Ghostrider

NO! C210/211 DBA #601 Cheers, D

It's about 45mm thick in A5 format?

Steve, There was a set (pair) on Yahoo Auctions Japan I saw the other day. Might be worth a look, I was brousing off Import Monsters site. Cheers, D

How about from a Nissan parts cattledog, will that suffice? Weather Strip Assy FR RH 80830-21S00 Weather Strip Assy FR LH 80831-21S00 Chears, Dennis

I have a set here so I'll weigh them tomorrow and let you know more. D

Postage is going to be a killer, can you weigh them so I can guestimate the postage please. D

These are standard HR/MR30 rotors, not DR as you imply. Still want to know where these have to come from before I make my mind up. Cheers, D

Where are you please?

Only fits series 1 too. Does not fit series 2 fronts and I have an ALL Chrome one in Sydney if your interested.

Those wheels look cool and +34 should work very well. D

I got 16 x 8 +38 rears & 16 x 7 +38 front My DR30 track car uses 16 x 8.5 rear & 16 x 7.5 front or 16 x 8.5 rear & 16 x 8 front, depending on tyres used or fitted to wheels. D

The orig question was how to clean???????? Mags knows only to well how bug & tar remover works but is fairly aggressive. D

In 1973/74 Nissan and I guess every other Japanese vehicle manufacturer was the using BAKED ENAMEL where everything local was still using duco and that is where I guess is the problem. I had an 1973 180B SSS purchased from Capital Motors - Auburn NSW in September 1973 and in December 1973 it was parked in The Avenue Hurstville and it was side swiped by some unknown cockhead doing a burn out whilst turning the corner. It was originally "baked enamel" and the repairer used duco and as it did not oxidise the same as the original colour it was 2 different colours 6 months later and no matter that the damaged area was resprayed twice, the car was always forever more 2 colours. And the insurance company refused to do a total respray to make it all the same colour even when it was only 3 months old at the time of the accident. Cheers, D

Standard R30 Alloy wheels were +25mm offset but anything 8" wide +38 is good and acceptable. Cheers, D

Solvex

Looks like a nice little pick up from the pics, well done! The L20ET is very strong for it's design parameters, but remember the technology is 30+ years old. They can benefit enormously if allowed to breath better. If you can get yourself either an non intercooled FJ20ET turbo with the 0.63 rear housing (a direct replacement & no mods required) or an RB20DET turbo (more modern technology) & slightly larger injectors from an S130 280ZX Turbo (265cc) Z31 300ZX turbo (270cc) both hose tail connected & a direct replacement to your stockies and increase the boost marginally, (stay under a bar for some reliability) you will experience quite a bit of difference. Factory spec on the L20ET is 104Kw at the flywheel & a loss of about 25% through the drivetrain is about normal, so 78Kw at the wheels is about you factory standard spec, yet with the few little mods I have suggested you could be looking at about 120Kw (about 160HP) at the wheels, which represents about a 50% improvement. As you are in Canada, you should find the bits relatively easy to find, because the 280ZX Turbo that was very common in USA is the host of all the parts you need. The non intercooled FJ20ET Turbo was exactly the same as that fitted to the L28ET 280ZX Turbo and the injectors the same. Check ebay.com as you will find new and reco injectors often at great prices too. Don't go overboard on injector sizing unless you're building a new & bigger engine such as L24, L26, or L28. Also remember your C210 is a front sump engine and all Zeds are rear sump engines so mods have to be done to change them to front. If you can find an L24E engine from 1984/85 Nissan Maxima from the US, that would be the perfect replacement as it is already front sump design & with an L26 or L28 crank & rods plus 1.0mm over bore you will have a great capacity to work with (2627cc) and then the sky is the limit and the big plus, to the untrained eye under the bonnet is going to look absolutely stock standard, yet you could have over 200Kw at the wheels. Hope this helps, Cheers, Dennis from Ozland

Not self centering is often an over adjusted steering box issue. Is there any play in the wheel when stationary? Wheels?? I have 16 x 7 on front at +38 & 16 x 8 on rear also at +38 with zero scrubbing, so a -9 offset might just be the problem, as stock wheel offset was about +25. Cheers, D

Get the Pintara version, because if you stiffen the front as much as you would with a Skyline 25mm unit & leave the rear relatively stock, you're likely to understeer yourself off the road. It's all about balance. When you get the front bar, go buy the universal shackle & respective 23mm poly bushes to suit and use bolts instead of the factory shackle & having to mod the bush to suit. Cheers, D

R31 Pintara .................... not U12 as in FWD version. The R31 Pintara & R31 Skyline both have same shape front sway bars, only Pintara is 23mm & Skyline is 25mm. Cheers, D

Nick, This is what I did with my sway bar. It was custom made by the Whiteline hot shop when it was at Minto just near my place in 20mm and as you can see it doesn't have the kink in it where the factory designed it for easy handbrake adjustment. I made it in 20mm as the factory mount bushes could still be used. As it is shorter by about 100mm it will in fact ACT stiffer than the factory unit, how stiffer nobody knows, but it will act like it. Mated with the factory R31 Pintara 23mm bar I think it will be an excellent combination depending on your choice of other components in the suspension. Dampers & springs & bushings etc. Cheers, D

They are! But getting very hard to find these days for an R30 unless you pay the dollars and get it from Japan. Lots of people forget about the fifth spring. Cheers, D

I am amused how you managed to mount the rear sway bar with the supplied Whiteline GP D shackle & bushes because the R30 rear mounts are not flat. I had custom bushes made for the track DR30 to suit the standard mounts plus I had the whiteline hot shop when it was in Ingleburn custom make some redesigned rear bars, but still 20mm & I'm using 23mm R31 Pintara front bar @ the great price of $25.00 at the local wrecker. If you want to use poly bushes in the rear bar mounts, get 280ZX if R30 cant be got and if not in Oz they are easily available in USA off ebay and thanks to the $$$$ we get our bits cheaper from there now The R31 Skyline bar of 25mm is also an option but in my opinion it's to big and the balance is all a miss & I think tend to understeer something cronic on a track. If your not in a mad rush, I'm getting some D shackle mounts made so that the stock off the shelf a/mkt D bushes can be used instead of having to make special bushes every time the sway bar dia changes. Wheel weights are a miniscule problem as I see it unless of course your chasing 0.001 sec a lap, but I must admit the wheels Mags is talking about were pretty heavy. Cheers, D

Whiteline ONLY make one (1) bar for the R30 Skyline and it looks nothing like either of these AND they certainly do not make anything adjustable for the R30. What are you using now is the first question I have to ask? Next question is what springs are you using front & rear to go with the new sway bars, poundage would be a good start?? For the front, either the Aust delivered R31 Skyline or Pintara are good upgrades depending on your use??? It is of course a question of balance and not necessarily just bigger diameter bars that should be used and when using bigger diameter rear bars bushes become an issue because off the shelf GP D shackles cannot be used successfully. Talk to me and tell me what your thinking and I'll try to point you in the best direction from my research & experimentation. Cheers, D

Why a VH41 when VH45 is identical external dimension? Have a talk to Mark at MRC Dyno Services http://www.mrcdyno.com.au/ as he has built an VH45TT HR31 coupe that is now for sale, sporting 360rwkw. Cheers, D