W0rp3D

its more a factor of trying to eliminate a common item that screws up, plus i will be buying new coils soon so looking at the option of getting S2 coils and doing away with the igniter all together, as mentioned i have a power fc so no need to change ecu just wondering what else needs to be done wiring wise.

I would like to get rid of the igniter on my S1, is there any quality difference between S1 and S2 and how hard would it be to use S2 coils in a S1 running a power fc?

They have closed. I did notice that you can buy both of there cars with engines as last raced for 300k, or you can buy 2 ford rally cars for 300k, GB anyone

I dont have an oil temp gauge but the water temp got to 95 the other day according to the pfc.

Do you ever read a whole thread before you post a comment? thats twice now you have put your fingers in gear before your brain which represents 20% of your posts.

I wouldnt mind knowing that as well, i got a cheap set of injectors for 200 or 250 cant remember was told there 650cc items, took them to trent at status and he said there deutch works hi flows, want to get them cleaned an tested before i put them back in, will post up results when i have had it done, still looking for some were to do it.

Everything you have said is totally the opposite to what everyone has told me. And trent from status tuning knows his shit, i dont see any need to change tuners.

Still here

they have one standard why do you want to replace it?

your best bet is to check with what ever state you are in (after all is the person on here that says you can have one going to pay you fine and take the points when the cops pull you over and say you cant) , would have been helpfull to mention what state your in as every state has different laws.

Does that include p platers who are not allowed to have any mods?

No more offers?

These will be on ebay tonight.

The only reason you would require a cai is if you have a pod, a pod is an illegal mod for p plater which means that the cai is no illegal but the pod is.

EDIT Missed the vQ part, mine is vG and it has a t4 front on it as well.

That was not aimed at you, R31nismoid must have deleted the post that it was aimed at which WAS the one before it, was posted by some one with the name of BRAAAA or something like that, he made a remark about me only having a gtst. And for the record, no i cant afford a monaro, but before i bought a nissan i was a ford man, still am now and will be for the rest of my life, therefore have no interest in a monaro, an F6 typhoon on the other hand......

I was not saying that you didnt make what ever figure, i was just pointing out that whilst everything looks standard it may not be, i personally dont care if it is or is not, but after looking around for an aristo with a 2j to get 300rwkw has to atleast have a fuel cut defender, speed cut defender and be boosted, thats why it sounds odd that this particular car hit 300 on 7psi and nothing done to the ecu. As for the 2 door commodore, LOL, yeah i drive a gtst, it owes me 16k and i only have 211rwkw, you have a 2 door commodore that owes you 40k+, so once i spend another 24k+ i wonder how small you will be in my mirrors,

WOW, your my hero. Maybe one day you will grow up and get a life but untill then you keep dragging you knuckles around from forum to forum trying to show everyone how much of a tosser you are.

Really, WOW never knew that.

So why are you here?

Unfortunately when ever i open my wallet to get more power its empty......

So your saying that you or the other guy didnt say that?

The 45 was most probably when i was giving it a boot, didnt notice it till after, when ever i have been driving normally its usually 15-25.

Can anyone tell me what is safe-moderate-dangerous knock levels? I hit the limiter once which showed just over 60, most of the time its around 25 but one other time i have seen it at 45 with out hitting the limiter.

Apparently mine is a vg30 rear housing and core and it bolted straight up.