Merli

It HAS to be power, going by the question. There's no ambiguity there.

A bit hard to say with no peak power figure, but I have my money on a single turbo. Perhaps a Trust T67 or HKS T04/GT3040.... Hmmm.... or could they be elusive AX53B60 turbos?

Decoded for human beings: BTW, you're funny. You wanted to buy the plate, and you don't even know what the word means How old are you? hehe edit: I'm sorry, I can't understand or translate the post above that... You guys are on your own.

Your rims are ugly anyway, you don't want them... But at least they're nicer than Chris's ones :spew:

Oops, sorry mate... Here are the gear ratios for the R33 GTS-t Auto box... The R34 Tiptronic is just an automatic gearbox, so I assume it would be the same ratios as the R33 Auto? 1st - 2.785 2nd - 1.545 3rd - 1.000 4th - 0.694 Final Drive - Dunno, probably 4.111

Second hand R34 GTR rocker covers come up on Yahoo Jpn auctions now and again... They go for about AUD$900-$1000. Other options are: 1. 2 Pak paint and clear coat... Engine oil temps only get upto 120-130 degrees... Shouldn't be a problem, but if you're paranoid, go for the heat resistant paint... You can get exhaust paints that will fine upto about 600 degrees. 2. Powdercoating. Limited colour choice though. 3. Ceramic Coating. Again, limited colour choice. Good luck!

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What happened to those Potenzas??!?!

Oh, and your gear ratios are the same as an R33 GTS-t: 1st 3.214 2nd 1.925 3rd 1.302 4th 1.000 5th 0.752 Final 4.111

Well................... not really :D Are you saying that you only use 5750-8500 rpm whilst driving on the track? Often it's not feasible to change down a gear to keep it in that rev range... Example: A tight corner that should be taken in 3rd gear at about 5000 rpm can't be taken in 2nd gear, as that would equate to 7500rpm in 2nd gear (with R33 GTR gearing). You'd actually lose time in the extra two gear changes needed to use 2nd gear into and out of that corner, and you'd only be in 2nd gear for about 0.5 seconds as it revs from 7500-8500rpm anyway.... Make sense? In reality, you'd be aiming to have a strong 4500-8500rpm range around the track...

Fixed.

Nah... I'll stick with the GT-SS for now and see what I can get them to do... If I later decide that I want to move the GTR into more of a track car, I'll sacrifice bottom end response for that perfect track powerband and bolt on some GT2530s Notice I said "Makes sense... I can understand why people consider GT2530s perfect track turbos for the GTR, since that pretty much fits the required powerband prefectly!" I still stand by my claims that the standard GTR is too laggy for street driving, and that if the GT-SS can reduce the boost threshold/lag/whatever ppl are referring to it as today down to 3000-3500rpm, that's a better setup FOR STREET than GT2530s

I've gone for a 260 IN/260 EX Tomei PONCAM setup... But I won't be doing before and after dyno runs and tuning, so I can't say what the effect would be

SK, Interesting that you've found that shorter duration inlet cam works better than the reverse! Tomei sell two PONCAM setups for the RB26: Type A - 260 degree, 9.15mm lift intake / 252 degree, 9.15mm lift exhaust Type B - 260 degree, 9.15mm lift intake / 260 degree, 9.15mm lift exhaust I went for the Type B set for my car, but was wondering what the theory behind running a larger duration exhaust cam was? Wouldn't it be best to have a longer duration intake cam to fill the cylinder and push out the gasses out of the exhaust valves as opposed to having a longer duration exhaust cam and relying on scavenging vacuum to suck out the gasses? Hmmmm...

Oh, and zymotic... Anything over 150-ish is pretty decent. The main thing is even compression across the cylinders... Don't be worried if it only manages 150 across the board and not 180 compression. What you should be worried about is this: 180 175 180 110 170 180 or 160 90 155 165 160 85 Notice a large difference in compressions in a couple of those cylinders? That's what you should be looking for... That's a bad sign

Well that would depend on whether the seller had claimed in his advertisement, or by spoken word that the engine was in perfect health, and it was later discovered that it wasn't. In *THAT* case, then the deposit should be refunded as the product was not as advertised. BUT if the potential buyer simply changes his/her mind, cannot find the necessary funds, loses his licence, finds out something about the car he/she didn't like/whatever... Deposit should not be returned. That's the whole point of a deposit. The potential buyer should have ensured the car was to his/her prefect liking before putting a deposit down on the car. As sewid said, the potential buyer did NOT have to leave a deposit. Doing so is a sign to the seller that the buyer is genuinely interested in buying the car, and wishes the seller to take the car off the market. The deposit is security for the seller in case the buyer pulls out and he loses another potential buyer that he has told that the car is no longer on the market. That's the whole point of a deposit. If you expect your money back just because it fails a compression test, you're being unreasonable and don't understand the whole point of a deposit. The only time you should get your deposit back is if the car is not in the condition stated by the seller.

Whoops!! Sorry, my bad :tomato: :Oops:

Mate, I'll try and supply as much information to you guys as I possibly can I'd like to get a printout of boost vs. rpm as well... I'll see what I can persuade the tuner to give me... A few are pretty anal about printing out A/F ratio graphs as they think they're giving away trade secrets :Oops:

Well not really... That's the whole point of a deposit.

That seems simple enough... Cheers! But after a bit of simple maths, I've worked out the revs drop for each gearchange for an R33 GTR Gear Change Rev Drops (rounded for simplicity) 1st-2nd 3410rpm (8500rpm -> 5090rpm) 2nd-3rd 2750rpm (8500rpm -> 5750rpm) 3rd-4th 1970rpm (8500rpm -> 6530rpm) 4th-5th 2110rpm (8500rpm -> 6390rpm) So R33 GTR owners should be aiming for a powerband between 4500rpm -> redline (taking into account poor drivers holding you up)... Is that right? Makes sense... I can understand why people consider GT2530s perfect track turbos for the GTR, since that pretty much fits the required powerband prefectly! Very interesting, thanks!

I'm not sure... I have to call the tuner tomorrow and see when we can fit her in :headspin: I didn't want to book it in until I was sure the car is ready to go... There are too many things that can hold an engine build up for me to forecast when the car would be ready to be tuned, so I didn't book in advance

She's only a lowly paralegal, but she's got GREAT legs Does it cost a lot more to R&R an RB26? They're the prices I'm working off that I was quoted from 3 workshops here in Sydney to R&R my RB26... I wouldn't have thought an RB25 would be that different?

My engine gets shoehorned back into the car tomorrow Even with a 30rwkw advantage of the Dynapack, that's still 365awkw @ 1.6 bar from the GT-SS... That doesn't sound a little high to anyone else? I'll be happy to crack 300awkw

530awhp = 395awkw... :uhh: :uhh: :uhh: