oxford1327

i have had no issues with the metal bits but have got sunburn on my spoiler where all the clear has flaked off it, and i found that using good old mister sheen stops it for a bit. but as we are on level 4 water restrictions and am not allowed to wash the car it has come back, so i will have to give it another dose soon until i can afford to have it resprayed. the end covers for the side rear windows are faded too so i am gonna get them done in black so it looks like the windows go all the way back. so all in all the yellow doesn't appear to fade as much as red which is a good thing.

i think that the auto level part of the light is on the unit they remove for compliance as the plugs for my leveller are still there but there is nowhere for me to plug it in that i can find, so no it will not work if there is no hole for the plug. also have a look at the thread about the "xenon unit" it has got some pics of the rear of the light unit on page 2 down near the bottom and these will show you what the xenon's should look like before they have removed all the good bits etc.

heya antony thats the headlight level adjustment switch for when your car had xenons, which will have been removed for compliance so it is useless. mine has this too so if you can get a hold of a set of xenon lights it will be able to be hooked back up. just as a side note a set of xenons will cost you around 2000 aud so much cheaper to get an aftermarket kit and chuck in. cheers oxford

awesome work on the part numbers listings have been looking for something like this for ages. i reckon the mods or anyone else who knows how to, need to put this in the sticky section under the parts listings etc.? good work there NEO cheers oxford

thats the same pic i had to go from and it didn work as the layout of the fuses in the panel is completely different in that the fuses are mounted horizontally and there is also a few more of them in there i think 24 from memory? i will try and get a clear pic and post it up of both the panel itself and the rear of the coinbox for deciphering purposes. cheers oxford

hello all i have looked all over the place and am trying to find a translation for the coin box fuse panel in the cabin to suit my series2 rs4s (manual) the only one i have been able to find is for an auto and even the layout of the panel is different. so when i changed my fuel filter today after thinking i had pulled the correct fuse (15amp as per the auto layout) out to kill the fuel pump as well as all of the 15amp fuses in the box until the car "ran out of fuel" and stopped, and thereby empty and depressurise the fuel line i was unpleasantly surprised when i had a rail worth of fuel spew out at me at a fair velocity!!! luckily i was sorta prepared for this to happen so i had already half kinked the line, as well as taking the hose on the side facing away from me off first. if anybody could help me out for future reference it would be awesome. i will try and dig around in the service manual cd that mike40 sent me once i can locate it, so in the mean time can anyone help me out? cheers ogar.

heya bryce was wondering if you would sell the xenon's seperate? if so how much etc. cheers oxford

k cheers for the location just need a replacement part number and i am set?????? anyone??????

hello all i am looking to replace the fuel filter and as yet have not had a look for it under the bonnet, i did a search of the forums and have as yet not found any reference to its location or a part number, if anyone can point me in the right direction would be good, fast only comes up with a strainer in the tank and another inline one but can't read the jibber to tell whether its a part number or not? local nissan dealer was no help as usual hahaha. and all the auto parts places only list up to r33 skiylilnes and even then there are 3 different part numbers that it could be, there is nothing listed in any of them to suit a NEO engine. the only reason i have not had a look under there for it yet is that i know if i find it i will pull it off and knowing my luck A) it will fall to bits therefore rendering the car useless till i get another B) it wont have a bloody part number on it anyway and will be stuffed therefore rendering the car useless as well. the car is running fine at the moment but had a dodgy batch of fuel while out of town recently and wanna make sure nothing is gonna catch me out in the future, i also wanted see how much goo is in there after using boost 98 for the last 12months or more, and to also see how much is in there when i do another change in 12 months time after i put a fuel catalyser in the tank. cheers oxford

spotterered a silver stag going in opposite direction and turning into bells road in coburg?(we were lost) we were in yellow series 2 looking at the melways and didn't see it approaching but girlfriend saw it when driver started tooting in friendly manner, she was more excited than me as its the first other one she has seen on the road and i have had mine for 2 years next week,unsure as to whether was series 1 or 2 as only saw the bum of it in mirror. anyone from on here i wonder?????? looked to have a 260rs rear wing?

cant really go past a turbosmart E-boost2 if you have the money as they have a lot more functions than most people will ever need, not only that they are an aussie product so service issues if you were to have any would be a lot easier to deal with. some of the functions are different boost levels for a selected gear,inbuilt boost guage in the display can be set to display in either PSI,bar or Kpa, output for nos switch etc or could be utilised for something else if req'd?, ability to set wastegate pressures and heaps of other stuff too. the menu system is pretty good and easy to use too. just my 2 cents

i replaced a cv boot earllier this year so i will try and track down the part numbers for you but i found that most suspension places use generic ones now anyway and they work just as good, they even have a nifty little air driven stretcher they use to get em on without having to remove the shaft. so maybe go and ask your local suspension fitter and see if they do that before splashing out on a genuine nissan unit? i will try and chase down the invoice for you any way cheers oxford

hello all i just found there is a series one for sdale on ebay oz for $5200. a couple of yanks bought it to tour around in and are selling it cheap cos they are flying home on the 27th of this month http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Stagea-Wagon...1QQcmdZViewItem

heya all i just won a typhoon intercooler from ebay for $80 so cant wait to get it and clean it out etc. then the hunt will be on for some pipework and joiners so ican fit it up. then i spose it will be a trip back to the dyno to see if it makes any difference in the tune and boost levels etc.

c'mon surely there is someone out there that is thinking of getting their L's or knows someone who is? BUMP!!!!

had federals on my stagea when i got it and they were lucky to last 30,000klms. they are crap and if you really want a decent tyre go for michelin all the way. i switched and man what a difference in ride, so much smoother and quiet to boot!!! just my 2 cents

i am also currently looking at one of the FPV typhoon intercoolers to fit to my series 2 and would be interested to hear if it was successful? of if anyone else in here knows wht they are rated too for flow etc.?

what are the relative differences in the units listed above if someone can answer? for example are any of the steel internals as opposed to ceramic? do they shift the rpm/boost band around either higher or lower, and if so which ones and which way specifically? all this is in case mine goes tits up and i need to replace it quickly to return car to service, as iwould like to be able to have one ready to go if need be, and it would be a bonus if i didn't need to worry bout it smashing again if it were to be steel internals etc. also wondering what a high flow would be worth to get done if i didn't need to do changeover? cheers oxford

i am running a turbosmart E-boost2 unit so it should hold no probs i just wanted to know the things outlined in the iniitial post but also how long would the wheels last if i were to run at 13-14psi? also would i have to change anything to do with the wastegate settings or the blowoff valve etc?

hello all. i know it is a bit of a noob question but i really cant be stuffed trawling through all the turbo threads to find out the following question. which standard nissan turbo's are the same output as the std series 2 stagea as well as being the same fittings etc., but with steel internals? for instance does a snail from an r33 rb25 fit up the same? or perhaps and r34gtt etc? and was wondering if the turbo from a dirty old holden VL is the same fitment but with steel internals as i have been told? only reason i ask is i am wondering how long my original turbo will last if i wind it any further than the 12p.s.i i have it set at currently and have been told that a VL turbo would be a direct swap and has steel innards. if that is true i can get hold of a pretty good vl unit for $150 andwould like to know if its gonna fit is all. cheers oxford

there was a set of poncams on ebay other day to suit an rb25det just for interest sake

I WANT ONE!!!!! that is all.

Honda CB250N 1980 model, girlfriend has decided to update to something more modern. bike has been painted in same colour as BA falcon xr8 metallic blue, have fitted new tyres and brakes all round,new battery and head light globe, new muffler on one side as was corroded at link pipe end, as a result center collector was removed and cleaned out and had a new bell mouth welded on to reconnect muffler, have also fitted a ventura rack and rails. i have a heap of spare parts for this bike including a new set of o-ring chain and sprockets,a couple of workshop manuals and also a parts cd that outlines all the part numbers etc.,other spares include a set of carbies and reco kit to suit carbs, head and base gasket set, and also a spare rear seat cowling. i reckon if i had a dig around in the shed i would probably find some more stuff for the bike too. bike is registered until late feb of 2008 and will come with a roadworthy certificate if req'd. asking $1200 o.n.o with roadworthy. see photo attached, if would like more pics please pm me and can send you some contact me via pm or if you wanna ask any questions please call me on 0417151262 daniel

just thought i would put an update in this thread as i forgot all about it ooops! i managed to get hold of a stalk with the auto light function on it but the plug is different in shape as well as having different pins in it so alas it does not fit . however now at least if someone else is thinking of doing the same they will know now, if they find this thread that is. i didn know you could buy auto light bejiggers as an aftermarket item from supercheap or the like so i will endeavour to check it out before i go back to work on friday cheers oxford

as always mike from my point of view you are right on the money! and a small side note to havnfun as all the other posters in here have said the price from darren is very reasonable as last time i got a quote on gettin some from jp it was gonna be around 650 aus by the time they got here,and that was with no guarentee of how they would arrive as there is little in the way of insuring items like that against breakage. even if there was its a bloody long wait to get another set and same deal is that there is no guarentee of what condition they are in before they leave. also it is unwise to upset people on forums such as these by calling them childish names, in the end we are all on here to gather as much knowledge as we can from each other, and also to share what knowledge we have with new comers in the hope that they too can impart what they have learned in future. getting people off side only hinders you from help in time, and its usually when you need it most with an odd/rare problem that guys like darren etc. have dealt with in the past, and i am sure that the info would most likely not be forthcoming. just my 2 cents cheers oxford