bubba

All that sheet shows is that your setup spikes.. if it was running 13psi I would expect to see 13psi solid, not tapering back to ACTUATOR PRESSURE.. Here are my shitty boost curves from the old RB20 and the current RB30 (I have since smoothed out the intial spike and that little hump). One instance does not a generalisation make..

Srsly guys, if you aren't going to drop skids, please don't bother No offence but I'm sick of posers at these sort of events.. it's called POWERCRUISE for a reason.. get out there and paint some lines!

The lower port is intended as a drain, to empty the catch can. I already told you how to hook it up.

Interested in a swap + cash for the cams? You can have my stock RB25DE cams

Is that a business proposition? If we send you guys all our RB30's there won't be any left for us

It's unadulterated fuel?

The OP is asking specifically if the fact he has to cut a hole will affect his insurance. He rang Just Cars, they didn't know what he was talking about and referred him to the pits (Vehicle Licensing). Mate, you already have your answer - you told them you needed to do something dodgy to fit it so now, I would imagine, they will make you get it inspected..

What power supply will you be using? I initially started out with old desktop components but ended up with small form factor stuff in a purpose made case.

I still don't believe this whole 2-3psi extra crap with a full exhaust. I have to dial in 25% duty increase into the ebc to get 12psi (with a 10psi actuator) and I've got as free flowing exhaust as possible.

Yeah give it a bash, if I remember this thread is here I'll have a look

Talking about my setup?

I would just put the catchcan inline with the return from exhaust cam cover. Don't screw with the rest (bad breathing can create lots of headaches) and all you really want to do is remove oil/vapour from the intake stream. Essentially you want an "oil/air separator" not a "catch can". This means making sure your can is baffled and stuffed with something like stainless steel wool that's not going to disintegrate and end up in the motor. If it's not being plumbed back, I wouldn't bother with the baffling or wool.

I'd be more worried about the calais turbo guys dropping skids and getting US stickered.. If I've got my new car tomorrow afternoon I might swing by for a looksee

Yeah that was my thinking too. I'll be making a splitter/guide to go at the top and will do something to give it maybe 50mm of duct (from face of radiator to face of supports). Also thinking of running a sheet of ally from the top of the intercooler to the splitter/guide. Once I get a new front bar (N1) I'll flash the intercooler to the front bar aswell.

Here's a question.. I am planning to run my thermos on the front of the radiator (where the aircon condenser normally is), with the structural supports around there it looks pretty easy to make a shroud for the fans.. The only thing that I'm concerned about is stemming the airflow INTO the radiator when the fans aren't running.. would is be a restriction? or would I also need to put some ducts/guides in place that reduce perfectly down to the fan intakes?

That proper blue oil hose stuff isn't cheap..

Maybe their track is just a bit longer than a 1/4 mile

I think you need to do the reverse of what those of us that put 25 boxes in do. IIRC, there is no crossmember change when going from an auto to a 25t manual box but those of us who started out manual had to modify the crossmember as when bolted to the gearbox, the holes in the chassis are ~50mm too far forward. In summary, you'll probably have to get some flatbar and extend the crossmember to reach the holes in the chassis.

Well out of 3x 32's that I personally know over here all making the same power (my RB30 making an early 250rwhp, and two mates with RB20's sporting 25 turbos and all the usually bolt on stuff.. one untuned the other a de+t tuned), we've all run 102/103mph.

This C-clip you mention, did you get it off? Have you got circlip pliers?

Look at where the bushes are, neutral they will be in the same spot front and back. Traction they will be installed in such a way that the cradle points up at the front (to give more squat, so bushes will be under the cradle on the front and in between the cradle and chassis on the back). Drift they are installed to point the front of the cradle down (bushes between cradle and chassis on the front, and underneath cradle on the back). Hope that makes sense

That's how I run mine, it's tucked out of the way and you can't really tell it's atmo unless you noticed the blocked PCV valve.

Takes some balls to stand up like you just did, kudos

It was pretty fkn deliberate when he PASSED US ON THE INSIDE OF BLIND HAIRPINS, I nearly fkn cleaned him up when I turned in. As I said before, there is a distinct difference between having some fun and being a complete fkn idiot. There was absolutely no call for what he did. You can probably tell that I'm still very heated about it, it was the stupidest thing I have ever seen on a cruise.

Pfft @ show'n'shine.. go enter Autosalon! I'll be there for the skids!