Mr Italy!

Its most likely just condensation in the exhaust. After the hot air hits it, it turns to steam...

I would have put the 4 ways in the front. I had just front speakers in for about a month before i got around to installing the rears. It will sound much better if you install just the front speakers, as apposed to having 1 front speaker made of rice paper and good ones in the rear.

Small claims court.....

First thing i did when i got my car was to change all oils and filters... So from then on you know your have EXACTLY 5000kms before the next oil change and you know EXACTLY how much oil has gone in. I would do an oil and filter change tomorrow just for peace of mind if i were you...

Holy shit how much oil did you put in there to start off with?! My brother had this happen to him on a different engine (351 V8). It appeared that the breather was blocked so air was being forced up the dipstick, and when we were on a long trip through the country he lost a few litres of oil up the dipstick... Althought i dont know if our engines have some sort of breather however... But back to the matter at hand, how much oil did you put in there to start off with.

I'm also interested to find out any info. How big is the R33 GTR intercooler itself?

This happened to me on my R33... Then one day when i really didnt need it to happen (i was on my way to a funeral), the friggin window fell into the door... The bolt thing holding the window to the control arm snaped... It may not be the same sorta deal but either way, take your door skin off and try to self diagnose whats going on.

Mines needs to hire a lawyer...

Kryostaisis, whats your contact number? I've sent you a PM to find out but i havent heard anything back.

Ahh... I guess you didnt know that kippax Caltex has the 98RON stuff for like 6 months +... Or are you not a fan of Caltex?

Make sure the bolt holding the ECU wires into the ECU is tightened securely. I had this problem and the bolt was loose. Incase you dont know, the ECU is found to the left of the passangers feet, under the plastic. Also, check the AAC Valve.

Its the battery thats gone flat. The clicking you hear is the pull in winding on the starter motor disconnecting because their is not enough current to hold it in, because the battery is flat. Jump start it and all your problems will be solved. It doesnt matter what voltage your turbo timer is showing the battery has because the battery isn't under load...

Ive also got the same clutch and i also have the same noise in low rpms and when i put it in reverse. Mechanic step brother told me theres nothing to worry about with the low rpm noise, just a bearing making a bit of noise.

You know his name, you roughly know where he lives... track him down and SUE SUE SUE!!

I cant help you with the throbbing engine thing but the fuel economy thing... give it a few more tanks before you judge it. Make sure you reset the ECU by removing the battery lead thingos for a few minutes. See if that does the trick.

I second that, Ben knows his shit.

Yeah i see. So if the battery is at 12.5V or 12V when you turn the car off, should it take a rather long time to have the battery then go down to 11.5V just by powering the head deck and speakers? Like it takes mine about 10 - 15 minutes of playing before im stuck having to jump start the car... should it take longer then that to drain .5-1V? Thanks guys. Justin EDIT: Sorry i made this post just as you made yours RB30-POWER. I will take the car to a battery place tomorrow and have a chat to them and have them run a test or two. I know its not the alternator because it does show 13.6+V as you said it should. Thanks again for your advice!!

Ahhh thats the ticket RB30-POWER! I did have to jump start it.. so it is the battery after all. So im assuming the problem with my battery due to its age is that it discharges very quickly, compaired to a new battery? Or is the problem that under load, because of the degrading of the battery due to age, it doesnt have enough steady voltage flowing to the starter motor? Yes.. you guessed it - i dont have a clue about batteries

Hey RANDY I checked the battery yesterday and the fluid is fairly high under each of the caps... I'm stumped.

Hey! Recently ive had a few issues with either my battery or starter motor, or maybe a mixture of both. Basically, if im sitting in the car with the engine off and the music on for say 15 minutes (or there abouts), when i attempt to start the car all i get is a clicking sound coming from the engine bay and it just wont start. I first assumed the battery was flat but i checked using the turbo timer and it says the battery still has 11.5V... I dont have the first clue about how much power a starter motor requires to make it kick, but i would assume 11.5V should do the trick? Any ideas as to whats going on? Thanks guys!

That car right there is NUTS! A mate told me about it during one of the formals.. Its apparently got a rear mounted 351 V8 engine, with 4 carbys (1 carby for every 2 cylinders for those playing along at home). Its also a 4V engine, which was explained to me as having 4 valves per cylinder, as apposed to 2 valves in the ordinary 351. Because its rear mounted, it creates an amazing amount of power... and noise... I just want one.

^^ In the ACT if you get an Auto licence, you have to drive an auto for a year before its automaticly converted to manual...

I was in the same situation as you when i was getting my licence. My parentals both drive autos (or rather, the autos drive for them...). I just drove around in their autos for ages on my L's then went straight into the driving instructors manual car and did 6 lessons (which is the minimum lessons in the ACT to obtain your licence). It really isnt too hard once you've been driving and auto for ages. Once i got my manual licence i continued to drive my mums auto around for about a year till i found the car that i wanted. It went alright, i didnt have to pay for insurance or rego, just fuel... milked it for as long as possible!! But yeah, i would suggest that you do the same sorta thing, its pretty much the most cost effective way of doing it and you'll get a heap of driving experiance out of it.

Nah if i remember correctly, one of the commentators mentioned some fancy technology that they've just employed that makes it work pretty much like they used the clutch to change gears, but it reduces the gear change time slighty as they dont need to lift off/push down on the pedals again... Without placing any more stress on the gearbox then they usually would. Mind you, i heard that about 3 months ago so my memory may be slightly off.

Did they actually bother coming to your house? I figured if i make them get of their asses to come to me, they're gonna be pissed off slightly more then if i brought the car to them... The other reason why i bothered driving to dickson is because im still in the "new car phase" where i find places to drive just for the sake of driving... I'm addicted