iamhe77

Nah, dark blue is not my colour.... Besides Ben was willing to sell be a PM35 bonnet, but the price was NOT right. It will. The bonnet was the only issue.......... ...... I hope......

Yes, no, yes. Upgraded front bar on it's way, as is the bonnet... and I have the lights that you do so love.

Timing, eh? Can't imagine you could bore them out much. Is it a stock G35 or Z33 throttle body Paul?

Glad you know exactly what you are after there, bud.

Yep, many thanks for the TB you sent down Iain. Car is back to being enjoyable to drive again (a lot easier on the gears as well!) Would have loved to do a before and after dyno. Oh well. No extra powah... but faster now due to weight saving on all that grime lol... Just noticed that! Was a bit busy yesterday

God. Damn.

Thanks guys. Will look at making up some kits if people are interested.

So an interesting idea that we saw on the TEPS M35 site before it went down was to install a spacer to slightly increase the length of the runners. The thought being that it may improve low-mid range torque without sacrificing top end power. Whilst they installed a 20mm spacer, I went for a 17mm spacer for two reasons: 1. I was concerned to read that the owner had to close his bonnet very carefully due to the increased height and 2. My mate made his V35 plenum spacer from 17mm aluminium, so it was convenient to try with the remains of that sheet (if poor results, little was lost) First things first was to get a gasket. Unfortunately, the only engines that use this gasket are the vq25det and the vq23de. Once received, it was then given to have the shape cut, drilled and cleaned up to make the spacer. Next up, I ripped the intake off from the BOV pipe to the base of the plenum (no pics of dismantling) until this is all I was left with Next up, install the two extension plates to the existing brackets: Transmission filler tube (the bright aluminium plate at the back of the engine) and the fuels pressure regulator bracket (shown with plenum in place) Next, I needed to get the appropriate length high tensile bolts and studs (settled in grub screws - makes it much easier). Needed to re-drill the holes/slit so they could slide neatly in which was no prob Screwed the grub screws in where the studs were previously and placed the spacer on the existing gasket which was in excellent condition (pic from passenger side) Then on goes the gasket and (carefully) the plenum with the three long bolts in the top, the smaller bolt in the lower hole of the plenum and the nuts that were on the original studs screwed onto the two grub screws. All bolts and nuts were tightened to 19nm. Now just to put it back together again. Plug the Throttle Body plug in if you have not already done so and screw in the extension brackets (had to push the transmission filler tube ~5mm to the side to line up with the hole. No problem during or since) Reconnect these 5 hoses to the plenum and the bov pipe to the intercooler pipe and the throttle body. Then the BOV return pipe Support bracket and plug in the 2 hoses and 2 plugs Then put this bracket with the 3 plugs back on. Damn fiddly bolts. Lastly, I flipped the plastic tube that goes across the front of the engine so that there was less stress on it due to the increase in height. End result, a noticeably higher sitting plenum, but with plenty of space for the bonnet to close. Issues! #1 The 1st issue in the design was that the holes were too small for the bolts with was easily remedied. #3 Slightly slower to power through the rev range #2 Fuel economy and idle issues. Once the spacer was installed, both were stuffed. Warm idle was 1000-1100rpm (cold was ~1800rpm!), thus the economy died due to excessive revs when idling and an overly rich mixture when accelerating. ***This was put down to my throttle body. I have since installed another one and my idle is a steady 600rpm when warm and 1000rpm when cold*** Benefits #1 Increase in torque. Whilst it isn't a massive increase, it is noticeable... especially off boost . #2 Noticeably cooler engine bay.... I guess due to more space for the air to get in a circulate around the plenum #3 Hold gear much better now. No more gear change with a slight wiggle on the accelerator when cruising. I light press will have the car increasing speed in 5th... even if you are in "D"... or course it will still erupt if you stomp on the accelerator #4 Relevant to anyone else, I dunno... but my car is now like a cop in shit between 3400-4600rpm. Absolute joy in this rev range (quite the surprise initially) #5 Boost comes on a little earlier.... roughly 200rpm, not much but it is earlier. #6 Better economy whilst cruising due to no kick-down with little movements of the foot or slight inclines So all up, pretty happy with it. No real complaints. The car is a bit more predictable in the way the power comes on and it is a bit nicer on the fuel through the hills and cruising due to holding the higher gears for longer... although still controlled by the right foot. Also nice to have steady (if a bit slow) acceleration off boost. It IS actually usefull in some circumstances Anyway, just thought I would share.

Haha! Good to hear it is a simple/cheap fix. Weird, but does make sense!

Could be asking a bit much, yes?

Dead on mate. Could not agree more.

WTF? You wouldn't have an slammed R33 with a massive bodykit, 6" canon and "fully sick sub-woofa" by any chance? yeah, import drivers do seem to get picked on a little more, but that is because of f**kwit attitude implemented by so many import drivers.... as LordMidol said *** I picked the R33 as an example because it is what I see most of (I swear that Victoria has to have 1/3 of all 33's ever built and half of those would be crappy flogged POS examples).... or 180SX's.

I believe it is the white and blue "OP" on the VIN entry screen

Sorry Paul, miss read the codes... must be a bit tired today. Looking at those codes, are you able to try a replacement throttlebody? Possibly off a Z33 (they are the same) item. I tend to agree that, besides the fuse issue, quite possibly the throttlebody was mishandled (dropped?) and has a problem. Our throttle body's do seem to be a little temperamental. I cleaned mine with grease remover and ever since, it would remain too open (cold idle was at 1700-1800rpm, warm idle ~1000rpm). I did wipe away a fair amount of crud from the butterfly so maybe the gear belt was stretched? (if it uses one) All I am saying is it doesn't take much to upset one and that maybe you should look at testing a replacement to see if it fixes the issue. Oh yeah, and the "closed throttle position" reset is performed each time you turn the car off (it is that click-click-clack sound).

Do not know for sure. I can't imagine that the setup would be any different, but you have to remember that the ARX is 40mm higher from factory than the RS/RX. Can you trial fit?

Why would your ECU have packed it in Paul? Because your "exhaust guy" was shorting it out trying to get the car started again? If the battery dies, why did they have to start f**king around with the fuses??? Anyway.... P1222 Temperature Sensor Circuit - maybe check that all fuses have been put back in correctly? P1226 Closed Throttle Position Learning - I would imagine that you are being prompted for this because the throttle body was played with or "cleaned" during the install? P1705 TP Sensor A/T - Throttle position sensor? If this sensor is now buggered, it may explain why the car is getting confused trying to figure out the Closed Throttle position p1815 Pressure Control Solenoid short (???) Why not just take the car to Nissan or a mech with an OBD2 scanner? Call up and ask if you can have it scanned on Consult at Nissan. It may cost you nothing (although doubtful) and it can print out a little receipt of the errors and their code if you want.

Haha! Yes Graham, always on the lookout. I spot white and silver C34's around my area and have even spoken to a couple of the drivers (shopping centre carpark). Too bad they don't jump on SAU Oh, and there is nothing like seeing a fully loaded up 260RS flying through a roundabout on the way to a camping spot... The roof racks had to have been stacked 600mm high!

Be careful which set if you buy for an ARX. Yes Tanabe NF are adjustible... from -37mm to -78mm front and -38mm to -73mm rear WHEN FITTED TO AN RS, which means that on an ARX, you will be 77mm lower at the front from stock ride height when the Tanabe's are fully wound out!! Maybe look for Bilstein or Nismo dampers and add a set of springs that are suitable for ARX.

V35 FAQ See what Chris has posted regarding the BOSE unit. I presume it is the same for the standard integrated headunit, but maybe fire him off a PM to make sure what is involved in changing it.

Actually, it is the same satchel that all new Nissan's and Nissan's still under warranty have added in Aus. It was developed in the US and I have no idea what is in it... but you should be able to get any dealer to do a transmission service for ~$275inc GST (including the satchel) as it is not a unique transmission to the JDM market. As an aside, I have found that the willingness of Nissan Dealerships to service/look at M35's pretty much dictates the quality of mechanic they have. ie, if they will service you car, they generally will have reasonably cluey mechs.... whereas if they say either "Nope" or "we would just service it as if it was a commodore" would generally symbolise their mechanics lack of expertise with all things Nissan.

Don't worry mate, you'll be spotted eventually. It took nearly 2.5 years for me to be spotted in this thread and even then my stag was referred to as silver! Never mind that for 1 year, I was the only M35 in the damn state!!!... I guess I must have been mistaken for a pearl blue Volvo

Thanks Steve. I have done the idle re-learn a number of times over the past week. When I put my mate's TB in my car, the idle dropped straight to 700rpm. I then did a relearn and again it hit 700rpm and sat there. I put my TB in and viola! ~1000rpm Point 1 - Sounds normal. Sort of two "pushes"? Mine does it (no clunking sound), but feels like it engages drive, then moments later "locks" the gear in (hence the second "push") I have been in a few different M35's and they all seemed to do this regardless of state of tune. Point 2 - Again, sounds relatively normal. may be more "aggressive" due to the smaller ID of the stock exhaust/dump setup perhaps? Point 3 - Should be shifting from 3rd (or 4th) to 2nd if you plant it after pottering along ~30kph. If you do put your foot flat to the floor at very low speeds, the ECU will take a second, engage the gear and then allow you to take off at full boost. There will always be a delay when planting the foot in these cars (less if you have a shift kit or rebuild) presumably to offer a bit of protection to the drivetrain... but 3 seconds? I would get some other trans fluid or the Nissan satchel in there... I did notice a decrease in shift time and smoother shifts from the plain Matic J when I had the satchel installed (Matic J is not a fully synthetic oil). The Nissan satchel added is ~$30, so it won't break the bank... just gotta find a dealer that will be willing to put it in. Congrats on getting the "pre-approval" for your loan. I am building at the moment, but is a bit of a pain this time.

Certainly possible

Andrew, if you do not want the integrated setup that you have seen in the ARX, get an RS. You will be hard pressed to find an RS with all the goodies, but it is the only option without the integrated unit. RX, ARX and Axis al have the integrated unit and all RS's have the separate Clarion unit with 3 gauge DIN. I am sure that you can always change the headunit over and connect it up with the integrated unit though.

Mine too... but a couple of second after backing of while coasting. Nice deep growl.