Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Members
  • Posts

    15,496
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    371
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. or just a basic MAC valve and let your ECU control it (if it has the capabilities), there's no way a bleed valve can surpass an EBC which runs in close loop oscillating to control the boost.
  2. I believe this is what you're looking for, I created this map using a mixture of Haltech's base map and the factory RB25DET map from Nistune Also here's a Haltech base map
  3. Heya Skyriners, Pulled these off my car to replace with solid arms #becauseracecar so they're up for sale. They have some adjustment (more than enough for a daily/street car). Will fit RWD S14/15 R33/R34 but NOT GT-R Happy to swap for a case of beer OR some cash, whatever makes you hard. Replace those leaky caster rods NOW! Location: Canley Vale, NSW 2166 Price: $30 Contacts: PM or Reply Here
  4. Or Adaptronic, however be careful of who you bring it too. Some tuners have no idea how to utilise them properly. I've seen a couple of tunes that were ghastly. If you don't need all the inputs,outputs of a full standalone. A Nistune modded ECU is amazing for the money, not mention it now supports a flex sensor input. Also there's a person working on converting it to running a MAP sensor. When that day happens, for the money nistune will be awesome for the money.
  5. LOL, bastard beer economy works well on SAU I've done all sorts of car related stuff for beer, even traded car parts for beer lol
  6. gee.. if you were in Sydney I would have done it for a slab of beer + cost of coils
  7. Stock cams are the best for that, longer duration cams will shift the power/torque towards the higher end of the RPM range.
  8. Saturday, spotted KNG33R FAT33R flashed my headlights and both gave me a weird look LOL
  9. (not sure how related this is to you but here goes) do you have access to a wideband o2? back in the days when I knew nothing about cars (10+ yrs ago).. I had the same issue with my RB20DET, a mate that was doing engineering at uni suggested I hooked up his wideband. Ended up finding out the car was running lean in general when it was in vacuum, turned out my injectors were all clogged. As soon as got all the injectors serviced, new o-rings put in the car started easily and idle was back to stoich.
  10. very cheeky indeed, similar to how OEM cars get away with noise. If you crack open a stock EVO muffler it uses a little flapper to control noise when doodling around town.
  11. I have, I threw my QFM A1RMs into the bin, I'm on "squeal monsters" now (Project MU HC+)
  12. did you disconnect the coolant sensor for the ECU or the one for the dash? the ECU one has 2-wires not 1...
  13. I no haz 4WD lik yew... I like Wakefield because if I lose control, I just eat grass LOL below, epic brake fade !
  14. and awesome pre/post sales support at any weird hour of the day
  15. would the workshop that cocked up the head be liable for the damages he/she caused? If they know their RBs so well and they cocked it up so badly, surely they would just repair/replace the head so they don't get a bad rep right?
  16. If you don't mind running E85, that would be a good option as you can run a bucket load more timing giving you all that early torque & mid range you want.
  17. When this happens, try and unplug your water temp sensor on the coolant neck. It's the 2x wire one that goes to the ECU, see if that helps or unplug the AFM It could be when your car is warm/warmer the cranking enrichment isn't enough to get the motor going.. it could be a mixture of things, dirty/faulty AFM, faulty FPR, dirty injectors, etc.
  18. I might grow some balls and go to: August 24th Trackday at SMSP south circuit, always scared of concrete walls
  19. try using brake shim grease, it's red in colour but I can't remember the name.. apply that to the shims & backside of the pad.. usually stops squealing for a while.. however once you hit the track it will squeal again.. If it's purely a street car, I believe you might be able to get away with it
  20. hahaha thanks mate, I was close enough
  21. Standard boost gauge isn't a lying piece of shit ... it reads in torr / mmHg, which many mistaken for psi. 7x100 mmHg = 1bar OR 14.5psi, so if you're seeing it at 3.5 x100 on your dash then happy days.
  22. You could even use the stock R33 oil pressure sensor.. it contains a sensor & a switch for the dash. The switch could be wired into the ECU, so when there's no pressure the ECU can cut spark/fuel instead of using a pressure reading... downside to this method is say the car has low pressure but still enough oil pressure the ECU will still allow the motor to run.
  23. 15W50 Penrite Racing #becausewananberacecar
×
×
  • Create New...