hypergear

For a R33 Rb25det, it really needs the pistons and valve springs, its a good idea to have it properly built then saving coins. Mine cost about $5G to rebuild including CP pistons, Supertech valve springs plus other bits and pieces.

I've done a number of tests based on small singles fitted to a unopened GTR engine. You can find more details on my thread. Be brief. I've fitted one of my TD06SL205 Turbocharger on my GTR externally gated in 10cm rear. It runs off a TD06L2 turbine, with a compressor that is15% more efficient then a standard 20G without adding lag. This is a proven turbocharger working with SR20 and Rb25 engines. On Rb26, because the head flows so well, the extra rev and engine capacity, this turbo can not keep up with set boost once the engines revs over 5000RPM. Stronger external gate spring only caused higher boost spike in mid range while made no changes up top. Been the Kando's standard TD06L2-20G, your boost tapper should be even worse. Best power was 308awkws pump 98 fuel, Vs factory Twin T25s On E85 the best run was 367awkws, and averaging of 350rwkws. Goal was responsive 400awkws, data from the following evaluations shown that I could never get that. Lead me thinking twice of why Nissan have chosen to twin turbocharge this engine. Anyway, I don't usually stop till I get there, so scraped every thing I knew about Rb25det and start fresh, many weeks of modeling, testing and $$$$$ later (Check details on my thread), it worked. ATR45SAT / AKA ATR43G4/SAT. 411awkws @ 24psi, E85 Fuel Power and Response Vs Stock T25s This turbocharger has been left on my car since. Ps. It doesn't cost much more then what you've paid. List your TD0620G back on Ebay and fit this instead.

That was on E85. Neo engine's pretty good, didn't have issues taking boost, and I didn't experience valve floating issues either. The external gate is welded to factory exhaust manifold, search the index page on my thread, there are few pages explaining how.

Might be too much power for this thread but: Neo head is good for 28psi. Or possibly more, This one haven't melt yet. Running our very first ATR45SAT prototype turbo, externally gated off stock exhaust manifold. Stock standard, Unopened Rb25det Neo engine.

For power and close to factory response, I will only be advising you of going single.

Using turbocharger above I only have results based on two different boost levels: Very light blue: 21psi make 380rwkws. Orange: 24psi make 404rwkws. Dark blue lines are from a different prototype used for comparison, that is irrelevant to this test.

Yes, Check my last result from a month ago. made 311rwkws on 20psi with a cooler restriction with pump fuel. It can be made as a bolton turbo. Cost $1250 inc oil line.

GTR-R33 Standard unopened engine Brae high mount manifold HyperGear HPVA 50mm external gate 1000cc ID Inejectors Haltech platinum Plug in ECU HyperGear ATR45 Special application Turbocharger In Ceramic ball bearing 600x300x100mm intercooler 3inches turbo back exhaust 401awkws@24psi E85 fuel.Running against factory twin T25s

Hi, I've been MIA for few weeks due to an small operation and now back on business. I'm catching up with every one's jobs, they will be all out this week, I apologise for the delay The R34 test rig is in progress and will be tuned with the latest SS2 prototype this friday, hopping for 300rwkws+ with 20psi by 3500RPM. Dyno reading from a high flowed OP6 turbocharger, making 275rwkws internally gated @17psi, pump fuel: And posting a small video from twin ATR43SS2.5 powered LS1 V8 maxing out the dyno at 12psi, its apparently making over 1000Mn of torque. Their dyno is getting upgraded, hopefully seeing over 1000HP+ on a full run.

The best exhaust is no exhaust. Some of the cheap and loud exhausts actually makes the highest power. Due to the size of turbo compressor, the whole turbo has to be spaced 15mms towards chassis side. 3.5inches would be making it hit the chassis rail. well I see how it goes first.

Yes I do remember seeing it. Pretty good result for the level of boost given. Want to go larger?

And No issue.

Here's what happens. When you joins two compressors together and run off two exhaust wheels in series. It works out as you have one massive compressor running off the first turbine wheel in the series. You must blank the larger turbo on initial spool, as pressure always "leak" from the weaker exist. It might work with a complex gating system, you will be fighting to get room to fit them all. I found smaller and very responsive single turbo surge badly under partial load on Rb26 engines. You might need use aftermarket cams and VCT system to get around this problem if you are going to make above system work.

As for shopping basket, list below contain prices and names of where they came from. Car is fully standard. Goal is 400rwkws E85 using a single bolton internally gated turbocharger, Prices are quoted in RRP by perspective suppliers. 1. Xtreme Pull type Cushion button heavy duty clutch KNI25003-1C. from Race brakes : $891 2. Splitfire coil packs from Just Jap: $589 3. JJR's stainless steel R34 3inches turbo back exhaust system: $770 4. XSpurt 1000cc top feed injectors from Injectorsonline.com: $750 5: Walbro 470 L/H fuel pump from Injectorsonline.com: $200 6: Adaptronic R34 Plug in ecu: $1499 7: Havoc Fabrication Front mount cooler kit: $850 8: 4 inches metal induction pipe made by few silicon hoses and a pod: $100 9: Complete dyno tuning from Chequered Tuning $750 10: I will be using my own ATR43G4SAT internally gated bolt on Turbocharger. $1250. Total spending: $7649 Plus about $500 in labor it works out to be $8150. This will be a ball park figure and parts that you will be looking at when comes to performance mods. I will be updating as project progress.

For 1K. I can supply you a high flowed Rb25det turbocharger. It will beat your KLS unit in Power, Response and Longevity.

Rb25det owners are the back bone of this community as well as my workshop. I've purchased a better conditioned R34, it is fully stock, and I will be modifying it all over again. It is a good opportunity for members whom might have missed my previous build and hate to dig out pages. I will sum up lists of parts I'm ordering and label prices and shop names. For members inquiries about the Rb26dett, Using unopened engine, I don't think its possible to get much better response using the simultaneous twin system. For a single high mount, I can get you pretty close to the -9's response while getting -5's power. For RB30det engines, It varies, I'm getting all sort of engine CPRs depending on whom its built by. Generally using a Rb25det head and a NA VL 3L Bottom you end up some thing like 8.3:1. You can use our ATR45, ATR45SAT or ATR45SS on those to get very good response and decent power output. I'm keen on Rb30det results also, PM if you need a turbo for it, I'll be more then happy to trade discount for results.

I guess the point of bring that up is my RB25det NEO did not broke because it had excess boost at it. The failure was totally none performance related. They are excellent engines.

The buyer only trust that particular workshop, no one expected this issue. The car drove perfectly to the point when it was powered up again after the comp test. The comp tester shown very little change after, its a metal "bashing around" sound from the upper half of engine. Work shop had a broken scope that can't be used. Owner offered $3.5G to rebuild that engine, to me the rest of the car's too rough to have that sort of money spent on. Buyer how ever was happy to take the way it is with $4G discount, his offer was accepted, and I'm over with it. I'll be looking at few more skylines this week, and hopefully be back on projects shortly.

Here is what happened. A mate of a customer shown interest of buying the test car, welling to pay my asking price but requested for a compression test at a known workshop that few of my customers went and have sent me a number of jobs in the past. (Not chequrered tuning or any one from the SE). The car was perfect, drove in to the work shop. They did a comp test, all came up to 170 psi. After the plugs were put in, crank and straight way there was a knocking sound in the engine. The mechanic "one of my customer" also found a missing coil pack bolt that I know it was not missing from start. I'm 90% sure some that was dropped into a spark plug hole, but the shop owner tries to convince me its a knocking sound from end bearings. LoL. With oil pressure gauge alive and sender gage disengaged, it obviously makes no sense. I'm f*ken pissed off at this point but did not wish to turn at all those familiar faces. So that was the end of it. I'm leaning towards of doing some work on Rb20dets. After all that's the only engine that I've missed out and the project will be very challenging. .

If the bearing's shattered the wear on the comp wheel will be mainly on the edges. If it exploded from surging or too much boost. you will have chunks of blade broken from the hub. In your case the "machine" work looks even, I suspect if there might be objects went through.

Does not fit Skyline. Water lines are the same but oil feeding is different. Send in your factory Skyline and get that high flowed, It will probably cost less then marking around of fitting that VL turbo and makes more power internally gated. If you really want to use that particular turbo, Bring it in with a OP6 turbine housing. We can machine out that rear to suit your CHRA unit. Once that is done it will fit pretty ok.

Well, you can drop in with your blown turbo I should be able to tell you why it blew

Engine bearing spud. LoL. I've sold it to a metal recycler. Starting all over again.

If you are going to be using it internally gated bolton turbo and expect the most response out of it I do recommend our ATR43SS1PU, this turbo performs the identical way as the standard 21U high flow, it makes 20psi by 3400RPM, which is your factory turbo's response that peeks around 310rwkws on E85 fuel or about 265rwkws on Pump. But if you are only looking to keep it as a factory bolt on temporary terms and expect a huge jump in HP after external gate and high mount is installed, I would recommend our ATR43G4SAT turbo, This turbo has similar response to a 3076 that peeks 20psi by 3800RPM, capable of making around 312rwkws on pump 98 fuel using street legal return flow cooler, and good enough to peek 420rwkws on a high mount E85 setup. Both turbos has detachable rear dump adaptor, so it can be high mounted or low mounted without too much trouble on the exhaust piping. I've got a Oxford dictionary pages worth of dyno reading with different turbo combinations specifically engineered for a Rb25det engine, you are welcome to give me a ring to go through couple of more specific configurations for your needs.

From WTAC 2104 RWD class winner's car (Ssxricho). R33 GTST RB25DET unopened engine. - PFC ECU - 1000CC ID injectors - Factory cams and cam gears. - HyperGear 21U STD high flowed turbocharger with high pressure actuator. - Front mount inter cooler - 3 inches turbo back exhaust - Walbro 470L/H Fuel pump - 3 inches induction pipe - Split fire coil packs - E85 fuel 310rwkws @ 19psi. 20psi @ 3400RPM. That is power and response. 20psi @ 3400RPM. Build thread at: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428535-richos-r33-gtst/?view=findpost&p=7504453&hl=%2Bhypergear