Stinky Rooster

Yep, I haven't seen an import without them either. Most aussie cars have them too, but their not electric. I think in Japan they are pretty much a nessecity due to the parking situtation over there.

I think he is looking, mot selling (yet)

So, does this mean the seats aren't height adjustable the way the Stagea seats are? If not, then I might stick with the stockies, but the the GTR seats sure do look the biz.

Short answer - make sure the vehicle in question adheres to all applicable design rules. (ADR's) Long answer - a crapload. For a better idea on what is required to comply a car for approval under the RAW scheme, have a look at the proper checklist that the car is put through. http://raws.dotars.gov.au/Docs/PDF/VIR-1_F...AMBMC_Iss_2.pdf http://raws.dotars.gov.au/Docs/PDF/VIR-2_form_Issue_2.pdf Just be aware that ther are some idiosincrities in the system that affect different cars in different ways that make small changes to them. For instance, the headrests on standard stagea (and skyline) seats are supposed to be modified slightly http://raws.dotars.gov.au/FAQ2_Nov_2004.pdf see page 7 on ADR 22/00 and there are certain issues that have to be addressed on a state by state basis, such as the yellow fog lights that are illegal in queensland, but allowed here in WA. Its a realy long and involved process which is why the gubberment only lets registered workshops do it.

picsorban? where abouts are you located? I think everyone puts them in the "For Sale" section and then sticks in a link somewhere on here. Welcome to the forums too

maybe if you are gonna keep it stock for the whole time you are driving it, but if you are gonna mod it in any way, or start lusting after a manual (like almost all of us do) then you will save a bucketload by buying Andy's. *free plug just to feel the luuuuuurve*

PICSORBAN!

^^wow, thats pretty impressive, most people at least need a workshop.

My missus told me if I won Lotto last weekend I could have it. I didn't win I really wanted to as well.

*sob* yes..... on pavers no less, but we do have a supercheap portable carport above us!

Or 25t - I have seen a S2 25t X four and it was a very strange bit of gear - ony S2 I have ever seen that had NO triptronic

noice! does this mean you have a S1 front bar for sale?

OK, I am gonna take a deep breath and have another go at getting it out. Thanks to everyone that replied for all your advice. "I love you guys...."

Im doing it for a lot more reasons than how it looks, meathead. This coming from someone whose first considered mod was a fcukin' TABLE?

for almost $170AU + freight + buyers fee etc etc I think I will go with my original idea and use EF XR6 vents like these.. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-EF-EL-XR6-XR8-...1QQcmdZViewItem or the Nissan Jetspeed one like this http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Custom-jetspeed-bon...1QQcmdZViewItem

I have mentioned this elsewhere, but here goes again.... Standard turbos have a pressure fed plain bush bearing. When you stop driving the turbo can take a while to slow down and if you pull into the driveway and cut the ignition, the turbo will continue to spin for a short time, albeit without any oil pressure. If you have been sensible and driven nicely for the last few minutes, and you have a good quality oil in the car, no biggie, the oil present in the turbo will protect the bearing until it stops spinning. If the oil is old / crappy grade and/or you have been fanging it home (or anywhere) and you shut off straight away either the oil in the bearing will drain away leaving the bearing to cop a hiding as long as the turbine is spinning, or the oil will stay in the bearing and get cooked, stuffing the engine oil AND your turbo! I gotta say, I am getting pretty sick of hearing about how turbo timers let the turbo "cool down". Nothing will cool down by letting your car continue to idle. They will, however, extend the life of your turbo when used properly. I just stay right off boost for the last 3-5 minutes of every drive and use a 30 sec timer on the TT. This makes it a lot easier when getting fuel etc as you don't end up standing around waiting for the car to shut off before you can refuel.

I couldn't help but notice you have taken the "valley" cover off between the cams leaving the coils packs exposed - is there a reason for this? I was tossing up the idea of putting some slots in my cover for cooling purposes but I wasn't sure if this was a good idea. Is this why you have done it?

Thanks for that. I assume this a problem you have seen before? How far up do you recommend we push the engine? (we are using a block of wood under the crankshaft snout ATM) Is this going to make getting the box back in as hard as I am imagining? Or am I just being a pessimist? I never thought I'd say this but I am starting to mourn for my days of working on Trevmobiles...

pics?

Trying to change out a clutch on a mates S2 R33 and we were trying to do it without removing the engine. We have got it all sorted, but there doesn't seem to be enough clearance in the tunnel to get the box far enough back to get it out of the car. I have had this happen to me once before (on a Mk1 Escort) but that was fixed with the judicious use of a dent puller applied to the tunnel and I would rather avoid that if possible. Is there a trick to this? We have tried turning the box about 45 degrees in either direction and jacking the front of the engine up to increase the available angle with no success. We have got the box far enough out to completely stuff the friction plate alignment so I can't put it back on to the motor to lift the two out together so any advice would be hugely appreciated.

torque split - 50/50 drive to the front and rear diffs

Thanks for the info Al. If I didn't live in North Bunbury I would probably give him a go based on your rap, but it would mean at least a cut lunch and a waterbag to get there for me

very very noice! the police hassle you about that bonnet? I would have thought they would pay more attention to the wing, but...*shrug* I was more thinking about just putting in something along the lines of the 2 vents on either side.

Hrm, completely stock wagon with NO aero at all, with a drift spec raised bonnet rear.... Nah that wouldn't look wanky AT ALL! I might go and get some "V-Tec Yo" stickers when I pick up the spacers... Picsorban