iamhe77

lol... you need to talk to Nickcorr about upgrading from an R33 to an M35 (assuming your R33 was stock).

hmm, how does the stillen intake compare to a stock box with a K&N filter? Noise? Possible performance? Oh yeah, and does it have a secondary CAI from the front bar?

Whilst I am not interested in your filter Danny, can you post pics of the Stillen intake? Did it fit easily? (can't imagine why it wouldn't)

Yes. (assuming by "left side" you mean the driver's side) 1. remove coolant reservoir bottle (I screw, then just lift it out) 2. turn round light cover anticlockwise to unlock then remove You should be able to get to your HID or highbeams from here. If you need a) more room or b) to get your indicator or parker then... 3. pop plastic clip off the front of the inside of the wheel arch 4. unscrew the small screw that holds the wheel arch to the quarter panel (it's at about 2 o'clock if you are looking at your wheel from the side of your car - you will be able to feel it) 5. peel wheel arch plastic back so you can get your hand in and up to the headlight replace bulbs (parker/indicator are "rotated" in - HID and high beam are clipped in as usual) If you need to remove bulbs on the passenger side, replace "reservoir" with "airbox" and follow instruction above.

Click HERE for the instructions for error codes for an M35. and then Go HERE for an idea of what the code relates to.

Due to a series 2 front end install, I am selling my existing stuff. Would like them to go all at once. Ideally it will be pickup, but I can ship at additional cost if you need me to Factory Xenon's. All globes included - 4300k D2R xenon, H4 high beam, SMD LED parkers (white) and yellow indicator globes. The lights do need the rear cover and indicator globe plug (Nissan part #26243-AQ000) NM35 front bar and grill Will obviously be cleaned before handing over/shipping. There are some light surface scratches but generally in pretty good condition. The rubber lip is in good condition with no broken tabs. The grill also is in good nick with no broken tabs. $450 the lot.

Do you mean Scotty's bov/tb pipe? SO that will be required to connect up the HDi piping then? Why the BOV? What is the benefit of it over the standard? (unless you are venting it to atmosphere for the sound )

Congrats man. What are you upgrading from?

Is all the piping done Danny? can we have pics please??

If it was 15mm lower than standard then it would still be 25mm higher than a standard RS/RX and certainly would not be scraping

0W40 Don't really like their range. 50 and 60 weight oil is to heavy for the VQ25.

I use Motul 300v Chrono (10w40) in the Stagea. I used the that Nulon 10w40 that you are asking about in my wife's Magna kast service. Seems to be good shit. the Magna was burning a heap of oil and was very noisy (probably due to the 3L of oil that was left in it after 10,000kms). Put the Nulon in with their tappet treatment, damn quiet now and is great on startup. My wife says that the car is much, much smoother now. Have had in the Stagea (all 100% Synthetic); Royal Purple - good. SHell Helix Ultra - ok. Mobil 1 5w40 - too thin, engine didn't "feel" together, was quite noisy and I didn't have the confidence to push it. Castrol Edge - not so good. Engine "felt" loose and was a bit noisier than I would have liked. Motul 8100 - rubbish, could smell it burning, when I changed it (800kms after putting it in) a large mass of crap that smelt like charcoal came out. Amsoil 10w40 - good. Penrite Syn 0w50- way too thick. Felt like the intake pipe was 90% blocked off. Just didn't want to rev. (changed after 1100kms) Motul 300v Chrono 10w40 - Best to far... by a long way too! Engine revs effortlessly, is damn smooth and is quieter than the any on this list. (too bad it costs so much) I used to change every 5000kms, but I have extended that to every 10,000kms with the 300v. Will be trying the Nulon 10w40 with my next service (2000kms away). I say give it a shot. If it doesn't feel good (you will know), just change it. 5L of Nulon is what, $50?

Good luck with the bidding Wil!

nah, no belts to change. Spark plugs should be done if they weren't at 80k though

Does your missus know about these non car-related shenanigans?

That, Sir, is a damn expensive service... EDIT: ... and you did forget an adequate intake

Funny you should say that. The sticker on the inside of my bonnet that was put on for compliance states that it needs a timing belt change at 100,000kms....

Wiper blades & air filter

What is wrong with that? Where are the air intakes on the mid engine NSX? Certainly not in the bow wave he is creating.... so I guess the only issue may be water getting into the cabin if the seals are stuffed or water getting in the exhaust if he wasn't going quick enough. Having said that, if I did have an NSX, I certainly would not be doing that.

No. Bonnet need modification.... and I need a grill (Dolphin one is $400!!!). Looking like a more expensive conversion than I estimated Have a couple of other purchases that require attention before the front (including this HDi kit, methinks ), but will have pics when I do it.

Not slightly enough as far as I am concerned.

Just wondering if anyone here is able to buy stuff from the US store currently. It has been a while so I figure that someone may have found a way to do it? (stupid Aus DLC does not work with US games and vice versa) And before someone screams Entropay. It does not work.

Damnit. Wrong thread.

There are three audio systems. RS gets the Clarion single DIN unit (which allows for the 3 gauge unit or storage compartment) The RX and ARX all have the integrated dash, but it can be either the Bose option or standard unit (clarion maybe?) I believe that the Axis models come standard with Bose... but I may be mistaken.

Does he realise that while the ARX has 18's as opposed to the RS's 17's, the ARX is also 40mm higher than an RS, RX or Axis? Definitely check out if it actually is the Bose system. Bose and the standard integrated system look almost identical