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mist

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Everything posted by mist

  1. the R32 GTR's oil temp was heading towards 150deg C really fast... the Z33 with the GT-R drive train looked pretty fun, no? the American ver. isn't as good as the separate Jap BMI and Hot Version releases, they cut out too much. But at least there are english subtitles... the machine check is always informative
  2. hey where'd u get the Advan Neovas? I want a set so badly... they're sold everywhere back home overseas, but no one here seems to have the AD07.
  3. i'm not sure about the R34, but if you can't adjust the damper easily (i.e. without removing the parcel shelf) then the EDFC is a godsend. I know several ppl with STi's that buy the Tein Flex with EDFC for precisely this reason... Luckily the R32 has easy access to the rear strut tops suspension and braking mods first is a great way to go 1) Good rubber - buy the best street rubber you can afford, and put a set of semi-slicks on your other set of rims for the track. 2) Good brakes - gotta stop ya? 3) Coilover suspension - race spec if you're set on track use (e.g. APEXi N1 Pro, Zeal Function S6, HKS Hipermax PRO) or a street spec one for a good compromise - e.g. Tein Type HA, Type FLEX. The street spec coilovers, you can set fully soft without messing up the valves. I run JIC FLT-A2 drift coilovers, and I can't run it too soft for this reason. Makes my ride extremely harsh for a daily driver. 4) Suspension tower bars, front AND rear 5) all the suspension arms 6) spot weld the chassis 7) roll cage 8) .... ok i'm getting carried away now heheh. as you said, there's a lot of stuff that you can change, suspension wise. suggest you do the mods slowly, then you can feel the effects of the changes. i know several ppl who just simply went out and bought race spec coilovers cuz 'they're the best' and end up finding the car hard to drive bcuz too many changes at once = unfamiliar car. just do the good rubber and tyres first, then decide based on your usage whether you want coilovers or a good set of springs and dampers (bilstein dampers + eibach springs work a treat). my 2c.
  4. ok, since the unit is set in auto, it's trying to learn I think. when you first set a boost setting, and then go out for a blat, first gear is usually ok / below what u set, then as the load increases (keep your foot flat on the gas, not part throttle acceleration), the unit may overboost, sometimes by a lot (if the gain setting is increased). watch the boost carefully, once it goes past your boost setting with ur foot flat, take your foot off the pedal - turning on the warning function - limiter - would help prevent any damage from overboosting. on the next time you start your car, the boost should be fine, go straight to your setting and hold. thats how i 'taught' the unit on auto mode. better to use the manual mode tho, especially if you plan to run more boost.
  5. i've got the D1 Blitz/URAS edition, should be same functionality wise. Can you give more details re. ur boost settings? i.e. auto/manual, gain, etc...
  6. see the thread in this section of the forums re: Winmax brake pads, that may help
  7. if someone is really keen on just the seats, i will take the trim? just a thought if separating may help ur sale
  8. price drop on LSD $1850 for full kit, bargain.. refer 1st post for details
  9. good to hear your positive review Ned.. i'm gonna run them as my day-to-day brake pads when my Endless SSS wear out and save the NA-Rs for the track. KJ
  10. Falken RT215 are cheap for the level of grip they provide ...but they are street compound tyres, with semi-slick design, not 'R' compound tyres. I used to run Dunlop D01J Formula-R, and the grip level is totally different! The RT215 may not be ideal if you're concerned about wet roads tho... I suggest the Falken ST115. Great all around street tyre, decent price too, and very quiet.
  11. Trust uses an Earls core I think ? I'm using an Earl's oil cooler, 19-row I think, supplied by BEL Garage here in Sydney. Awesome on track, can run 10 laps easy
  12. hey troy, u seen my FS ad? NISMO GT-Pro 2-way mechanical LSD, adjustable, full kit
  13. never mind the noise, isn't there like a $25k fine over there for not having a cat? Or is that just in california? i'm assuming your car is street driven...
  14. no idea mate car was road tuned and also tuned on circuit, so i have honestly no idea what power the car's making. have awesome on-off response and the car pulls like a train to my limit of 8000rpm tho...
  15. off topic from original thread, but i thought i'd add my 2c to the old brand name vs generic debate. do any of you know of the 'EAT22B' STi? Circuit monster, uses mostly APEXi stuff as car was built to showcase APEXi gear. Serial number on the APEXi AX53B70 turbo shows that it is the first unit made by APEXi for WRXs. That turbo has endured 4-5 years of constant super sprinting (every 2 weeks for 3 years), running minimum 1.5 bar, street drags, dyno competitions at 1.8 bar, etc... and it is still as good as new today, i kid you not. APEXi has a braidable seal of some sort which ensures perfect sealing, and is probably why the turbo is still perfect. This is apparently unique to APEXi spec turbo, and is not available on the regular IHI turbos or other competitors that use IHI turbos (e.g. Power Enterprise)
  16. i prefer a neutral setting or just a touch of under, easy to balance with the throttle. What would the effect be of a toe out at the front, and zero toe at the rear? TT: i can't stand a soggy handling road car.. the harsher the better heheh but good warning for the uninitiated!
  17. hi OMP, don't know if u saw my reply in the other thread where u posted, so here goes - i'm running 550cc injectors on my RB20, ECU is AP Engineering PFC. Injectors have gone up just over 100%, but my tuner has done an awesome job with the staging, idle, etc - tuning work. Running a HKS GT2530 turbo, and I only run around 1 bar of boost so we're probably talking about a similar power range, tho I'm probably making less power heheh. I don't think the injector size is too big - my 550cc injectors are bigger than yours and with careful tuning, I even have excellent fuel economy on highway (230kms on just half a tank) and acceptable town consumption - 250-350kms. perhaps there is some issue with the specific injector itself? lag time or something? I don't know much about injectors
  18. http://www.belgarage.com.au/contact.php
  19. don't know tuning has been done on the road & on circuit during trackdays with air-fuel ratio meters, etc. has never been on a dyno.
  20. I've got the SARD regulator with bigger injectors. Not running higher base pressure, but I like the peace of mind that I have a reliable fuel reg heheh. Dont think I need it tho, even on full song my injectors are still on holiday... OMP- i'm running 550cc injectors on my RB20, ECU is AP Engineering PFC. Injectors have gone up just over 100%, but my tuner has done an awesome job with the staging, idle, etc - tuning work. Running a HKS GT2530 turbo, and I only run around 1 bar of boost so we're probably talking about a similar power range, tho I'm probably making less power heheh. I don't think they're too big - with careful tuning, even have excellent fuel economy!
  21. hey guys, i have the whiteline adjustable swaybars front & rear too. as mine only have 2 settings each, with the rear one set hard, I found a lot of understeer with the fronts set hard too. With the front sway bar on the softer setting, much better turn in. Once I sorted out the coilover's settings, car was very well balanced. But still have more body roll than I would like - need to lower the car further, but not possible now as it's my daily driver and I scrape everywhere as it is. thinking of trying a thicker set of swaybars front and rear to replace my existing set, with more adjustment holes so that I can experiment with more settings.
  22. **shudder** i cannot stand the dubbing in both Iron Chef and BMI... i'll have subtitles, thnx
  23. heheh ya I know P, but that will definitely be the next Endless pad I try
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