Ghostrider

I was planning to test against each bar on the car, as opposed to just working out the load force equivalents. Cheers, D

And $7500.00 ............................... your dreaming!!!!!

We wanted me to pay $30.00 as 50% of the alleged postage when in fact it was only $20.90. So! He wasn't doing any deals, but getting $110.00 for his bar? The outcome is he still owns the bar AND from my recent calculations the difference between a SOLID 24mm front bar (Selby's) and the OEM R31 HOLLOW 25mm front bar is very, very, marginal and for my money, not worth the purchase at any cost, of a new 24mm solid bar. Cheers, D

Interesting outcome to this ??????????????????????????? Made the offer of $100.00 including postage & called Jon on his mobile. He claimed freight to be $60.00 and asked if I would go halves, to which I initially agreed. But when I checked Aust Post calculator with dimensions from my own custom made & R31 front bar (105 x 10 x 37cm) the cost for regular parcel post was $20.90 on cubic measurement & weight up to 10kg? This guy is a real gem, wants to stiff the only person showing interest in something he has been trying to sell for over 6 months & then has the audacity to say he will use it in his next coupe, when it happens??????? I think he should be given a very wide birth. Cheers, D

Maybe, what's your company car? Should I know this? lol How could you miss it, it was parked at the back of the carpark outside the fence in the bus stop. About 50ft long, white, with Murrays down the side. Some suggested I dyno it lol, only 380HP but torque over 1200Nm from it's 11L's. Cheers, D

I'll check mine today and get back to you on the pumps, because I have both here. As for oil pressure, just pack the spring with a washer or two and don't go overboard, it's amazing what one washer will do to the oil pressure. Start with one and see what you get. It's a trick we used back in the BMC A & B series engine days. Remember where Nissan got their 1200 Bluebird engine from, it was a re designed Austin A40 engine, from blueprints they bought from BMC in UK. Cheers, D

You see my company car there Shell? Cheers, D

Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm! No understand you??? The SWR pump is an High Volume pump & where is there a spring anywhere in the pump??? What longer rotor??? And the spring that I know relating to pressure is in the relief valve. JFYI .................. The H4 pump is getting thin on the ground & my question to what has your motor got now was in relation to the oil pump, not what your doing??? Cheers, D

Sent him an email about an hour ago? Cheers, D

Jon, Make the price $100.00 including postage to Sydney & you have a deal. Your call, come back to me with your response. Cheers, D

Why? I wonder would anyone want an Whiteline front bar for $100.00 when the ozzy R31 front is a bolt on affair and bigger (25mm) and better for about $50 in the local wrecker (Auto Parts Recycler) Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!

Last time I spoke to Datsport, they were quoting $3500.00 for the rear adjustable conversion to an R30. The SWR conversion is only to the trailing arms, not the cross member as well, like Datsport wanted to do. It's big dollars no matter which way you choose, just to gain a lousy degree or so less camber. Cheers, D

Stewart Wilkins does an Hi Volume pump, brand new for $170.00 including GST plus postage that he uses in all his rally rebuilds. He tells me it is every bit as good as the genuine H4 pump out of the Auto 280ZX Turbo. http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/ It's probably as good a price as you will get in US$ plus postage. I have a couple of under models, the manual L28ET came out with an H3.3 & some L20ET's came out with the H3.3 or H3. What's in your motor now??? Cheers, D

That looks really smart Ricky, but can I be the devils advocate and make some suggestions. If your staying with the flares, would it not look better with the metal under them gone. eg cut out to about flare mounts & where the number plate mounts, would it no look lots better with a fill under the plate, could be as easy as a piece of ABS plastic or perspex cut to size to suit. It looks a bit ordinary as it is for such a nice car. Cheers, D

The SWR idea uses a sliding rose joint affair to adjust the rear camber and the cost is about $1000.00 for the mods. If your competing your car in anything other than rallies, the rose joint puts you in Sports Sedan class. Cheers, D

Ricky, Why do you want power?????? I'm going with 8.7:1 in my PNV and should get about 400+ Nm @ around 4500 from my 2818cc L20et, with maybe 200HP at the wheels, on less than a bar of boost. The trick is let it breath and boost that, if you want torque, bugger the HP, you cant use HP till at the top end and how often are you there. A very wise, now rather old US gentleman was once quoted to say "Horsepower SELLS cars, but torque WINS races" and that gentleman was none other than Carol Shelby. Why do you want HP when you have an L30 & triple 45's???? 9~9.5:1, cam etc would be just about the best for you. Cheers, D

Off the top of my head ................. about $7~10,000.00 in this condition, but PM Cazz and ask her the same question. She is the guru of SVD GTSII's. Cheers, D

JMHO, but better putting your efforts into finding rocking horse poo. The people that pay big money for 240K's live in Dubai and you probably can't compete with them. I know of one that recently got sold to connections from Dubai for over $14000.00. Cheers, D

Ravenoak's DR & R34's would be a close tussle for the best I have seen. They are both excellent cars in their own right. As I said before, if I can make my PNV as good as them I'll be over the moon. As for clutches ............ driveability can only be attained with a single plate clutch & today's technology might just give it to you. Have you researched maybe bigger diameter, heavier diaphram etc etc etc. I will be looking at all these options when I need to replace the clutch in my DR. For my HR I have it all sorted I think, I'm looking at an Z32 TT 250mm single 6 puk clutch & modified VL Turbo assembly. Cheers, D

I saw one of them once, it was in a rack at Moore Spares in Campbelltown, not quite complete but very nearly. When he moved up the road to become a Parts Plus agency, it went to Sims Metal ...................... what a shame, another great car became razor blades. Cheers, D

Ricky, If your inclined to spend some more of your hard earned dollars and want to make your drive shaft assembly stronger, go look for a D21 Navara in a wrecker and you might be surprised to find the back half from the centre bearing is same as a DR. Cheers, D

All I can say is ............................... I hope my PNV looks as good when it's finished? Cheers, D

You remember this????????? and my response about not getting that much power to the ground??????????????? A few enthusiasts that know the facts supported my theory and you got aggressive. Whilst everybody blows smoke up your ass and you can throw out your chest and say great! it's my car and everybody loves it your happy, but when someone offers some criticism, your not a happy little camper anymore. You have absolutely no idea what I drive and the Hyundai comment certainly showed your immaturity. I personally think your car looks a damned site nicer now it's not all blue & the poxy bonnet up in the air look has gone. I wonder what you would say if you knew I have an 4.0L n/a MX83 Cressida that has done a 14.709sec pass at WSID, 1 of the only 3 KHR30 Paul Newman Version Skylines in Oz, an KDR30 Skyline track car and an U13 Bluebird SSS as a daily driver and in May 1974 set a series production under 2L lap record (49.6sec) at Oran Park in an 1973 180B SSS Coupe. You made a comment about likeing the stock front look on R34's car, yet your going head to head with the one person that could probably assist in supplying you with one. I think that's really funny! You wont get diddly squat more comments from me, but don't come back with your tail between your legs after you do what you say and what we suggest has happened, looking for the right answers. Cheers, D

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm you would like to think that eh? You miss the bit about me not trying to bag your car too??????? Changing the turbo & tune .................... mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm? You think that's all it's going to take? With this so called 550/600HP doing your "Glory Runs", what you going to do when your Hoosiers grip so well you tear the half shafts, or more possible, the CV joints to bits and go absolutely nowhere??? I have looked at what you bought and to get it ready for hillclimbs, a sport of about 700m max in length and sometimes as short as 3-500m where response means EVERYTHING, I think a few on this forum might agree that not only turbo & tune, but injectors, fuel rail, throttle body, plenum and a whole lot more might have to be changed to make it competitive. Other than glory runs, why not just make it a drag car where horsepower is everything and response a lot less necessary. From what I see you bought, you could have a very quick strip car, but circuit/hillclimb is a different thing altogether. Have a look at this and see how you compare; http://nissanking.sphosting.com/r30/index.html And I'm not bagging your car, just pointing out the obvious that you so easily want to overlook. And you speak so well, maybe I should take you home to meet mother, I'm sure she would be suitably impressed. D

Sorry guys if I'm a little bewildered. This has been posted in Classic section and last year a grand total of 145 threads were started, how would this ever kind of suggest "bit too cluttered"??? It has been suggested it's a "bit too DEAD". Cheers, D