ I use a pov spec Adaptronic ECU can't see myself buying a Haltech that cost as much as my rusty R33 haha

hahaha I really wanted a low voltage step down! hey wasn't a poorly wiring arrangement, the only flaw in my setup was relying on the factory FPCM to give a signal to my relay to route the ground into the resistor pack and once a signal was given from the FPCM the relay would ground off the negative feed into the pump. Positive side runs into another 40AMP relay which goes into a 30AMP fuse into the battery.

get with the times saved my motor on the track last time, car cut out then gave it another hit on the straight and realised.. fuarkkk my AFRs are lean as..! turned out my FPCM died so my dual relay setup with my own resistor pack was only giving my pump ~10V, then earthed the 2nd relay and away I went again till I snapped my front anti roll bar link LOL

^ thus you should setup AFR lean protection with your ECU

Hmmm don't think that would work for me. Thanks anyway! I run a catch can but like it all plumbed back.