VB-

the turbo would spool up before 7k, but just ask him why he would buy a turbo that he thought wouldnt spool up to 7000rpm? even if he did get 350rwkw, it would only be for about 500rpm or so before he had to change gear, he'd be lucky to run a 15sec 1/4 mile. nothing nothing nothing nothing.................. nothing nothing 350RWKW!!!! change gear, nothing...... i rkn the internals would be ok at 250 safe, maybe 270, but it would be pushing it closer to the edge. any zoom fans out there rememebr the "Return of brains" project. he built his 31 on a budget and got 220 at the wheels througha built nissan auto, then converted to manual and got 240, with stock internals AND stock injectors

yeah, i dotn think ur gonna get much support on here, not to sound harsh, its just reality. where was the driveway anyway? is there any rule as to the angle on a driveway? coz it would make sense that any legal height car should be able to get up any driveway, within limits of course... not EVERY car and EVERY driveway, but i know alot of cars that scrape, and aint even that low e.g. a stock skyline drivin through an intersection (not a driveway, but still...) at well below the speed limit scapes coz the road has a big mound in it, and on the dip on the other side, hits the groud with sum force. and this was on a main road crossing the princess highway edit - i am aware the overhang is just as important as ride height, so i dont expect every car to get in every driveway, but most should be able too

well, i havent had alot of hands on expreience with these turbos personally (hence i came here) but i thought the common problem was exactly what beer baron said. the epoxy lets go, 100,000rpm of ceramic gets to know the turbine housing a bit better, and you end up with the rosebud sitting infront of the cat. GTRgeoff makes a good point, i think... i didnt really get alot of it lol, but i still value the input, keep it comin cheers, Ben

got to thinking about this recently, and even did a little research basically it started with searchin for why manafactures use them, it would seem that they help the turbo to spool up quicker, so im assuming ceramic as a matrial is lighter than steel, and im sure you'd all agree, quick spooling is good! hey, they might actually been onto sumthin here with ceramic.... after a while of searching, i kept getting drawn back to the fact that they seem to have this habbit of falling apart, not good, but this seemed strange to me, as i've heard (and i'm sure some of you have too) the stories of manafactures experimenting with ceramic engines, like piston and blocks, but they just didnt wear out, so there was no scope for spare parts sales.... hrmm.... (has anyone on here got evidence/heard the rumors of such testing, or who did it?) so if ceramic is this good, how could the turbos fall apart i thought, well, after stumbling across sum info, it would seem that it is the epoxy that lets go with the heat (my understanding is epoxy is used to hold the turbine wheel on cause cermaic cant be welded to metal) the only thing i've heard against these turbos is the turbine wheels falling off, nothing else really. but they spool up quicker, and theres no reliability issues with ceramic (especially not from heat). if someone was to develope sumthing to hold the wheels on, whether it be an epoxy, or a locking mechanism even, then there could be some serious potential there. turbos could run huge boost cause they wouldnt fall apart from heat stress, and theres less inertia loading (if thats what its called) on lighter wheels, not to mention, would be easier/cheaper to manafacture than titanium, and titanium is where its heading next for the biggest 'n' best. what am i not thinking about here? what have i left out that will confirm that ceramic turbos are just sh*t,please fill me in. let the flaming begin! cheers, Ben

whats the trick for clutchless shifting? just practice or is there a special technique u use? u must be pretty good havin 10 years with a non syncro box, tryin not to use the clutch for long trips must been fun

LOL best advice ever! where does power start to drop off on a stock 34? im assuming he means for all out acceleration, as in a race (on the track of course)

alot of high killomter gts4's go for double that. my mate got his at an exelent price, it was a series 2 manual, 16k. 7.5 for that sounds like a very good price to me

i thought it was wen the synchros dont have to do the work too, like when the speeds match up, so try and find how much rpm u drop on each shift, then add 900 or 1000 rpm, and try n shift there (so the next gear is only at about 1000rpm wen u let the clutch out) i been told that shiftin from 3rd to 4th is easy without the clutch, just to slightly lift off and pull back hard. lol, im assuming (never actually done it myself) this works as the ratios are pretty close... well, compared to the difference in lower gears anyway. anyone done any serious damage by neglecting the clutch?

~30k IMO

u said there was light drizzle, there may have also been sum oil/grease on the road, and as u said, about 3000rpm, ur just startin to make boost. there may be nothin rong with the car (shocks or tires). i was in a 34 gt-t a few weeks back, completely stock (still had stock exhaust and airbox in place) and with the traction control on, it would still step out in second, on a damp road, about 3000rpm, what happened to u sounds pretty normal IMO

my mates 34 revs at just under 3k from memory too, which i thought seemed a little high too, but i guess not. 5th at 60km/hr might even be worse for fuel econemy, if you've only got very light throttle, then ok, but even on a slight uphill, or accelerating from 60km/hr, then there'd be so much load that you'd use heaps of fuel, where as downshifting and revving a little bit harder while ur closer to the meat of the torqu curve, u will use less fuel. thats the theory side of it that i was taught, probly all a load of sh*t tho lol

probably u best bet would be to chase the vaccum lines, and see where they go to. if its before the throttle body, its probly not a guage, but it's probly there for a reason. it may not be necessary, but find out where the line runs to, or wait for sumone whose done a cooler on the same car

depends how bad its shagged, u probly cant use it any more. the idea behind welding, is to stop the side/spider gears turning, so weld them up nice and solid. if u understand how ur diff works, u'll soon understand the principle behind welding side/spider gears. if u dont understnad, play around with it till u do. dont forget the usual speel, its illeagle and dangerous for street use. understeer on the way in, oversteer on the way out

1cm smaller than the cooler pipe? or do u mean a 1cm diameter hose, like a vaccum line? maybe for a guage if its a vaccum line? did u get a set of instructions with the cooler kit, and what cooler kit u got/whered u get it from? if its specific for ur car, it may have a mention for it. from my understanding, the line was there previously, it didnt come with the cooler kit...

yeh, had that vid for a whie, thats Ueo on a practice run. i'd swear he was gonna smash into the pitwalls when fishtailing down the main straight the first time i saw it. awesome vid!

a capacitor just stores up electrical energy, then will release it on demand (like a big bass note) as not to suddenly place massive strain on the battery, and in theory, they're a great thing, but in reality, it seems most people agree, they dont do jack sh*t. maybe in a competition SPL car or sumthing, where they use quick 'burps' to get their highest SPL, it may benefit them, but as an everyday hting, they dont really do that much (thats the general consensus, i've not had any real experience with them). in alot of cars, the stock alternator will be ok for even some serious stereo upgrades (read the quote in my previous post). my understanding of the bigger earthing is that the stock earthing is the thing that cannot carry enough current, not the alternator being too weak. think about running very small fuel lines to your fuel rail. u may have a bosch 044, but it still wont do anything cause the lines can't carry the fuel. gurus please correct me as im sure sumthin above is wrong

http://www.ebridge.com.au/dmdtheimage/

I'm gonna take a stab in the dark and assume you mean the Bee*R bodykit. if so, for 7k, Bee*R kit fitting and painting will be extra of course, and so will the R34 lights etc.

Stop lights dimming something i came across when trying to learn about car audio myself. this article is short and simple, but my knowledge increased 10 fold from it. it says it all in the last two paragraphs: capacitors... lol

would it allow that much tho? its a big drop from jap fuel to aussie fuel, and i believe the ECU compensates with timing adjustment? would it adjust it that far... PS. I'm with SECUR1TY, relax with the insults, u cant just go around hangin shit on peoples parents

there is alot in the name obviously, but some respected car jurno's, namely Jeremy Clarkson (one of the guys on the show Top Gear) has said it is the best car money can buy. he said that the build quality was just that good, and suposedly, the reliability issues have been worked out on the newer models

ur under 18, and only payng 1900 for a turbo 33, lucky you. a mate of mine who is 18, non turbo 33 is paying 2.5k, with just cars of course, but no other place will insure him (forgot to call young and cool, might have to check it out). but by comparison, this is insane as another mate with a turbo 34, 18yo is paying 2.5k aswell. if you havent bought the car yet, maybe consider something else a bit easier to insure? i know it would be a hard thing to do, as im 17, and if i had the dosh, a 33 would be high on the list, but always investigate every option. u might be better off with something local, im not saying buy a cheap slow car, but just find out how much insurance is on some other things. a 32 should be a fair bit cheaper as it was sold locally (will that make all 32s cheaper, or would this only be for the ones actually sold thru australian dealers?). is adelaide a no-turbo for P platers state, or does it have somethin like Vic, with power to weight limits?

http://www.cbn.ne.jp/e/ ID: S68683

i was just on the USS website, lookin thru the cars comin up for auction, and i wanted to know how to find out more about the cars? is there anyway? how can u tell if the car is turbo/non turbo if u cant tell from the styling cues? is there anywhere that will tell me an average sorta price these cars go for, and explain the rating system. i know 1 is crap, 5 is awesome, but what about R and R/A things like that... cheers, Ben

woah guys, relax. i told him to start this thread so he could understand why i tell him not to get it, and i expected him to cop it a bit, but hes bein called a fag, and recomending he should be banned from the forums. damn, ppl come here to ask quesitons, and he obviously didnt know just how bad these things are, now he does, give him a break