bubba

Pretty sure it's not available and probably won't be anytime soon.. like that 100RON shell fuel we never got..

Wow! that makes me feel happy in my pants.. I'm only chasing 300rwkw to start with and hoping to make that at well under 1bar.. I know your head flows better but it still makes me all giddy

After mucho research and asking of opinions, I have come to the conclusion that ~300rwkw & <7000rpm for stock rods (so I'm only shooting for 300rwkw and limiter is set to 6800rpm). I figure that's pretty safe for now.

My bad, realised last night that 100kmh in 5th = ~2250rpm (as read from the ecu.. tacho is a couple of hundred rpm out)

lolwut?!

+1 My jap coilovers and 2-way diff makes it quite a handful on roads like that.

Shit tyres. I had a set of LingLongs at one point, they would spin 4th in the wet and 3rd in the dry and also step out around corners with no throttle (2-way diff doesn't help heh). My current tyres don't do any of that.

It's a 33.. they have an electronic HICAS system. If you bothered to read the whole thread you would have known this. But, +1 to removing HICAS, one of the best things I ever did to my car.

Different car, mine was up the back under the throttlebody (gtst plenum).

8kg's I believe, so light I'm afraid mine is going to blow away when it gets windy and I've got the bonnet up P.S. I'm not running a GTR latch..

narrow & bumpy ftmfl.

what are the road surfaces like?

fael movie

+1

I understand that, but it seems someone has given him the impression that building a 30 is cost prohibitive. Do you actually have anything constructive to add?

Yeah I had a troublesome one that kept popping off and making the car run like shiet!

It's the "surprise! I'm tightening!" corners that get me lol P.s. <3 my new huge brakes, they were great on the last cruise through the hills

Of two runs, best was: 13.9 @ 103mph, 2.3 60' (zip traction in 1st), ~250rwhp (@~4600rpm) Crossing the line at ~6500rpm is well into my nopower zone (turbo falls over at 5800rpm and at 6800rpm limiter it's making 90rwhp ), figured changing into 5th that close to the line was a waste of time though. Auto S13. I used a whole untouched Navara drive (as I was putting a 25t box in aswell) and the 17T cog that comes attached worked out pretty well, speedo reads 7kmh high.. not bad Edit: guess that sucks if you have a 33 but I guess you could do the reverse of what the 32 guys do and graft the Navara cog onto your sender! Turbo is the series 1 RB25 turbo that I had on my RB20.. 12psi by 2200rpm

Hmm yeah vaccum hoses!

It's likely fuel it's spitting out the exhaust, not oil (lots of fuel will look like black wet shit everywhere). Check and clean the CAS, along with the AFM's.. my money is on the AFM's got wet, something shorted and now it's in limp mode (I did mention them earlier )

How long had it been since it was last driven? before you washed it and discovered this problem..

Factory for 32gtst is 4.363 or something Umm, across the line is about 6500rpm in 4th

A mate has a pair of 2540's on his RB30, nice and responsive 530awhp.. might be a bit laggy on a 26 though..

wow.. nice effort there!

Umm, why more costs? is this what the guy you want to build your engine said? Are you not putting a decent oil pump and a new water pump in there anyway? The only difference in machining costs would be getting a spot for the tensioner drilled/tapped and maybe oil/water fittings if a non turbo block. Why are the pistons cheaper? was he going to do you a standard non-turbo build? 30's aren't for big numbers, they're for people who want lots of torque/drivability. They do help if you do want big numbers though as you can spin up bigger turbos.