Dose Pipe Sutututu

Sound like too much base duty cycle before it comes on noise. If you have a laptop, try reducing the base duty cycle

mixture is too rich to ignite, not enough oxygen even if you arc power wires inside a fuel tank it still won't ignite

on a non neo you are required to fit an injector boss, which is just a metal spacer/o ring combo allowing the injector to be seated correctly. Please don't go grinding anything.

what is wrong with the motor? I'm assuming you have a RB25DET NEO, they're pretty solid motors and will spin 400kW ish without any real drama. There are a few fellas here making stupid numbers on their stock motors and pound them often on the track too

I would retard the CAS if you want to do anything to protect the motor

since you're taking out the radiator and dumping fluid everywhere just put in a new OEM thermostat.. if you're unable to get OEM get the Tridon highflow series.. don't get their normal one.. it doesn't flow enough.

If you've bought one for a GTS-t then it will just drop in here's a guide I wrote a while back http://www.trak-life.com/diy-nissan-skyline-radiator-replacement-upgrade/

stock fan, stock shroud is the best

Are you sure it's a nistune OR just a re-flashed R33 ECU? Because R33 Nistune Type-6 boards are still in prototype and I don't believe they have gone to market yet.. Anyhow, these days you can use a RB20DET ECU with the new feature pack that controls VCT woots

Also if you can't afford an oil cooler at least get a massive radiator... GTS-t Skylines have a water/oil heat exchanger. Those ling long dim sim eBay radiators aren't bad... I've got a Worley one for $170 and it's lasted like 10 track days.

overfill the oil

Could be the nistune falling into the knock map if it's Z32 ECU and the knock sensor mod on the board hasn't been done properly.

Buy a R33 GTR if you want AWD, more economical than what you're planning on doing.

SOLD!

man that's way too much effort haha.... I'll just tap the wiring into the ABS sensor at the front... the rear speed sensor (from gearbox) is already fed back into the ECU.. just need F(RHS + LHS) Just looks fugly if I run even more freaking wires into the engine bay. Knowing Nissan, the wiring colour would be different from the ABS sensor plug to the rear ABS ECU.

what oil are you using in it? I really hope it's proper LSD oil not just gearbox oil like VMX80

Jam a multimeter between your battery terminals and see what voltage you're seeing. Maybe your alternator regulator is playing silly buggers

sell car buy real car is the best option.

I would go even 10 7 on the track, 8 6 on a boat still has too much roll.

^just use Gates Barricade fuel hoses, cheaper than all those wanky braided shit.

Hey All, Hope someone has the wiring diagram for the ABS module for a R33 GTS-t... I've looked everywhere and also downloaded a few service manuals which all are focused purely on the engine and not the electricals themselves. I've found a diagram which shows how the ABS unit is connected theoretically but that's quite useless when determining what wire is what. Finding ABS schematics for GT-R and it's Attesa systems seems to be easy, but from what I've gathered from my visual comparison is that the wiring between the GTS-t and GT-R ABS / Attesa modules are different. This is the GT-R one, when I visually compared this diagram to the ABS module bolted under the HICAS ECU it's quite different for my GTS-t boat. Now you're wondering why the heck do I need this wiring schematic? Well... ever seen a modern car launch with minimum slip and no throttle cut? Yes.. they actually retard timing to reduce torque instead of chopping the throttle which cuts everything. Now, I am planning to connect my front two wheel sensors to my ECU and will be retarding timing based on x % of wheel slip (front vs. rear).. the higher the delta, the more timing is retarded... however not too much retard, because I'll end up with anti lags and bang bang all day instead lol. I did plan to run the wires directly from the ABS sensor to my circuit (converts sine to square waves) to the ECU.. but that seems a touch messy going into the engine bay. So yeah, help me do high 10s down the 1/4 with a stock motor RB25

was a bitch to take mine out.. the casing had rusted into the subframe (I think my car was submerged in the ocean, it's got more rust than a commodore VN)... blow torched it, bashed it, air sawed it, you name it... Eventually got it out, but man it was a mission... getting the subframe bushes in was pretty easy.. just use a large socket and bashed it in with a hammer and some grease.

I'm not sure you understand how a fuel regulator works or that you're having a hard time articulating what you mean lol

Stock reg might get silly if you're running twin pumps into it as there's huge amounts of fuel flowing through it. Even so, I've seen GTRs running the stock reg with twin Bosch pumps going to it without issue

hope you've got arp studs and not reusing the TTY stock bolts.