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blind_elk

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Everything posted by blind_elk

  1. blind_elk
    ECU pinouts are the same (RB20DE, RB20DET), so I'm guessing the looms are identical as well.
  2. blind_elk
    WTF is "ownage"?
  3. blind_elk
    NEVER been harassed by the constabulary. Even when a marked car followed me off from a set of lights. My GTS4 looks like a GT-R, but I knew the police were there, and totally behaved myself (as I always do). I've even travelled around Knox - yet to meet the delightful Officer Pettet.
  4. blind_elk
    Tha's how mine works. Actually, it uses 2 changeover relays, that basically switch VVT off for idle, switch on at 1500, then switch off at 4500 (roughly).
  5. blind_elk
    If you have spark and fuel and compression (I'm guessing you have compression - burnt out wiring won't affect that), then the engine should start. Can you hear the injectors "tick ... tick ... tick ..." when you are cranking the engine?
  6. blind_elk
    The difference could also have been attributed to the tune of the particular car. They should have repeated the test with the "snake oil" on the other car. I'm sure if it really worked, the manufacturers would be using it.
  7. blind_elk
    I would expect the location of the extra groove to depend on the spring rate and overall dimension of the Eibach compared with other (Kings) spring. I would expect Whiteline themselves could set up the new groove for you (or at least point you at someone who could).
  8. blind_elk
    Disregard the original - I wasn't paying attention to what I was reading.
  9. blind_elk
    Probably needs a bit of WD40 sprayed around the ratchet teeth (near the pivot), and maybe up the inside of the handle (from the ratchet end).
  10. blind_elk
    What about ABS?
  11. blind_elk
    Wouldn't you have to trust a place that supposedly lives and breaths diffs? First q - do you have oil in the diff? You will know what is wrong when you strip the diff down to replace the bearings &/or CW&P. Or just go and get a changeover / SH unit.
  12. blind_elk
    Not the bloody TSC - the TPS (Throttle Position Switch)! The rears will now be rotating faster than the fronts (smaller rolling circumference) so the ATTESSA will think you have wheel slip. Try swapping front - back.
  13. blind_elk
    When was the last time you changed the filter? I've never had a problem with running injector cleaner. I'd put money on the ignitor module - they have a habit of misbehaving when the get old and too hot.
  14. blind_elk
    Had given up on those, thought you'd forgotten Stock as, had about 285k on it. Still started first time, every time (unlike the prissy R32)
  15. blind_elk
    I have one that came off a Stagea RB25DET. PM if you are interested.
  16. blind_elk
    Clean the fuel tank. There might be something in there that's blocking the pickup.My R30 is just running a stock (black) Bosch ignition coil (no ballast resistor) - runs fine. (If you want a going L24E engine, call round and take it away.)
  17. blind_elk
    The flywheel bolts you want are RB30 ones. The bell housing are "any old bolt", but you might as well get the Nissan ones while you are there.
  18. blind_elk
    Think about it. You've just pushed a caliper piston back into a cylinder containing brake fluid. The cylinder is now smaller - some of its volume is now filled with piston. The brake fluid - like all fluids - is incompressible. Where is the fluid going to go?Bleed the excess fluid out through a bleed nipple at one of the calipers.
  19. blind_elk
    Why don't they teach this stuff when you are learning to drive?Turning the engine over, the ECU is injecting fuel into the cylinder. The fuel is not burning because the engine is not firing. The mixture inside the cylinder is getting richer and richer - more and more fuel, same amount of air. Give it FULL THROTTLE so it gets LOTS OF AIR, and it stands a chance of starting.
  20. blind_elk
    If you managed to get car-b-cleaner on the O2 sensor while doing a AAC valve clean, then you should give up any pretentions to becoming a mechanic!ashr32, did you reset the AAC after you reassembled it? I suspect you have a small leak somewhere - split hose or similar. It will be OK to drive it in it's "slightly lean" condition, just avoid any serious boost until you work out the answer.
  21. blind_elk
    Get a boost off another battery, ie jump start. And give it FULL THROTTLE - you have probably flooded the engine by now.
  22. blind_elk
    Well, I've worked out that the new mirrors work by reversing the polarity to make them move up/down and in/out. I'm guessing that the R32 has a separate wire for each movement (up / down / in / out). That means fitting changeover relays inside the door to achieve the switching necessary to make them work. Or I could try and send them back. Or I could write off $150.
  23. blind_elk
    One of the better nail-biter finishes. Congrats to Ford 1 2 3.
  24. blind_elk
    The mixture will go super-lean, so there's a fair bet it could stall. The hose from the passenger-side rocker cover connects with the inlet pipe between the AFM and the turbo compressor.
  25. blind_elk
    Just bought a pair of "Ganador-style" electric mirrors off eBay. When I went to fit them, I found that my car (32 GTS4) has 5 wires going to the mirror, and these new mirrors only have 3 wires. Anyone know which 3 wires I need? Or do I really need all 5? TIA
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