VB-

34 GTR box is tough as nails, use that for your 4wd conversion if you wanted

R1, you'll only get in sh*t if you get caught if you catch my drift seriously, are you confident your not gonna drop it? if not buy something that has cheap replacement parts, CBR250 or such

hi-flows start from about a grand

happen at any particular RPM range? under high load only?

so what else is needed from the RB25 if he sourced a 26 top end?

ok so it is me thats advising him to go for the RB26 head. reasons being, he can use the standard GTR plenum and throttle bodies, the motor hes gonna get built will be using an aftermarket plenum, so he has to buy the plenum, then use his head, leacing him with a spare inlet and bottom end worth 3/5ths of f*ck all my theory is to buy the 26 top end, use that, so he'll save 1k on buying aftermarket plenum, then he can sell a complete RB25 motor, easier to get rid of than the parts he would otherwise have. drawbacks would be that he has to buy another ECU/loom (hopeuflly get loom with head) and may have a few ancillaries missing off the bottom end. what ancilaries will need to come off the 25 to build this new motor anyway? alternator, a/c, p/s? overall i think it would be worth it but i havent built one of these motors before opinions?

X2

good luck with the sale man, i'm over either completely stock or big bodykitted skylines, what you've done is perfection, no kit, no spoiler, just nice rims and dropped it.

no weight in the rear plus good brakes in the front

yeah definately do NOT have to take the wheel off, and i wouldnt bother especially with airbag etc

damn auction garde 4.5 is good, and thats probly the reason he bought one from japan GTST, probly too hard to find a nice celan one here for the money. would also like to know how much it cost

cant help u with a guide but mate of mine has done it, pretty basic stuff. from memory the dash surround (round the cd player air con etc) was just held in by clips. theres a screw behind the ashtray, and you unscrew the gearknob the pull the bit around it straight up, think theree MIGHT be a couple of screws holdin this down (might need dash surround out first to allow you to pull it up) the actal dash itself is a lil bit complicated to get out, cant remember where the screws etc are, but drop your steering wheel right down and sorta flip it forward towards you, although you dont need to pull it right out to get at the LED's sorry cant be of too much help, but its better than nothing. mate did it following a guide also, i'll try and get him to link it

trying to help a friend out here, but just cant bring myself to register on any honda forums :laughing-smiley-014: car is a 98 accord with an F23A, mods are full exhaust and intake (pod). it has a MASSIVE flat spot until ~5k which im pretty sure it where it hits VTEC, then it just takes off till about 6k where it starts coughing and spluttering till just before redline just changed plugs as old ones look a big fouled up, but made no difference. my mate was telling me that he pulled the leads one by one (replacing the previous one so it only dropped one cylender at a time) and went through that process a couple of times, and both times pulling the number 3 cylinder caused it to die, where as the others just caused it to idle rough cant be bother throwing it on a dyno but may if its really necesarry. next up i was thinking diagnostic, then fuel filters+clean injectors. to me it feels like spark is braking down but i really dont know where to go from here, and dont wanna do too replacing of things as my mate doesnt wanna throw too much money at it without results. any ideas? cheers, Ben

if you want that much power (im going to assume its hp) go for a local 3 litre bottom end. shit load more toqure for every day driving, probly cheaper to build than a tomei kit, and more reliable IMO than an RB26 (25/26 whatever you wanna call it)

how in f*cks name does it only weigh 160kg more. i call bs

the RB26 piston has more of a dish in it?

pretty sure rb26 and 25det heads are the same cc (within 1 or 2cc)

yeh there used to be but pretty sure they took them out now. it used to be one stud road, heading into dandy, so if u turned from heatherton left onto stud it would have been facing right at the back of your car, but yeh pretty sure its gone now anyway

whys it only sitting halfway up? struts not strong enough to push it up itself, or is that full height coz the struts arent long enough?

there are 3 HKS accredited tuners in aus, one is sydney (BD4's), one in WA (Xspeed) and one in QLD, but dunno who it is VCAM controller i dont think would be very useful until you get bigger cams and turbo etc

looks like 1jz going from exterior pics

from memory there was a discussion on here about it, maybe on another forum, but think it did work, only one way to find out.... run a red with someone else's plates on your car and wait for them to bitch about getting a fine lol

too much variance. drop some oil down the cylenders and see what happens

cas? edit - just re-read first post, seems more like a dash issue

one guy on here did the actual GTR conversion, think it cost him like 20 grand or more, might have been closer to 30. just go for an aftermarket widebody kit, although there isnt much around for the 34 GTt mate of mine is going this route in his 34 soon but for the life of me cant remember what kit hes getting. shouldnt be too hard to source a GTR style bonnet, hinges would probly be the main issue. look at bodykit places like jetspeed etc for bonnet.