MBS206

Have you seen what happens when you let an LS2 breathe with a touch of fuel taken out? They wake up more then a GTR does! And the GTR still kill them!

I sent my form to Nick... Can someone confirm he got it? Sorry... I just had to join the band wagon!

Duncans R32 is as he described it. I believe it's purely exhaust and tuned yes Duncan? (Plus suspension) And he's racing against commodores with full exhausts and tunes (And the new SS commodores are getting MASSIVE gains from that sort of work...) And seriously... If I could find an SS that handled, accelerated or even BRAKED like Duncans... I'd buy it!

Replace the earth! There's a reason people do earthing kits!

I think having my car on the Hub Dyno would have been a huge benefit... Mind you, for the power it's putting out (According to the dyno) it shouldn't really have been shredding tyres... I think it's more HOW it comes onto it's power... As it does the same on the road... 250KW... Starts to see a couple of PSi of boost from around 3750 - 4000RPM on the road... By 4500RPM its on 1 bar (Which is all I'm running) but it surges from like 5PSi to 14.7PSi within the blink of an eye... And just decimates tyres... Trent, any tuning tricks to make the turbo spool up earlier (Cam adjustment, fueling, timing) etc?

Just checked, my QFM pads were the Super X pads. Have heard good things about the A1RM pads though.

Most of the ECUs (Including the one I run) run a map tracer. As well as most good tuners can spot by just looking at fuel/timing maps where the dip will be as values will be off compared to other cells around it. Edit: And the main thing my tuner used the dyno for was loading the car up... He barely checked the power values it was putting out. Used his widebang + laptop to follow how the car performed. As Trent said, changing ramp rates affects things massively... We had to give mine the ability for the engine to rev up as quick as possible... The tyres just didn't wan't to hold onto the dyno no matter what we did... Which shifted how the curves looked. We had started a pull that showed boot rolling at 5PSi at 3600RPM and making 193RWKW... But as it climb onto full boost at 4000RPM it just shredded the tyres... On the road I start to see about 3 - 5PSi of boost at 4000 - 4500RPM... The dyno is useless for comparing no matter what... Use it as a tool to load the engine, no more.

If you're only streeting it, buy street pads. Performance pads don't come alive until they're really warmed up. I run QFM pads, the "sprint" style in mine in the front, and something else in the rear. After going back over the last track day when I was punishing them, they were starting to not bite as hard... On the street, perfect, they'll lock the fronts up first... But I was finding on the track, after a few laps of heavy braking, the fronts faded out, and the rears kept biting hard... Mind you, even when I had my 33 as a daily, the wear on my QFM pads was extremely minimal (Even after 10K) as I'm not a heavy braker on the street. I find the QFMs good on the street, and I'll be going Project Mu if I keep my 33 past january.

After being in Duncans production race car... Those SS commodores DON'T STAND A CHANCE! The amount of grip the AWD gives when driven in aggression... You could take 50KW off the GTR and it'd still wipe the floor with the SS... The RWD vehicles just CAN'T put the power down to be useful in going uber fast!

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! You can't sell it Ando!

Or if you actually do a full gearbox dyno pull you can see exactly where the perfect shift points are. Can't do that with RPM...

I don't see the point of comparing to RPM... Torque VS Speed is going to be the real winner in a race. Seeing that a car makes say an average of 500nm of torque across a 70KM range, is much more beneficial then seeing it makes 500nm across a 2000RPM range when you're comparing a vehicle on the track...

Even if the bov were fully opened, pressure on the air filter side, and the IC pipe side is EQUAL, so there is no "leak".

I think Duncan put it well: The one "sponsor" who WILL make the most money... And he wants it for free? $10 per DVD, sell to ten people (Damn straight he's going to sell them) there's his $100 coverage back. I think we should all be standing behind our club, and not letting them be pushed around... If they allow it for one sponsor, they have to do it for all. Edit: Also, if he's spending a few thousand to make DVDs, I'm sure he's not doing it only for $100 profit... Hence, the cost of a trader stall is nothing. He's making profit off his DVDs already, and he knows it.

Hmm... I wonder if you can get the dent in my rear quarter out actually... Might just come for a "hi, how you doing?" and see what it'd cost anyway.

No, but my car also used to stall all the time before it was tuned with Sard 880CC injectors in them...

What?

Coil packs. Replace them, missing should go away, and miss firign can read as high knock

I don't see, how at idle, the stock BOV is going to be "leaking". Air flows from point of highest pressure to lowest. When idling, the WHOLE intake up until the throttle body is at the same pressure... The vacuum point is from the throttle body to motor side... Nothing to do with before it...

Sonuds like AAC isn't setup when cold... Revs should come up above 1000RPM when cold to stop the shaking. Cold engines don't idle well when they're idling low.

Bugger buying an R33 if you wanna slide or drag... Go buy S13Deviats S13 and just have fun in the power it's got!

So I've still been lazy, I've paid for the SNS, just haven't sent paper work in, make sure there's a +1 on my name....

I'll grab some spare line and reconnect it all up then. See how it goes... Will le tyou all know, Cheers for the suggestions

See... Lost again... You say to tee the breather from the rear of head... But not to use it at the end of the paragraph... :S So drivers side as high as possible for rear of head to remove the positive pressure from the sump?

Oh, and in wasted spark config too!