Dobz

Looking at one of the photo's close up you can see metal that has burred up and jammed it from them pressing it on so heavily. That tells me two thing: first of all those guys are sloppy, second that the chamfer on the inside diameter of the collar isn't big enough to accommodate the radius i can see on the crank. With that said i would bet that it's not going to move towards the crank shoulder any more than that so machining the front off leavingabout 0.1mm of overhang on the face for the crank pulley and balancer to tighten down on. Also make sure they machine back the start of the drive flats so doesn't protrude into the front seal area. I'm bored so i put this drawing together to explain, you could give it to those drongos to fix it because it looks like they need all the help they can get.

Holy shit those guys are idiots, i hate to say it but that's not gonna come of in one piece. It'll have to be cut off because a 0.2mm interference fit is tight as f**k. A fit that tight should see the collar heated up, slipped on the crank and left to shrink on. I shrunk my collar on with a 0.1mm interference and 0.1mm crush on the length, 270rwkw and 7000km's with some pretty hard driving and it hasn't let me down.

Go for it, as DVS JEZ said a normal GT3076 will be plenty.

"And this quarter we can see a considerable spike in pod filter sales for some odd reason."- K&N filters executive.

Did the workshop say it was a 0.2mm (0.008") interference fit?

Go spruik your witchcraft, hocus pocus formula some where else you thread grave digger!

I don't think it's sliding off, looking at the photo's i think the radius on the crank is too big and the chamfer on the collar too small. I think they pressed it on and it wedged against the bottom of the raduis not letting it butt up against the shoulder where it should be. IF they could get that collar off in good condition it could be modififed and refitted properly with grubscrews. I think welding should be avoided because it puts stress into the metal and it will most likely require straightening of the balancer section of the crank.

I'm not too sure about sr but rb are 12nm. What diameter are the bolts?

Yep that's very sloppy, I bet they pressed it on before realizing they screwed up the machined length and let it go anyway. You might have to find another workshop that has better standards.

It would be hard to find an old style oil feed flange fittingl like that. The only thing I can suggest is to have a plate made up that bolts onto it and have a tapped hole for a threaded fitting.

How is it coming off? I could imagine he might not have machined the old pump drive back enough and it protrudes more than it should but unless your balancer is loose it shouldn't slide off.

You shouldn't go to a thicker oil just to mask a proplem that should be dealt with properly. If it is the lifters you should have them pulled out and cleaned or buy new aftermarket ones. A thicker oil will ensure your bottom end wears out quicker on cold starts unless you wait for it to warm up before you even think about leaving your driveway.

Did it start after you put the vee port bov on? It looks like that could be the culprit.

Be sure to put up dyno results when you get them. It will be very interesting to see what this turbo does.

Looks like a plain bearing vg30 turbo, I hope you didn't pay to much for it.

That's beside the point because the r35 evolved to how it looks, do you think it would look the same if the previous r32 r33 and r34gtr's never existed?

That car looks too generic with nothing that resmbles from the old ae86. As someone who likes the shape of the ae86 this big jump from what it was to what they've created now and it's a bit too much to stomach personally. If toyota had kept evolving the ae86 from the old days then it's most recent shape might make sense.

I think it would make a difference when using a stock radiator, i say this because it's happened to me before. i used to own an old s13 drift pig that was all stock apart from intercooler and exhaust. Originally had the I/C about 50mm away from the radiator and my water temps were always fine at around 82-84 degrees, it was only after i decided to tuck the I/C all the way up to the radiator my temps started to hover around 90-92 degrees. I didn't think the problem could be the I/C being so close but sure enough I moved it back away and my temps were fine again. That's just my experience. It would be a different story if you had a very efficient radiator like the PWR, they could have there airflow blocked off and they'd still cool well.

Post up some close up pics of the break when you pull it out. I'm gonna take a stab and say it's fatigued after a decent service life and snapped off at the shoulder which is the weakest point. A contributer could be an insufficent radius in the bottom corner of the shoulder causing a more concentrated stress point.

You should try and move your I/C at least another 15-20mm further away from your radiator. With it only 10mm gap how it is airflow can't get in from each side of the radiator, you'll just be forcing air that would usually direct into the radiator through the head light holes and off into the wheel wells.

Get new bolts. The bolts stretch and twist when they're tensioned so once you pull them out they don't have the same tensile strength they had from new. If you'r running around 450hp then a set of arp head studs would add some insurance. And kitto how is it you can reuse rb20-25 bolts but not rb30? They're exactly the same apart from the bolt length.

Yeah they've been around for long enough to prove themselves to be a quality product.

Sorry to hear about it. If that was me I would've lost it if he said it was my fault. Did you get a receipt for the work he did to loosen the belt?

If you want noise get a turbosmart supersonic.

The aem is good, i recently put one in just after the dump pipe and it works well. It was reading pretty much the same as the dyno's sensor which was recently replaced. If your fuel mixtures aren't too rich and you don't burn a lot of oil then you could expect about the same life that you'd get out of a standard narrow band which is 100,000k's under normal driving conditions. Seeing as you probably won't be driving under normal conditions then you might half it to be safe maybe. I plan to replace mine at about 50,000, to get a new replacement sensor is something like $60-70.