No Crust Racing
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I got sick of thinking about batteries so just kept buying chargers. I've got a ctek (racecar), a "noco" thing from supercheap (tow car with 2 batteries), and an old "SupaCharge" branded lead acid thing (farm ute/mower) and will need 1 more when the Silvia gets a battery again (if the 86 stays). I always make sure the charger itself is in free space/away from car etc, just to be sure. -
Looks right at home
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Can't remember the last time I saw a good, healthy battery dropping into the 9s during cranking, Too many variables to say anything about it with any certainty though. A float voltage of 12-12.2 is tired AF and given how AGMs handle high C rate and DOD, will just die faster and faster with each cold start.
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how do you know voltage is fine? quick easy test is connect DMM up and put it on max/min mode, remove fuel pump fuse, crank car for 3-5s, go check min voltage You'd be surprised how many "healthy" batteries are showing under 10v during this test in cold weather.
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Are you telling me I'm going to need a code reader etc to just change the battery when it dies... Why did I let you talk me into allowing Kate to buy this car lol
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Would be good in your car I reckon Johnny. Have seen reports they don't seem to love circuit use and sustained high RPM, but there's so many variables and implementations it's hard to tell fact from fiction. All that said, is it worth it in this car given how you feel about it? Probs not?
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Will all help with the for sale post when it's M3 time...
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That sounds eerily familiar, I wodnder if he used the same. Looks lovely.
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What colour is that? A mate of mine went red/black on his SLR5000 tribute recently also. And yes, also glad to see this still progressing albeit slowly.
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Just shortens the charge time and allows more serious "rejuvenation" if you ever use that. 10/10 good buying.
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15a? Crikey
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I can sense cheap cars for sale so I came as quickly as I could...
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Big updates, tons of work and $$$
