Merli

Sorry, I've only looked at the GT-SS one so far as that's the only one that pertains to me... The graph shows that it was running 1.4 bar, not 1 bar and why is it "nothing like what they should be doing"??? It's making 574.3PS @ 1.4 bar, which I would be very happy with? Perhaps you have misread the graph. The RED line is "pawaa" (power), The GREEN line is "toruku" (torque), not stock turbo power

CO2 will work fine for that application Why not just install real nitrous and enjoy the cheap but large power gain that comes along with it?

Oh I thought you were a bit slow there, and didn't understand so I retyped it out in baby steps for you

DJ984: You have to think about what part is doing what things. N2O is injected as a fine atomised spray into the intake piping/intake runners... As it approaches the cylinders it heats up and breaks down into nitrogen and oxygen. The nitrogen: * MASSIVELY cools down the intake air resulting in denser charge, and as a result... More power. * The denser charge also acts as a detonation inhibitor so the Oxygen can do it's thing. The oxygen: * after breaking down into pure O atoms, are very flammable. And along with increased fuel to burn these new O atoms, you get....... More power. So both parts of the N2O molecules play a very important part in the process.

Best one I've been to so far has to be Dancers in the Cross or Mens Gallery on Pitt St. Both owned by the same owner and the girls there are gorgeous, not flea-ridden crack whores like you find in other establishments around the Cross... Perhaps we should organise a "cruise" there soon THREAD HIJACK COMPLETE!

2rismo: This thread makes me cry. Seriously. I'm not even going to go back and reply to all those misinformed posts... It would take me way too long. nath_gtir: The reason why N2O is used instead of pure oxygen, is because pure oxygen is a flammable in it's own right and quite dangerous to be spraying around the engine bay. Also, the Nitrogen component (when it breaks down into N, N and O) has a EXTREME cooling effect on the intake charge, much more so than pure oxygen would. This obviously creates a much denser intake charge, also raising the detonation threshold. You can't go around spraying automotive grade nitrous oxide at people because it has been poisoned by the manufacturer with 1ppm (parts per million) of sulfur dioxide to deliberately stop people going to their race store and buying laughing gas to use at parties... If you inhale enough to make yourself all happy, it won't last long as you'll soon be keeled over throwing up

I find things like this quite amusing We all seem to think that things manufactured overseas has to be better than locally produced products, and for many things, that's absolutely true. But for things like cat convertors, which are made by machine and no hand welding, they're just fine. Think about this. Over in America, there are people bragging about their "Australian-made, Laser-Cut Redback Catalytic Convertor"... Magnaflow are US-made Catco are US-made Davico are US-made Eastern are US-made Walker are US-made Arvin are US-made Redback are Aussie-made So as you can see, pretty much all the cat convertors sold here are US-made anyway...

.............. I assume that's a "men's club" of some sort? Sounds like a good trade to me

You'd better allocate me a good spot, otherwise there will be hell to pay dammit!!! :)

My GT-SS have silver actuators and are adjustable too... Weird.

That implies that you think that it's too expensive for your budget or that he's asking too much. You choose which. Don't get upset... We're all big boys here aren't we? Jack and I are just pointing out that if you think that ph1's car is not worth the money, then you are mistaken.

P.S. I tried to buy that car when I was looking for a GTR, but ph1 didn't want to sell it at that stage. DAMMIT

Okay, that's fine. Lets do a very quick breakdown here shall we? I'll use ph1's car as an example because I know what condition it's in, and how he looked after the car. You would be VERY hard pressed to find an immaculate and anally-looked after 1996 GTR like ph1's for $40,000 but lets just go off that. $40,000 NISMO LM-GT4 Wheels and Bridgestone S01 tyres - $5000 Tein Coilovers and NISMO Circuit Link Set/Tension Rods/Bushes - $5000 Harrop Brake Kit - $5000 NISMO Triple Plate Clutch - $3000 Trust Intercooler - $2000 Blitz SBC-ID EBC - $1500 PowerFC - $1500 Whoops! That's already $63000. So basically ph1 is losing his entire engine build (not calculating the $8000 labour cost he paid to blueprint it and build it. The buyer gets that for free. You implied that he's asking too much for it? What, you think he should lose MORE?!?! Come on man... Be reasonable eh?

I think it's more because buyers are tight with their money (naturally) and don't realise the blood, sweat, tears and pure cash that went into building these "highly modified cars". Everyone wants to buy a "heavily modified" car with "fantastic condition inside and out, with a detailed engine bay"... Basically, you want it all. You want a PERECT GTR. But then they get upset when the owner wants to sell it for a premium over a standard car. $34-38,000? Sure you might find a rare bargain for that price that's in good condition, but most cars in that price range have been accident damaged, repainted, etc etc and have existing nigglies that you will have to fix up, since you're after such a PERFECT GTR... Once you own a GTR, you'll realise that those little nigglies soon add up to a few thousand dollars and your initial "moite what a BAAAAAAARGAIN" turns out not to be so cheap after all. Of course the owner won't recoup all the money spent modifying the car, but the type of "heavily modified" car you seem to be after would have upwards of $25-30,000 spent on them (don't believe me? Ask ph1 for his mods list and costs) and it's only fair to charge a premium for the car. If you want to pay standard car prices, buy a standard car. Personally, it sounds to me like you're aiming out of your budget if you're talking about high $30k GTRs.

Yup, as Gojira said: http://www.rb26.org/forsale.html 340kw @ all four wheels!

Mark, That's a great boost controller you have there, one of the best on the market. Gain doesn't seem to be too high, but have you tried setting it on zero and seeing if that corrects the boost spike? When setting up a boost controller, you should always put gain to zero, and set the solenoid duty until you reach the desired boost level being held at peak, and then slowly turn up the gain to bring up the response at much as possible without spiking (too much)... As SK said, the best method of boost control is buy a wastegate actuator with the correct spring rate to open at your desired boost level, but that eliminates the ability to turn the boost down for wet weather/valet parkers/friends/etc... Good luck!

A couple I snapped...

Boostd: nope, never considered them. For me, the choice was either the larger top end of the 2530s or the response of the GT-SS, and I went for the most responsive turbos I could find on paper, which were the GT-SS. I also wanted to try something new and not follow the GT2530 bandwagon

A modified GTR will keep up with a 750cc, and even beat it, depending on what's been done to it. Stock vs. stock, no contest.

More? http://photos.fortheboyz.com/cars/0402dcombat/index.php

And the important photos

Just a couple of the better ones.

No contest. Stock for stock, the bike would RAPE the Skyline... Even a 600cc would rape a skyline.

I think, being copies and all... It's not really sufficient to link to pictures of genuine items... Is it possible to take photos of your copies?

That definitely shouldn't happen.