Dose Pipe Sutututu

RB20DETs are gay, I had one.. SR20DETs non-VCT makes more torque, hectic a SR20DET VCT makes even more torque. I've owned a RB20DET so I can bag them out, they're shit.

DBA HD apparently uses the same material as the DBA 4000 rotors.. without all the fancy homo slots and holes.

nah a M156 with a Weistec bolt on super charger is a better option

hrms... no sure what problems... I track my car often enough, it has a completely stock motor and yet to see it explode.. and it makes a lazy 340kW at the rears. How it drives? I drive it like I stole it, out of corners smashing the limiter.

of course timing would jump up to that much as you move away from the idle RPM. If you Google search a stock RB25DET timing map you'll know what I mean. However with the cas fully retarded I would check if the crank timing marks are aligned with the intake and exhaust pulley.

Don't get slotted rotors, that's my input.

heaps of power for such low boost? first time round I only managed about 310kW with 20 psi. Needed to push it to 24psi to make what I make now and stretch head studs LOL

install a massive dose pipe, hektics. serious note, they're gutless, make crap all torque and don't waste your money modding it. Motor out, donate to a marina as a boat anchor and NEO in.

put in a SR20, be brave like blingcommander from nissansilvia.com

GCG high flows are horrible, they're so laggy.

relays could be fuuccked and not supplying enough current

do you have a proper diff? or running the gay as aids VLSD?

get a Hypergear high flow, will hurt less

I recommend a GTX2863 on E85 A RB20 makes very low torque compared to a SR20 due to firstly the capacity and secondly the stroke. If you say you don't want a lag monster I suggest either a GTX2867 or GTX2863 both of which are avilable in T3 flanges. Have a look at sonic performance, but be prepared to pay more than the motor 4 times for the turbo.

hose to ground dw about can who needs it in 2015?

need a thermostat, if you remove the thermostat you car will run like shit

FPCM only controls the -ve, once you've snipped and earthed your pump the FPCM is bypassed

I think you've got the wrong idea... SSR takes the trigger from the same trigger wire that comes out of the ECU to the relay at the back of the car.... do not use the output of the OEM relay to trigger your SSR because of the OEM relay dies you're f'd.

about 2cm from the top of the shroud to the fan.. with the 52/3mm radiators people usually grind down the flat part of the fan shroud as that contacts with the fan at high RPM pic for reference, see that flat area at the top of the shroud, just trim that off and you'll be fine using a thicker radiator...

pinch off the hose to the aux air control

if you've swap the AFM with the Nistune, and done all that rescale business make sure you change the values to the AFM Low Voltage enrichment, a few cars I've tuned needed this changed as once the car idles the ecu starts dumping in fuel and then the o2 feedback tries to correct it causing awesome hunting

must be Gran Turismo season

I personally have use chemical proof heat shrinks, however when they loosen up with age your wires end up being exposed... Better to use crimps, then slide the hard cover off.. heat up the metal, fill with solder and slide the cover back on. DO NOT BYPASS THE ECU, you need the trigger from the ECU that goes into the OEM fuel pump relay... if you bypass the ECU and your motor stalls, the fuel pump will keep pumping... in the event of an emergency you don't want that especially when fuel leaks are involved and heat.

reducing gap won't fix any detonation issues man

you should hard wire the E85 pump, they drain loads of current! I've gone full boofhead on mine and have run 12ga wire to the fuel lid and to a 40 amp relay with a 30 amp fuse