Ghostrider

supposed to read .................................. swap "the hot plates" on Cheers, D

I'm in need of a series 1 instrument cluster for my track toy & I might be persuaded to swap on the DR for Ozzie Spec as it wont matter on the track car. Cheers, D

lights have been received and are badly damaged/cracked. Not road worthy at all. what to do? Looks like he's building himself a real reputation among the enthusiasts here. Not only is he a lost cause in communication skills, but a liar as well. Hope it all works out. Cheers, D

The BRIDE seat is gotta go, it's built for little japs I'm sure. 2 laps around my backyard and I'm sure I would be a cripple. Will post some pics of the sump & pick up shortly. Cheers, D

Yes! PM me please Cheers, D

I'll reply by email tomorrow night with some luck. Picking up the DR tomorrow afternoon, hey hey! Cheers, D

R34, I was merely pointing out the obvious. This car is for sale for $10,000.00 and I would expect the buyer would like to drive it on the road .... registered & legal? The first 4 S13 mods would need to be engineer assessed, because they are structural changes to an ADR affected vehicle. The 4 point harnesses would have to go and ADR approved seat belts fitted in place of. Harnesses of any kind don't carry ADR or AS classifications. The new clutch, silicone piping etc, might suggest it was the same car that had an RB in it previously. The hydraulic handbrake, battery in cabin, starter switch set up, fuel cell & locked diff are all subject to engineer & ADR classification so legal registration could be very expensive if possible at all which are costs on top of the 10 grand being asked. And if it has a stand alone programmable ECU, for a blue slip in NSW or it's equivalent in any other state, I would think be no chance, the registering authorities aren't keen on a/mkt programmable ECU's at any time, least of all for initial registration. This car as it sits is a race / track car and as it has no credentials, 10G's is a lot of money & therefore the market he has is extremely limited. Gill, I apologise if you took it that I was trying to bury the car, but the obvious is the obvious and I am just making it sure those that look are aware of what is likely to be in front of them. It could be a smart car, and for owning it just 3 months and getting out of it, would suggest something is very wrong with the car or your son has found what I have suggested, to be very true. Cheers, D

Tut Tut Tut! You don't like the truth I see. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

www.adaptronics.com.au might help as well. On the web site they list dealer/tuners and I think you will find one in your area to talk to. Mine is costing $2500.00 supplied, fitted, wired & tuned as opposed to about $4000.00 ++ for an Autronics SM4. And I took out a Mines ECU. For racing, I don't think the R180 will withstand the beating. An R200 is the Jap IRS equivalent to Ford's 9 inch. Injectors standard have a barbed top, for a hose & clamp fitting, where most of the newer types are O'Ring type and to fit the correctly you would need to buy a billet fuel rail to suit if it's not a detriment to your class. What does puzzle me is why you wouldn't stick with the L Series originally fitted to your KHR30. I was on the way to 300kW at the wheels from my L28et, before I bought the KDR30. Cheers, D

Awesome? Somebody says! With these mods, as it stands it will NEVER pass for road use, so it's a track car your buying or have bought and just 3 months ago????? What's wrong with it I would be asking???????? The KDR30 I just bought was for track use only, but as I have an KHR30 as well, I already have lots of bits I can swap into it to make it better & my KHR30 will be a better, nicer, road car as a result. Remember a track car has virtually no rules to abide by, no ADR's to be concerned with and the sky is the limit. Cheers, D

Hey My Names Marc Im Living in Melbourne I have owed a few skylines over the years in New Zealand where I am originally from I currently have a HR30 skyline Coupe which I am building into a race car. And it has proven to be very difficult to get advice on a car of this age, now personally I know a fair amount about these cars but there are still plenty of gaps and this forum, looks like a place that can help? The car its self is a 1983 HR30 Japanese import coupe, So far what I have done is.. I have a Skyline FJ20ET engine which we are mounting further back in the engine bay, it sits just behind the front wheels. -R180 Lsd Diff .......................................... You should be using an R200 LSD -R32 Type M turbo Brakes at the front The car is pretty much stripped out The first thing I want to no is can R31 front body parts be fitted to them ie Bumper guards bonnet and lights? ......................... Short version, NO! Second what’s a good computer to run with an FJ20 turbo? I wish to run anti lag and about 350ish Hp (I cannot make major HP changes due to its class) to run 350 hp will I need an upgrade of injectors or will the factory units cope? ........................... I'm using an Adaptronics, if you do a search on this forum, there is a thread about them in "Forced Induction" it's the new boy on the block, a spin off from Autronics & half the cost. Does everything you want it to do. Injectors are far to small standard at 375cc, only good for about 350hp at the flywheel. You will need 440 at least & probably 460 or 550 maybe, yet most of these are 11mm O'Ring type, but it's up to you if you want to put the hose connection on them. Third have other users moved there engines back in the car? If so what solutions did you come up with for the brake booster? Forth lol. Can rack and pinion steering be fitted to these cars with out a major fabrication? .................... NO! it's a pain in the ass, but not impossible Sorry about these questions and if they are a bit obscure but there are just so many things to do to it Thank you very much for help with any of these things, there is more I wish to know but these are a few to start.. Thanks Again Marc Cheers, Dennis

I'm told this has been for sale for some time. Nearly since Adam was a boy? And from people that have seen it, it's about $10,000.00 too dear. I just bought an Iron Mask DR30 from Sunshine Coast Queensland for $3400.00 + $830.00 to get it to Sydney and it's by far a better deal than you're offering for nearly triple the money. Maybe you have over capitalised in the car, maybe you have a far to limited market to sell to, maybe it be yours forever under these conditions. Cheers, D

I have a set of 460cc O'Ring type Hi Imp RX7 injectors, including plugs if your interested, just need to use a VL resistor pack with them. Also a set of 7 x 550cc O'Ring type Low Imp RX7 injectors. Price will/could be very affordable. Cheers, D

First look under the car yesterday! Sump looked like it had a head on with Ayers Rock & Oil Pick up was stuffed. Fixed this with another sump & pick up from SSS Automotive. Rust is prevalent in front strut towers and spare wheel well and this will be repaired by welding plates over the damaged areas. Both sills appear to be solid at this stage so they will be treated with appropriate conversion & sealing products. Otherwise it's a good thing and will make a fun & exciting car to drive. Cheers, Dennis

Never heard of ADAPTRONICS before Dennis How much are they? $2500.00 supplied, fitted, wired & tuned and the Autronic SM4 is upwards to $4000.00 for same deal. Have a look at this; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ad...;hl=Adaptronics See what you think. Cheers, Dennis

The mines is out, gone for ever, it's in the boot of my Honda and it's up for grabs if anyone wants it. Spec'd for DR30 with hi flo T03 as best I know. I will also have a PRofec Electronic Boost Controller, A speed Meter, The A/C but Benny wants that. Grey over grey in near perfect condition door trims plus back seat is also going going gone PM me if you want anything. Cheers, D

L28et are 265cc or FJ20et are 375cc. Personally I'm going to use FJ20et in my L28et in my PNV, because I'm going a bit ballistic with the new DR30 acquisition. Cheers, D

UPGRADES are on the way! Fitting a new stand alone ADAPTRONICS ECU fror the SAU track day at Oran Park June 12th. AFM is going in the bin forever. "Got a DR30 Mines ECU going cheap if anyone is interested" More to come soon. Cheers, Dennis

My new aquisition is 1105kg DRY according to the JDM brochures. Cheers, D

Wouldn't an KHR31 be a better drifter as it has IRS as opposed to a live rear axle in the Oz produced & delivered car? And it already has the RB DOHC engine & LSD. Cheers, D

A couple of years back, I think in the first year of Drift Nationals, a gold HR31 was in the field sponsored by R31 House and I thought it went very well, it's only failing that I could see was the dill behind the wheel. Compared to the talents of others on the day, it could have performed much better with a better steerer. Just my humble opinion, from a spectator, not a drifter competitor. Cheers, D

so they use a tapered bearing, No I farked that up, sorry! There is 2 bearings, an inner and an outer, normal roller bearings, but they are sealed. I removed the inner seals & washed the grease out, to re pack with synthetic, but the bearings still have to be drifted on to the axle. That's if in fact it's the hub bearings stuffed. It's a few years since I did my rears on the PNV. Do Drew's test first to confirm Cheers, D

If it's the same as the DR/HR/MR30 the hub has to be dismantled and it's a whole lot easier on a bench than in the car, so the trailing arm would have to be removed. An Harmonic Balancer pulley works well getting the hub apart. The bearing cones can be drifted out and tapped/drifted back in, but just be sure not to set them in off centre (crooked) as you might bend the cone or break it. Once you have the bearings out, take them to any bearing sales outlet and they will match the numbers. Ask nicely and you'll get 50+% discount off retail and you will save a bomb against genuine Nissan for same thing. A steel drift works getting them out, but a brass one is best putting them in, less chance of damaging the cone with a brass drift. Failing this, get a shop to press them in & out. Then pack the bearings with high temp wheel bearing grease of about 220 viscosity or better and install in correct cones and re assemble hub. My personal favourite is Mobiltemp 220 100% synthetic grease, but it's hard to get and only available in 2.2kg cans. Cheers, D

"Cutting back on hamburgers and beer will get you 5 kg depending on how much you eat now. I reckon it woudl get me 10 kg!" Hamburgers I can live without, but beer, that's entirely something different. Cheers, D

Track Day is here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...Gp-t268431.html The Door when I saw it, was wrapped in bubble wrap, so it was left where it was. It's not going anywhere for now. Cheers, Dennis