mad082

atmo bov is a defect for 2 reasons, 1 is noise, the other is emissions. oddly enough, cars started being fitted with bovs to start with for emissions. as for reflective wipers, i can see why that would be a defect. at night they would be reflecting light back at oncoming drivers. and in most cases, if you are driving in peak traffic times and aren't driving like a dick, you won't get a second look from the police. if you go driving around late at night you are more likely to get pulled over because of the fact that a: there is less traffic on the road, so of course you are going to stand out more, and b: generally speaking, a large portion of the people cruising around at night aren't usually the type to drive like a granny.

front mount intercooler, exhaust, boost wound to 12psi and a bit of extra timing will get you close to 200kw (depending on things like condition of the engine). to get above that will require bigger turbo, aftermarket ecu, bigger injectors, fuel pump and possibly even airflow meter

Moto gp riders still have to find that balance between all out pace and blistering the rear tyres. It's not as much of a fine line as f1 though. It is funny though that the racing category that us generally classed as the pinnacle of motor racing is also the category where they aren't pushing 100% very much. Having said that, i think that the speed difference between what they are driving at and flat out is bugger all (maybe a few tenths), otherwise the last few laps of the gp would see anyone with plenty of fuel left and decent tyres romping through the field.

it sucks about you getting defected, etc, and your car being stolen. however, it is worth pointing out that a RWC doesn't stop you from getting defected. these days a RWC is actually just a safety certificate. it doesn't mean that your car is 100% legal and you can't get defected. for example, it doesn't check emissions.

even at trade prices, etc, you will be spending many thousands to get anywhere near 160kw at the wheels. as i think i said in an earlier post, a mate of mine built a rb30 from the ground up in his r31 and it only made just over 230hp. this thing had a lot of work done. major head work, cams, crank was modified to flow more oil, twin throttle bodies, big injectors, etc, and it reved to 8 or 9k. from what i gather, it may have been the fastest non turbo rb30 in australia (ran a high 13). his old man was an engine builder and had been using rb30s in his speedway cars from the 90's, and was the first person i knew with an imported skyline (had a turbo 31 back in the early to mid 90's). so to try and similar power with 500cc less is going to be hard work, and the car will drive like an absolute dog (i know my mates did). as for comparing new engines to old engines, you can't really. they were built in different eras with different regulations and objectives. newer engines run closer to the limit to begin with as this helps them with emissions, and there isn't much in the way of technology advances that can be used to get bigger gains. but as i also said earlier, i'm happy to be proven wrong about the power you make, but i have a pretty good idea of how poor the reliability is going to be getting anywhere near that power. i know how often my mate had to rebuild his car (but it did have a hard life. was primarily used for drag and burnout comps, but was still registered)

what model golf? if it's just the base model then what you are complaining about has nothing to do with it being fwd. it has more to do with it not being marketed/designed as a sort of sports car. i could use the same sort of analogy as you and say that because the missus SSS is much nicer to drive than my vt wagon, rwd cars are shit compared to fwd.

how much do you want to spend? you won't get a NA skyline fast for cheap. even with a small amount spent you will still get beaten by commodores and falcons in a straight line, and small buzz boxes in the corners. as for fwd feeling wrong, it isn't until you are "hooing" that you actually notice the difference. driving to the shops and back you won't be able to tell the difference at all.

the stock suspension on a 33 does actually look pretty high (big gap between wheels and guards) when it's new. the majority of skylines you see have actually been lowered, or the suspension simply has sagged a bit in the past 20 years or so.

Well the most I've ever seen from a built rb30 is just over 230rwhp (and it revved up to about 8000 rpm from memory), so to get to 350 would be extremely unreliable and probably require race fuel to get there (not to mention a metric shit ton of money). Unless he is talking flywheel horsepower, which would put you back at about 250 to 270hp at the wheels. Then take into account the smaller capacity, I'm guessing you might just crack 200 if you are very lucky. But good luck with it. I'm happy to be proven wrong. I just hope you are happy with the results and don't blow a heap of cash and get nowhere.

don't know if this is an april fools day joke or not. if it is, you posted it after 12pm, so it doesn't count. why would you want to make an engine less powerful than stock? as for what you would need to do to make it work, i wouldn't have a clue. i'm guessing that you would be one of the few people who have decided to go down the route of making a single cam rb25, given that the rb30 only made 115kw in 3L form, so dropping the capacity by 500cc will drop power down to well under 100kw at the flywheel (where as the standard rb25 makes over 140kw at the flywheel). so sure, you may have your reasons for wanting to do this (which i'd like to hear), but the simple fact is that it is a bad idea and all of the replies you are going to get are going to say that too. you are better off using either the complete rb30 engine or a complete rb20 or rb25 engines. any of those three are going to make more power than what you are planning on doing. as well as being much cheaper.

the only thing that will let you blow the doors off a turbo car when it comes to winding roads would be some sort of smoke screen or dropping tyre spikes out the back. good tyres, decent suspension and bigger brakes will make you as fast through the corners as a turbo car with the same stuff, but as soon as they get on the gas they will be faster. you can make it more responsive with shorter diff ratios as suggested and advancing the timing so it's pinging it's arse off, but you are still pushing shit up hill, so to speak. the rb20 isn't exactly responsive to start with compared to other engines out there. driving style will make the biggest difference. drive around keeping it above 4000rpm will help. or pull the engine out and bolt in a rb25 (although if you have a r34 25gt then you already have a rb25 in there) or sell it and buy something lighter and more powerful. it may be fwd, but there are plenty of light hatches that will beat a NA skyline both in a straight line, and in the bends.

oddly enough, the bars fit pretty well. there was a guy in gympie (think he was even a member on here) putting a rb25 into a commodore ute and he had the r33 front bar on it. didn't look that bad (from a fitment point of view)

just change your routine slightly and that will make life easier for you. just start letting the pump prime before you put your seat belt on. my commodore daily developed an issue lately where it wouldn't start cleanly without priming first, so i just started doing what i said and it made life a little bit better.

rarely hitting boost will generally mean better economy, but not in the case of a leaking exhaust. in normal cases, using lighter amounts of throttle means less boost, which means better economy for 2 reasons. 1: less air going into the system, so less fuel is required, and 2: lower throttle percentages means the ecu is reading in lower load cells, so it will generally stay in closed loop (using o2 sensor feedback) and be running on leaner AFRs. but in the case of an exhaust leak, you will have less efficient exhaust flow, and you will be using more throttle (so higher load values) to go anywhere, so while the boost levels may be lower, you would be using more fuel than if you were to have no leaks and be driving around at the same boost levels (which would mean less throttle than you currently are).

it's more likely that the o2 sensor wire was bumped when you changed the ecu and that's causing the different reading from the air fuel gauge (given that the stock ecu should read richer than a tuned ecu). those things are useless anyway. they read off the stock o2 sensor which is a narrow band. your car can actually be leaning out and they can still read rich, because they are designed to work between 14:1 and 15:1 air/fuel ratio, which is lean (it's fine for cruising along, but very lean for hard acceleration). 12:1 is the ideal AFR for full throttle, and up will into the 13's is lean, but will still read as rich on the air fuel gauge. also, an ecu shouldn't lose it's settings just from unplugging it. there is also the possibility that the o2 sensor is simply dead. with the stock ecu in, and most likely with the mines as well, the afr should fluctuate between rich and lean at idle and when cruising along with light throttle. as for the running rough, try letting the fuel pump prime before starting the car (turn the ignition to "on" for a few seconds before turning it all the way to "start"). if the fuel pump is aftermarket then it may need to prime before it will have enough fuel in the system to run properly. but then that will only affect it for a few seconds after starting. if it is rough all the time, then it could be coil packs, spark plugs, ignitor module, afm, or one of many other things causing the issue. and if the car still had no rev limit on the stock ecu then there is something else going on. the stock limit should be about 7500 to 8500 rpm (depending on the accuracy of the tacho, i've seen them be over 500rpm out at redline compared to a pfc handset reading).

Yeah that is my biggest gripe with vettel. most if the time the team favour him. The one time they ask him to play second fiddle he ignores it. I think webber has the right to be pissed. But don't get me wrong, i would've preffered to see them properly race to the end, which would've meant webber not turning the engine down to start with, so he may not have gotten caught until later in the race anyway, by which time vettel's tyres may have started to go off a bit. I've never been a fan of team orders, from back in the day when barichello was told to pull over and let schummacher past. There are the odd exception (such as a last lap battle where the team doesn't want them to bin the car, or if they are on totally different pit strategies, so they tell a driver to hold for a lap or 2)

The r33 runs an electric hicas system, unlike the hydraulic system in the s13 and r32. Are you sure the rack seals are leaking and it isn't oil coming from somewhere else?

Just treat it like any other car. Service every 5000 to 7500kms, depending on the driving you do. Just let it idle for a couple if seconds before driving off, and then take it easy for the first few mins until it comes up to temperature. No need to let it sit and idle once you pull up, just drive sensibly for the few mins before you stop. This does more to cool things than letting it sit and idle, where temperatures can actually increase. remember to run it on 98 octane fuel.

If you don't get the whoosh when you open the filler cap then either the cap isn't sealing, our the filler neck isn't sealed properly. That would explain the lack of pressure in the fuel line

winning bonus going to webber instead of vettel maybe?

so what they're saying is that they've favoured him too much and vettel thinking he is better than sliced bread has come back to bite them a little bit and i think webber would've actually won if he hadn't backed off because he was told to. i wouldn't be surprised if that happened before the last stop, given that vettel was able to close a few second gap in 1 lap on new tyres. and had they pitted webber before vettel at the last stop i think he would never have gotten close to him

it may just be stuff that was in the radiator. flushing the radiator does bugger all to get stubborn junk out of the radiator. the only way to properly clean it is to take it to a radiator place and have them open it up and clean it out.

there isn't really much of a solution to that, other than getting an aftermarket pod filter heat shield to use instead of the airbox

if the ac has been removed then there is no point dicking around with the wiring, etc. as said, the ac has very little effect on the ecu, other than altering the AAC valve to make sure it still idles with the extra load on the engine. and if the compressor has been removed then the ecu won't try and do anything. it will think the ac is off as it requires a signal back from the compressor to say that it's engaged

so you are saying that you have to rev the car harder to get it to move? it could be one of a few issues. it could be a siezed brake (or hand brake), diff issue or clutch/gearbox issue. might be worth starting by jacking the car up and seeing how easy it is to spin each of the wheels. that may also help you isolate whether it's front or rear diffs causing the issue (if there is a diff issue).