Dose Pipe Sutututu

Loads of torque kills them

Just put more boost into the motor, will make up for the low compression

Sounds silly, sounds like they're going to plug up a Bee R and it also sounds like you didn't read my post

not enough 2 stroke oil?

leggo... speed off the streets.. iz take annual leave..

Not sure what the point of this thread is?

Well let's say if the charged air going into the motor is 25 degrees Celsius and the motor will happily take 14 degrees of timing, and for each 1 degree of timing the power increase is exponentially decaying in growth then you would assume the motor is near max torque/power for that given load point & rpm. However say when the intake charge temp is now 45 degrees Celsius due to heat soak and ambient air temp.. the motor now perhaps could only take 11 degrees of timing for that given load point and rpm for that temperature... the 4 degrees lacking is compensated in the intake air temp ignition trim table.. So now say if you're not running one.. regardless of the intake air temp.. once the motor hits that load point & rpm it will just ignite the fuel at 14 degrees before top dead centre.. and yes it would very unhappy. Not to mention the car would be pig rich.. oxygen density is lower at that temperature and the same amount of fuel is injected resulting in a pretty rich burn. Hope that makes sense?

let's go to a speed off the streets session at wakie park..

problem... on a dyno the ambient air is cool and your runs are not back to back... on the track the ambient air isn't cool and you're on/off the throttle.. this means your IAT could go from 20 to 50 degrees and back down to 25 for example.. a big no no... however if your tuner is switched on (which I hope so) he/she will tune the car not on it's limits so when it does get hot it the motor won't have a spaz attack and knock off its tits.. it will just run extremely rich. Ideally, as IAT increase timing decreases as well as fuel.. and as IAT decreases, fuel increases and timing is brought back to what it has been dialled as on the dyno... if you want you could add more timing as the IAT gets even cooler

can't afford, just saying LOL but I'm going to the JDMYard track day next Tuesday... probably be one of the fastest car on the straight and the slowest car around the corners LOL...

you said wakie? WHENNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN

Do you have a laptop? I can scale a map for you to load up with the larger injectors. I'm assuming you're using the Haltech's onboard MAP sensor too?

DOOOOOOOOOO IT, less noise = better

And a new turbo too, the stock turbo is rubbish

how's your fuel pressure though? I'm hitting 97% with 875cc injectors on E85 with about 1.6bar boost - however running 3bar base pressure. Newer injectors don't mind more fuel pressure, so once I need more "injector" I will bump the base pressure.

thanks Terry, will do next month

I would personally buy one new if you can't see it in person, heck I'll even throw in the Hypergear turbo idea... probably matched performance and new for a little more than that 2nd hand turbo... not to mention awesome support & warranty

Any forum members here that's keen to weld a 1.75" resonator & a 30/45 degree bend to my screamer pipe? Had an appointment with Hax and he decided not to show up at his shop... cbf going back. I know his work is immaculate but the guy never picks up his phone and tells me to come on a time/day and doesn't show.

try something like this: http://www.nofrillscaraudio.com.au/jvc-kw-v10-6-1-multimedia-dvd-car-stereo

ohhkay.. I dew yew breast pry... $110 pick up - it's brand newwwwwwwwwwww

spotted LONGZ R34 GT-R at Repco

Just as a sanity check, see if there's a massive voltage drop once hour AC is running. That could be a possible reason to why your combustion is leaning out. Also it's advisable to run O2 feedback on to allow the ECU to trim the fuel mixtures to stoich on idle and cruise with/without the AC on. If your factory narrowband is dead just use your wideband and connect the "simulated" narrowband direct to the harness. Works a treat!

Install it after your FMIC however don't install it in the engine bay as it will heat soak. On the ECU you will need to run a wire from pin 36 to the sensor and another wire from pin 30 (sensor ground) to the intake air temp sensor. Do not ground it off on the chasis, it will read wrong. Series 2 ECU will have something connected to pin 36 but just chop it. I believe it's the TPS close position which is useless. On a RB26DETT harness it's used also as the IAT

There's a table that lists the temp and the enrichment in both negative and positive. When the charged air is more cold more fuel required as the air is more dense. Without adding more fuel your combustion will burn leaner and reverse goes for warmer air, it's less dense so you need less fuel. Very crucial sensor for a MAP car

Interesting, do as you please