Dose Pipe Sutututu

I've seen 3x R33s (including mine) do the same thing.. usually happens with a faulty narrowband O2.. with a wideband sniffer on the end, the AFRs (when warm) dropped to about 11:1 and bouced all over the shop.. then when the factory O2 was unplugged it would jump to about 13 on idle. Just an observation.

I learnt reading engineering text books and through trial and error.. have been burnt by a tuner and a workshop before so I decided to learn this crap myself. Nothing hard, if you were good at physics at school - this shit is a walk in the park I'm fluent in Nistune, Adaptronic & PowerFC.. have used Haltech here and there to touch up a tune. The Upload button is for pushing tune files to your ECU, when you're playing around with your tune there's no need to press the upload button.. Just hit BURN every time you make a change, because even if you stall your car and start it again bye bye changes!

Make sure it's set on Intermediate OR Advance mode, if not the tables won't show. There's a table called 'After Start Enrich coefficient'.. take note of your water temp logged with Nistune and go to the respective cell(s) and press page up to increase fuel, there's no real formula around this except hit and miss. If you add too much fuel, the car will splutter once it adds in fuel. Also, another table you need to increase is 'Crank Enrich', I find when installing new injectors it's best to adjust this table first till the car starts on it's own and splutters.. then adjust the 'After Start Enrich' table till she's all good. I find the standard curve is good enough.. just highlight all the cells across the temperature axle and use Page Up to increase the value... Notes: Save your original tune file Once you've made changes, hit the burn button straight away

^ not enough post crank fuel.. that's not really an injector issue

yeah, but not backyard style flap disc sander and drill press style... the five 0 ones are a little more advanced than that.. the heads have been refitted and there's a different type of pintle cap that promotes some form of usable spray pattern rather than a garden hose into the motor. I've recently fitted and road tuned a S15 with 1000cc Five O injectors, idles, starts (cold/hot) runs like factory.. just 1x small nuisance, it won't idle on stoich.. best I got was 14.2 but once on E85 happy days.. I'm getting a set of 1200cc delivered today, I'll tell you how it goes

So much effort, so much typing.. 1000cc Five O remanufactured new JECS Side Feed injectors work and they're cost effective when compared to all the rail mods, external fuel regs, connectors and all sorts of other stuff. They work well, car idles well, car starts well, all sorts of well, stoich on cruise & idle. They are swap & GO, and not to mention if you're running E85 or blends of sort you require more fuel on idle than 98RON so you'll be in the linear zone of the injector anyhow. You're complicating shit once again Adrian

UPDATED PRICE LIST $150 NPC 400kW Clutch Plate - Barely Used, worn 0.03mm / Will fit any RB $180 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs for RB25DET S1.2/2, Stagea Non-Neo RB25DET (7x coils) - happily held 1.2 bar of boost $10 Alloy BOV Bung/Plug $10 110L/h Fuel Pump that fits in stock position SOLD 2x Falken Azensis RT615 225/35/17 with around 3mm tread $40 BRAND NEW Braided Oil Feed Line for Stock RB25DET Turbo $40 BRAND NEW OEM Rear Main Seal & Spigot Bush for RB2xDExx motors - 12279-5L310 $200 RB25DET S2 Turbo - no shaft play, exhaust wheel in one piece $20 RB25DET S2 Factory dump pipe & down pipe $20 RB25DET/RB20DET Factory Manifold $40 RB25DET S2 AFM $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Blow Off Valve $10 RB25DET S2 Radiator $10 RB25DET S2 Fan Clutch $50 RB25DET S2 Stock SMIC & Pipes SOLD $200 RB25DET S2 ABS Diff - minus ABS sensor $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars (front & back) $20 RB25DET S2 Rubber Intake Pipe $10 RB25DET S2 handbrake boot & gear boot (1x OEM 1x Aftermarket) $10 RB25DET S2 HICAS Rack & Tie Rods $10 SR20DET S15 Radiator

If not try disconnect the factory o2 and see if it stops

Go through the RB25 dyno thread bro, shit loads of information there.

why not just save the cash and do a proper twin scroll setup? that would be a smarter solution

Awesome cheap there, Ryco filters are all under 10$ Fuark paying $20+ for them

Mad grass cutting lol

Mekong Spares in Canley Vale, NSW 2166 however, this was about 4 years ago - haven't needed to machine my current rotors

really? always paid that price and $50 to machine fly wheels

$100 delivered? Is it black and comes with everything?

Does the car ever hit the track? If no, - Machine rotors $7 per side - Use good pads - Flush brake fluid Spend the rest of your money on beer & strippers. Slotted rotors are gaids.. they crack and wear your pads.. If you want mad brakes, upgrade to evo brembos with STOCK unslotted Evo X rotors.. happy days.

BUMP $180

I usually keep it stoich anything in vacuum up to atmospheric pressure (0.0psi), on cruise I'm a little cheeky and let it sit at 15.2 Best I've gotten out of 50L was 540km with the occasional squirt when I drove to Foster and back on 98 with the AC on most parts

Exactly what happens, I love tits.

isn't it just common sense? bigger injectors on a factory ECU programmed to control factory sized injectors.. a simple analogy could be a garden hose water gun Mist Setting (factory injectors) - press trigger half way, just the right amount of water for plants Retard Jet Setting (larger injectors) - press trigger half way, water sprays everywhere hits neighbour and her shirt is now see through.

^ hey mate, I disconnected my narrowband in the engine bay and spliced the narrowband output from the innovate straight into the ECU harness. There's no need to hook up the sensor ground and it worked really well. Not the first car I've done it to also, one thing I've noticed is that it "appears" to hit stoichiometric much quicker than factory narrowband O2s Give it a crack you can't go wrong, in saying that I'm now running full closed loop fuel control with my wideband (running stand alone now woots)

Ricky's awesome man, replaces parts & lets me pull things off cars myself... He's pretty busy these days, however hopefully once the shop is up he will attend to everyone

or strippers

are you in sydney? I can help OR just drop it off at a tuning shop

but you'll need the PLMS cable & license.. the free one is stupid, it times out and after a few connects makes you register.