VB-

did u jumpstart it from the boot or under the bonnet? check any inline fuses, and then pull headunit out and check its fuse. hopefully its just a fuse under the dash (or wherever they are in 33's?)

4X60 will be more than 3 times more powerful than your headeck. amp will be 60wrms, your headunit is 50w max. soundstream is very good quality, but damon dupriez, very well know journalist in car audio for like 13 years uses jaycar amps and says he cant see himself changing in the foreseeable future. so thats where i'd start

maybe not aussie parts, but i did vote aussie ftw against most people. they way i took the question, was using, say, a garret turbo over HKS or Trust, its not aussie but it doesnt have that insane pricetag. i persoannly would source parts from other brands than jap, as they, like the europeans, tend to charge insane amounts of money for products that arent that much better than what you can get here at half the price ie garret vs HKS. if money was no object i would go for HKS, but other than that, garret all the way. PS yes i know garret supply HKS, but you cant get HKS spec turbos from garret, and im pretty sure HKS get all the best sh*t, someone feel free to correct me on this

i can go one better ^ the hilux work ute actually shoots it out, so if u dont pull it out early, u got a hot lighter being shot around in the car

its actually an areil atom thats been converted. i thought that guy had something to do with tesla motor company too?

go to SSV, kamikaze are ok too. avoid JSA at all costs. for reference go and have a look around there yard and you will understand.

foot pedal parking brakes - how the f*ck u supposed to drift with that? no commonsense these engineers right hand side of your seat handbrakes (ie HQ holdens etc) foot activated wipers column shift manuals mazda toadracer any drive a daewoo lanos? apart from the wrong side wipers/indicators, anyone else realise that the seat isnt quite central with the pedals/wheel? you sit more to one side and reach across for everything (well i did anyway) tiptronic... lol just shift your auto like p platers in VN's... works for me just fine? new wrx, although i wouldnt say its a design flaw, they just didnt design a rex, they designed a kia rio/mazda 3 mutant and put better badges on it those stupid indicators on late-ish astras etc, how they dont stay up or down, its all electronic, and sometimes they cancel and sometimes they dont and you nearly smash just trying to get the f*cking things to go off, co-incidentally, so you dont cause an accident gotta dissagree with post earlier, supra dashes are mad, cant see anything wrong with them, quite the opposite, i love supras

if your braking syncros,get a dog box with helical cut gears. will be a bit more difficult to drive, but should be easy enough to pick up, and will allow for full throttle upshifts (using the clutch is your choice) but with helical cut gears will remain quiet. if you dont have a problem with braking gears, i'd go for helical cut as your going to be driving on the street, the noise will sh*t you with straight cut gears

i would say that is because skinny tyres are better only to a certain point, ie: if you put bike tyres on it will obviously not grip, but if you put 305s on with will aquaplane real bad, they must have found a happy medium with whatever they use

4 gallons of diesel and a box of matches

1. km's mean nothing as *every* import has its speedo wound back (***not every single one has, but its very rare to find a car with genuine kms, spend more time on #3 as its more important) 2. nfi, get a manual 3. first thing i normally look at is panel alignment, and look at bolts on guards etc to see if they've been removed. the way i see it, every single part that makes up your car is bolted to the chassis, anything thats f*cked can be replaced, no matter how big of a job it may be, it can still be replaced. but if the chassis/body itself has worn impact, it cant be replaced without buying another car basically. next, get them to start it and look out for odd coloured smoke etc, although some blue/gray smoke at startup is normal, as long as its not excessive (should be very little on a new-ish car like a 34gtt) take it for a drive, make sure it pulls hard through the gears. most places will get pissed off at doing this, but f*ck em, if your spening up big, dont take no chances. make sure you go through every gear (not flat out, leave that for 1st and 2nd) make sure the box feels good, and the motor is smooth listen for any wierd noises, check temp guages etc. get a mechanic to compression test etc on the motor, and check the car over, this may be worth a few hundred bucks but well worth it, just make sure u take it to a reputable mechanic, dont bother with RACQ as i've heard they dont know sh*t when it comes to imports (RACV, but im guessing it'll be the same up in QLD) make sure it stops well, a good hard step on the pedal will tell u this, dont warn the person from the shop thats with u if u dont like em lol another thing i like to do is just assess the interiors general condition, but dont put too much importance on this as some places may go over it to freshen it up before they sell it, however if you find a car with 'only' 30,000km and severally worn steering wheel and handbrake, run.... make sure u punch the guy on the way out too i'm no pro but at least that ^ is a start. more ppl will add to it cheers, VB

ahhh i see. pics of your work anyway

350Z, maybe an SS (yes im serious) just rememebred, autech spec S15 would be reasoanble, or a supra SZ-R

call a gearbox place or buy a new box (will probly be easier/maybe cheaper?)

get pics up and make sure that you definately dont have them, after that, dont bother with the workshop, go straight to dotars and get em shut the f*ck down. if they are taking shortcuts when it comes to your safety, f*ck em!

find other people with the same clutch if you can (look around on here for someone local to u) ask if u can see it/maybe even drive it to get a feel for it. if not get opinions from everyone on here, ask what they've got, see how good it is for the street. BUT, first off how much power are you making? i doubt you really need a twin plate, just get a good solid single plate (speak to jim berry, he is a god when it comes to clutches apparently)

why not just buy a bigger throttle body?

few cars have, but dunno if they took pics. world record is like nearly 3 million kms i think, some guy with a volvo

what he said ^ if it has power and the motor isnt running, it sees no vaccum or boost, so it sits at zero, with engine idling it should be in vaccum, so its not geting a signal

lol@thread "look how far back MY speedo was wound"

cant tell you about those two exact clutches, but i general the twin plate will probly be rather difficult to drive with, where as carbon/carbon clutches maintain a very light pedal, and factory-like engagement

sounds like the guage is getting power when it moves to zero, but its not getting a signal beyond that. check cables to it make sure they are all secure

surge tank build doesnt seem too hard, have u got access to some scrap steel pipe?

sorry didnt mean it will definately blow up on you, but i would be keeping a spare 6k around for rebuild/new motor. either that or dont drive it hard

can you weld? make up a surge tank, or buy one? are you looking for a place to mount it/how to mount it? or just sussin it out in general?