Merli

Okay, well here's my two bob in how the forums would best be organised. Firstly, there are too many "Automotive Discussion Forums". For the reasons I stated above, they should be CONSOLIDATED, instead of subjecting them to DIVERSIFCATION as you have done. People are already getting confused. Look at the "Skyline Related Discussion". Some of the new threads are: GREX sump for R33 GTR Real Time Tune Blitz Attessa Torque Splitter for 32/33 GT-R What clutch for rb20det??? with 140rwkw Oil Pumps That's just on the first page. They should really go under the "Forced Induction Performance" right? That's where all the performance and modification threads should go :uh-huh: Stagea and Cefiro forums are fine... Just don't link them on the main forum page. They aren't THAT important. Make them sub forums of the "General Automotive Discussion" These forums should be merged back into General Automotive Discussion (GAD): Other Nissan Imports Skyline Related Discussion What's the point of GAD now? Topics about cars.... EXCEPT skylines, EXCEPT cefiros, EXCEPT stageas, EXCEPT other nissan imports.... What does that really leave to discuss in GAD? :Oops: Threads about bodykits could really just be asked in GAD. There's no need for it's own forum. The Importation, Laws and Regulations is a good one. I'd leave it where it is. It's a pretty important topic.

This is the point though. So funkymonkey has a question about this awesome bodykit he saw on the road, and wants it for his car. That bodykit is actually developed by my good mates at ABC Fibreglass. But since it has been seperated from the Skyline Automotive forum, and I don't have enough interest in bodykits to click on that forum and read it, that question might go unanswered for 2 weeks until someone else can answer the question, whereas if it was still part of the Skyline Automotive forum, which I read, I would have answered it within 5 minutes, with contact number, price and availability. The effect of splitting up different topics into different forums might seem like a tidier layout, but it has the follow-on effect of placing threads into forums that very few people read, as they don't have enough interest in that forum to regularly read it, but can answer the questions posed in there straight away if it were presented to them in their commonly read forums.

I just spoke to Jim @ Croydon Racing Developments (CRD) and he is trying to source the HKS F-Con S/V laptop software from HKS at a cost of $4000 so he can tune this excellent ECU... Just remember that actual costs always run nearly double what he quotes you. Keep that in mind and you'll be fine.

I don't think I can do that... Or at least I haven't figured out how to edit the attendees list... She's just going to have to sign up on the forums :wassup:

Not big enough I fear How can I compete with a T78 w/ Nitrous?? I'll be running at about 150-200hp deficit, and if wreckedhead can "only" manage a 10.8 @ 126mph, I stand NO CHANCE in breaking into the 10s

This sounds like a classic case of atmo-venting BOV still cracked open causing the car to stall on rapid decelleration... You're going along nicely at 4000rpm, light up ahead goes red. You quickly release the throttle, shutting the throttle butterfly and causing the BOV to vent. But the BOV isn't wound tight enough and is still a little bit open as the car decellerates. You hit 3000rpm, 2000rpm, 1000rpm. Your BOV is still a little bit open and leaking all that air out. You engine senses that loss of air, can't keep revs up, and stalls. Solution: Tighen BOV / Buy different BOV with much tighter spring (e.g. move from Bltz DD BOV to Trust Type-R) / Put on a recirculating BOV / Just make sure you don't let the revs drop too quickly and always keep the clutch engaged until about 1200rpm

It says it on the very first line of this thread "All parts are off a 1997 R33 GTR V-Spec, and have done 57,000kms."

................ but I never compared my GTR to any of your GTS-ts? Only MY old one? :confused:

:werd:

No seriously... I have no idea what words I "might be eating"??? :confused:

B-Man: huh? I have no idea what you're going on about :confused: edit: and just because I sold the GTS-t, it doesn't mean I'm not still in the GTS-t camp So add "Merli" to that list of GTS-t supporters

What I was trying to suggest, subtly, was there is more than one thing that makes a car "quicker" than another It's not all about lap times, although I do concede that is very high on my "beat my old GTS-t" list of things to do :Oops:

Bump!

$3k worth of mods? Is that just for the water-air-IC?

Quicker how? 1/4 mile? 60 foot? Terminal Speed? ET? A lap around Eastern Creek? What about Wakefield? Oran? South circuit? GP Circuit? What about just out of Turn 2 at EC? What about around a skidpan? From 60-100km/h in 4th gear whilst overtaking? That's quite a loaded question you asked, but I hope that the GTR will be able to surpass the GTS-t in all the above catergories... If not, then more development will have to be done. As SK said, it's a lot harder to setup a GTR as compared to a GTS-t, so you're going to have to give me time to fiddle with things

You just described the reverse snobbery that Gojira was labelling the GTRs vs GT3s comparison. The exact same thing applies to GTS-t vs. GTR my friend. Everyone wants to beat a more expensive car with less outlay. It's human nature to try and one-up each other, especially those with bigger shoes

Niiiiiiiiiiiice plates!

Okay, got my car back! I'll be there, but lapping erratically just to run the biatch in So I give you warning right now that I'll be accelerating and slowing at weird intervals... I'll try to keep out of everyone's way, but watch out for me

Having more power doesn't necessarily mean you'll lap faster :Oops: There's a hell of a lot more to it than power

gtr

Congrats you King Postwhore!!!

Not sure where boost is coming on just yet... Didn't have a good look at the dyno graph... All will be revealed after final tuning... EVL: The hub dynos eliminate the power loss from the wheels and tyres, so you would expect them to read a little higher than a chassis dyno like the DD

SK, isn't the point of running in an engine to drive it under as much load and compression as possible to bed in the rings and all the freshly machined surfaces? To that end, isn't it better to run a bit of boost to aid stretching the rings out? Or am I completely off track? It was run in for 5 hours on the dyno with varying loads and cruise whilst tuning all the things like cold start, cruise, light load, AFM corrections, injector setup, blah blah blah... Now I get the car for doing a bit more heavier load running in... Does that sound about right? ferni: It was making 210awkw @ 14psi before the work was done... It's all about airflow though, and these turbos aren't even blowing hard yet... We'll just have to wait and see what happens when we turn the boost controller on

:werd:

Gold/Coppery metal bits usually indicates bearings... Doesn't really matter anyway, just run it until it spins a bearing and then get it rebuilt. Nothing you can do at the moment, except maybe run a slightly thicker oil to slow down the wear...