blind_elk

To remove spark plugs: Step 1 remove engine:p seriously, 1. remove inlet pipe from throttle body 2a. remove PCV hose between rockers. 2. remove cover plate (between rocker covers) 3. Unplug coil packs 4. Remove bolts holding coilpack frames in position. 5. Lift coilpacks up off sparkplugs. 6. Find you have the wrong spark plug socket, put it all back together, go get the right socket (smallish one), come home, pull it all apart again. 7. remove sparkplugs I would start with (NGK) heat range 6, gapped down to 0.9mm. Since you're using coppers - dirt cheap - you can afford to have a couple of sets, so you could try a set of 7s later. Not sure of the (NGK) part number, but its been mentioned numerous times in various posts - have a search.

$2300 - you could probably get a VR4 engine for that price!

Why have you got a surge tank AND an in-tank pump? Seems these 2 are mutually exclusive.

I have the one for the R32. Its useful for the technical information, particulary diagnosing problems, and ECU pinouts. Frankly, I was extremely disappointed in the quality - I found over 200 typographical (mainly spelling) errors. This makes me wonder about the accuracy of the info contained in the manual. I would hope the work they do for their other clients, which I recall include the NZ government, is of a higher standard than this manual.

I'm running NGK Platinums - PFR6B-11, gapped down to 0.9mm. Heat range 6 is probably what u need.

T28?

I'm a subscriber. I think there's a lot of crap there, mainly all the new car reviews, but there's the occassional good technical article (and that's really the only reason I'm there). For about 80 cents per week, its good value (certainly compared to the newstand variety, at $2 per week)

The smell is Hydrogen Sulphide - result of too much sulphur in the petrol, I think. Not a lot you can do about it, maybe change petrol brands.

6psi - look for a leak in the valve 20psi - look for a nail through the tread.

The guy is racing on the fu(king streets:mad: And we're endorsing his actions.Next he'll come whingeing to us that the police have confiscated his car, and he wants our advice as to how to get out of trouble.

Well, you won't save too much dosh this way - uses more petrol, more wear'n'tear on the gearbox, more wear'n'tear on the driveline.Thank heavens you're in Perth:rolleyes: One less idiot to look out for.

There's a simple solution - take it back to the cowboys that complianced the car and tell them to fix it. If they don't, you'll report them to Fair Trading.

The PCV valve should be in the inlet plenum. Follow the hose up from the RH rocker. If 33s are anything like 32s, then the 2 rockers should be connected by a 'U' of rubber hose. All you need to do is remove the small hose that runs from the LH rocker (passenger side) to the inlet near the turbo, and replace it with the separator and its 2 hoses. So instead of: PCV - RH rocker - LH rocker - turbo inlet you will have: PCV - RH rocker - LH rocker - separator - turbo inlet

Jeez, some ppl talk a load of ****y poo! 'Load' has nothing to do with the stickiness or otherwise of your tyres, Killer. The 'load' seen by the ECU is basically being measured by the AFM. The ECU has a little table, with 'load' along one side and 'rpm' - which it gets from the CAS - along the other. At each point in the table, there is an 'open the injector' time. So, the ECU gets the load and rpm, and 'looks up' the injector time. If you change the fuel pressure - by changing the pressure regulator - , then you can change the amount of fuel injected during the duty cycle (injector open time). I've read that its more effective to increase the fuel pressure than to fit larger injectors if you need more fuel for a given duty cycle. Not only do you get more fuel, but it gives a better spray pattern as well.

Which particular 'line? Apparently, 32 Rs can develop a problem of idling high. Mine (32 GTS4) idles nicely around 650 - 700. You can adjust the idle by fiddling the screw in the base (drivers side) of the AAC valve (located at the back of the plenum chamber (on GTSs)

Are you using Optimax? A mate had the problem with his R34, changed to Synergy8000, no more stain. A light cut & polish should remove it.

Isn't it your friend who needs the parts cheap?

You don't need a pic - use your eyes! An alternative is to follow the return fuel line (the one without the filter) up to the fuel rail. You'll trip over the regulator on the way.

Basically the R32 GTS4 is 'Godzilla' minus a turbo and 600cc of engine capacity. It doesn't have the bulges in the guards that Godzilla has. It has a different aero-kit. It can be fitted up with a GT-R rear wing, then to the untrained eye, it is Godzilla. Sorry, I can't be bothered telling you any more.

Hangs off the front of the plenum chamber (intake manifold). There's a small hose off the plenum that connects to a little bulby looking thing - about 1" in diameter - tht's the fuel regulator, 'T' into the hose for your boost gauge.

I think you will find that the actuator from the alarm has come loose on the existing door-lock. The solenoid piggybacks the central locking, and is held in place by a grub screw. The screw loosens and allows the alarm solenoid to slide independent of the central locking. Pull the door panel off, reposition the solenoid connection and tighten the grub screw. All fixed ;-)

I thought this translated to "if you can hear pinging, its too late"

If you're talking the reservoir in the RH rear of the boot (of a R32 at least), then it takes auto-trans fluid. It drives the transfer clutch. (The front diff is inside the sump.)

Could be tempted.

Its most likely the globes. You will probably find when you remove them, they will have a lovely silver mirror finish on the inside of the glass - that would explain the gradual dimming of the LH one at least.