White GTS-T

Piggaz, were you running the plug and play loom with you HKS DL II, or was it wired in? And did you happen to pin point the HKS box as the problem and not the standard ignitor? I'm just curious as I've been running one for 5+ years with no problems.

Thanks blah_blah, here's to hoping.

Wow, praise from Ceaser. I'm currently running 17 × 9.5 +12 with 214/45/17 Federal's. But (see below) this will change soon. The Ikeya arms have so much adjustment it's ridiculous. They can be adjusted shorter (yes shorter) than the standard arms or well beyond the length of R33 items. I actually have another brand new set, still in an unopened box to fit, so if you want the ones currently fitted, let me know. In regards to the current state of the car, I may have jumped the gun a bit. With the help of a couple of experienced panel beater mates, we measured the chassis dimensions using this as a guide. As it turns out, it's only a couple of mm out diagonally across the bay, which is within spec. It was just the left front lower rad support that needed some love. After pulling the rad support straight(ish) we trial fitted the GT-R guards. And as you can see eveything lines up pretty well considering. I'm just not sure about the GT-R guards? They're pretty big. Although I'm yet to touch the wheel alignment, and I could easily go up a tyre size or two. Thoughts?

Copied from NGK's website. "This is for racers only !! Indexing refers to a process whereby auxiliary washers of varying thickness are placed under the spark plug's shoulder so that when the spark plug is tightened, the gap will point in the desired direction. However, without running an engine on a dyno, it is impossible to gauge which type of indexing works best in your engine. While most engines like the spark plug's gap open to the intake valve, there are still other combinations that make more power with the gap pointed toward the exhaust valve. In any case, engines with indexed spark plugs will typically make only a few more horsepower, typically less than 1% of total engine output. For a 500hp engine, you'd be lucky to get 5hp. While there are exceptions, the bottom line is that without a dyno, gauging success will be difficult".

Nice and subtle. Some Ganador carbon side mirrors, would top it off nicely.

Hello all, Recently I purchased two of these harnesses, only to later realise that I had been sent two right hand side specific harnesses. Due to the fact that the exchage/refund period had expired, I bought a brand new left hand side specific harness. I only changed out the left hand side specific buckle and lap belt. The lap belt has never been used, it has seen zero road time and was only trial fitted before I realised the mix up. TL;DR: For sale: 1 Black Willans Silverstone V6 Saloon 3"/3" harness. Right hand side only " The Silverstone V6 is a 6 point saloon race / rally harness from Willans. Featuring 3" wide shoulder and 3" wide lap straps with clip in fittings and a V type crutch strap. The V6 harness comes fitted with lightweight alloy adjusters on all straps and an aircraft style quick release buckle" Included in the box are forged 15/16ths UNF eyelet bolts (standard seat belt bolt thread/pitch) and fitting instructions. They also look great when fitted. Price: $400.00. (A lot less than I payed) I'm located in Horsham Victoria, and don't mind driving part way for pick-up, but delivery can also be arranged. Thanks, Tim

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153378-r32-have-your-overheat-fan-turn-on-with-your-ac/

A minor update. I installed the front subframe collars. I then decided to revisit the harness mounting. Previously, I had restricted the full distance the seat could travel, which is now rectified. However, upon finally getting to adjust the passenger side belt length, I realised that I had been sent two right hand side specific harnesses. It's my fault, I should have realised sooner, so if anyone wants a brand new harness, let me know. To cheer myself up, it was time for a drive. I couldn't find the trade plate anywhere, so I put the plates back on and decided to chance it. I'm happy to report that the car feels fantastic. It's quite firm, but not harsh. There's still some compliance there, and unlike solid bushes, there's hardly any NVH. I was then on a bit of a high, so I bit the bullet and pulled the damaged front guard etc off. It has been a long eight months and my fears were finally realised when I saw the damage. I've got someone coming to look at it tomorrow, so I'll have a better idea of what's involved then. But I'm kind of in two minds about it, as to whether to get it all fixed properly, or just slap it back together and drive the f**king thing. But I did get these braces installed, so I've got that going for me, which is nice.

Also, It's interesting to note that the angle of the subframe has definitely changed. The geometry changes built into the subframe bushes is quite noticeable. This may be exacerbated by the fact that my standard bushes had sagged however. But it is one of the main reasons for choosing the Nismo bushes. Time will tell.

So I somehow managed to drag myself back to the workshop today. The rear subframe is now in and torqued up. It makes the rest of the car look filthy. The new handbrake shoes in place and adjusted up. With the brakes back in, I fitted the new N1 master cylinder and bleed the whole system with some fresh Motul brake fluid. Prior to fitting it though, I took the opportunity to replace the fuel filter with a new genuine item. I'm yet to drive it, but the brake pedal feels like standard again. Hopefully there'll be more updates tomorrow.

On your build plate, next to the paint code, is a letter. This letter denotes the interior colour/trim. For example, mine is 326 G. The paint code is crystal white and the interior colour/trim is black. Or, alternatively, you could just put your VIN through Nissan's FAST for the same information.

So as you may have guessed, I took a few days off leading up to the Christmas break and spent them working on the car in the workshop. I came in early Monday morning to get a head start. By the time the boss arrived, the car was in pieces and he wasn't too impressed when he realised that he was going to have one less hoist, but I digress. Seeing as how the entire rear brake assembly had to be pulled apart, I removed the standard brake master cylinder and bench bleed the new N1 item with some fresh fluid. I also decided to replace the hand brake shoes with some new ones. And after pressing off the old wheel bearings, I cleaned up the old hubs in preparation of fitting the new superseded bearings. I got sick of using old bearing races, sockets etc in the press, so I bought this nice Super-Pro kit. It has already paid for itself. I rather enjoyed taking my time and getting everything looking nice. It was refreshing not having the pressure of working to a dead line, and getting paid to work on your own car is a bonus. With everything painted and the subframe collars fitted, it's ready to go back in. I'm currently away doing the whole family thing for Christmas, so hopefully motivation remains high and I can get some more work done over the break.

Guys, it's finally happening.

That 90's nostalgia.

I don't know if this will be of any help, but it is an interesting read. http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/10/a-spark-of-efficiency-project-gtr/#chapter-nice-presentation

Susie Wolff has been appointed as Williams test driver for 2015.

It's interesting to read what Eric Boullier had to say about it. Q: It has taken other engine manufacturers quite some time to get up to speed with the new power units - and even now the majority are not where they would like to be. How is the situation at Honda? EB: These are things that I cannot answer right now. But from the development as I oversee it, I can say that we have been quite brave. Just from the numbers that I know, there is a huge potential. The commitment of Honda is absolutely huge and we have a very good preparation strategy, so we are on a good path.

This one? What's the going rate for internal organs these days?

Link? What do you think it will go for Terry?

In. Just a heads up though, I wouldn't bother with a Cusco cage if you're planning on doing any CAMS events.

:lol:

Thought about running a water cooled external gate?

Glad I could help. Don't worry, I've had several cars come in to the workshop with the same issue. Always after the owner had worked on the car themselves, but even by some pretty mechanically minded guys. So like I said, it's a slight oversight. Swap the calipers around and it'll be good to go.

You didn't inadvertently install the calipers upside down did you? As in, fitting the left side caliper to the right and the right side caliper to the left. This would put the bleed nipple at the bottom of the caliper instead of at the top. And make it impossible to get all the air out of the system. It's an easy enough mistake to make.