DaveB

This pad appears on Bendix Australia's website: http://www.bendix.com.au/ProductCatalogue....;FromHomePage=1 It is apparrently for USA-spec' Infiniti Q45. Maybe your local Bendix stockist can get these in...?

Has anybody got a photo of the Patrol pocket? Hard to get a pic' from my local Nissan place who have to order one in...

Thanks Yeah I have the ETC toll collector unit, it's a big box taped to the side of the centre console, and when you push buttons on it it says things to you in a female Japanese voice...

Thanks Duncan, I'll check it out. btw reading the info here - http://tyndago.googlepages.com/gt-rbleedingattesasystem - I discovered that there should be a connector under the driver's side dash somewhere to assist with bleeding the attesa system. All you need is ignition (engine not running), you disconnect the jumper and it starts the pump in a constant pressure mode... I think I have found this connector, it's sort-of on the firewall, behind the driver's kick panel. I might have a go at bleeding the system as soon as I have finished the wheel swap, seat removal/carpet scrub and interior change from woodgrain to silver etc... so in a few days edit: it's called the 'air bleed connector', and appears in the second picture at that link

Hmm true no guage cluster in the centre console is a bit weird; still should be pretty cheap to pick one up on the Yahoo! Jap auctions

This is simply awesome, rare '34 front conversion all done and dusted!! looks fantastic, and the asking price is a freakin' bargain!

Hmm yes I do, I thought it was a GPS antenna for my xanavi unit? Either that or something for the Toyota Electronic Toll Controller unit that's been installed...

Is it true that the Mongoose M80G will function in this way ie. off the Nissan key remote?

Hi all, here's a bargain for one lucky future manual stag owner: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=12481

No worries Mike, bein' careful not to scratch it for ya btw I see what you mean now about the way you have the cruise controls mounted on the removable side panels, I can just keep mine. I'll update this 'tute' as I go along... should be able to finish it tonight. DaveB

OK, I may have answered my own question... looked on Yahoo! Jap auctions and looks like airbag is actually an intrinsic part of the horn assembly, and that the special screws under the side of the wheel hold it in? Appears that the horn cover does not come off from the front! (ie, you don't just pull it off - glad I didn't try now!) Here's what I think happens... We begin with one woodgrain ( ) wheel: Locate removable plastic panels on sides & base; side panels are sort-of triangular in shape and look like: Bottom one is larger and rectangular. Remove these carefully, I used an old plastic credit-card style card. Here is the bottom panel removed: Gotta disconnect some wires in there, preferably before you remove the wheel and after you disconnect the battery. I have circled what I believe is the airbag wire; until I confirm this beware I could be wrong! I just disconnected them all; I will post more pics once I have more time in the garage to get wheel all the way off. When you have removed the side panels, you should be greeted with a T30 secure bolt head under each one. These take the secure style T30 not the regular kind (not the raised bit in the middle which prevents a regular T30 driver from fitting). Here is the front & rear of a removed airbag/horn assembly: This is where I think that the T30 bolts screw into the horn assembly - note the captive nuts in the middle pic (circled): Please anybody feel free to correct me if I'm wrong so far... or tell me what a loser I am for going to this much detail on what is apparently a really rather trivial job that many previous people have accomplished without troubles already This is the first time I've attacked an airbag wheel, and I had a (phone, erk) camera handy so thought I'd take some photos... I really wanted to do this right since this will be an 'exchange' wheel hehe, and I thought I could perhaps show some other people a bit of a 'how-to'.

Hey guys, how do you get the horn cover off??? I'm planning to pull the wheel off tomorrow and I had a bit of a look but I can't work out how to get the horn cover off so that I can get to the centre bolt...

Hmm I tried Nissan and got told the same as this. He said they absolutely, definitely and unequivocally couldn't get QT1, because it was a special paint (pearl, metallic etc) that wouldn't come out of a container. Great. Can anybody recommend another Nissan place anywhere else in Australia that I can get QT1 touch-up from?

5??? wholy crap... that's awesome. That sounds more interesting than a drive through the suburbs... Do we have to give a definite 'yes' or can we just show up if we happen to be in town ?

Hey guys it seems that nobody has asked yet, but is the trans cooler upgrade as relevent to series 2's? They appear to have a much more substantial cooler than the S1's simple "finned loop" - looks like a 'proper' radiator (same style as radiator), don't know my tube & fin from my plate & bar tho. Just wondered if the tiptronic needs something bigger than that?

Spotted: in an electronics store carpark, somewhere near Adelaide... silver S2 with Dayz kit I arrived in my white S2, nobody else there carpark was empty, go inside, come back out and there's this silver S2 parked next to me. Did a double-take and it was like 'hey, snap!' Have a pic' will add soon...

OK guys done some further investigation of the wiring diagrams Mike posted up for the R34, and it appears as though the only time the signal is passed on (well, I have to treat the combination meter as a 'black box' and assume the signal is actually modified in some way by it) by the combination meter is to the TCM (Traction Control Module), however this is apparrently only present on rear-wheel-drive models. I would hazard a guess that this signal could be modified with some degree of safety, since if you modify it for one circuit (the combination meters) you modify it for all circuits thereafter (assuming that it is a simple signal which the speedo correction unit is able to reproduce accurately, and that you have it setup properly, however the way to guage this should be to simply adjust things until the speedo is working as before). This speedo correction kit specifically says 'handles AC output for Nissan cars', or something similar, which I thought was interesting. So thanks Chook, I might have a hunt for that wire (black with white stripe) at the ECU... DaveB

Have you looked through the PDF file in the first post?

FOUND SOME Lol cheers for the tips/interest guys... sorry I'm so late replying I somehow forgot to flag this topic for my email... so many tracked topics... Thanks Giveitall maybe Fuzzy is still interested in your horns? At Chuckie's suggestion (which should have been obvious to me) I checked out my local wrecking yard and found horns were all the same mounting and connection on all the bluebirds, pintaras and R31's there, but there are two different types; I think they were KM and K, the latter of which is slightly larger, and 110dB, so I got two of those for $10 including bolts etc So problem solved, thanks guys! Oh and for future reference, for other Stag owners... anything from a Nissan Bluebird or R31 has same mounting arrangement, connection and bolt size/thread. But the bigger of the two horns only comes on Sillhouettes I think (such a shame that there were two of those in the yard, picked to bits. Though they were auto...). Oh and to find them it's pretty easy, being just in front of the battery, on the driver's side, under the headlight behind the front bumper.

Thanks Chook that's quick work! interesting... your m35 is a generation later (V35/M35) than S2 Stagea (R34), but I wonder how much they changed it for consult II etc? I notice on autos the transmission speed sensor appears to be on a different pin ("Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - pin 58"); but your info does explain why I can't find a speedo output on the ECU; there apparently isn't one! damn. If only it were that easy... Correcting with oversized tyres isn't always easy, and is expensive; could the rule of thumb that "if the speedo guage can understand the speedo signal and display correctly, the gearbox, ECM, BCM etc. must be able to" apply? I hope so... i don't like the idea of playing around with all those systems. I wonder what difference it might have if they were calibrated at the factory on the original spec' (10% high) speed sensor output? Although I'm hoping it's just a pretty basic signal that the kit will reproduce accurately. I mean I guess most cars that this kit is designed to be used with (ie. those with digital speedos) would have these other modern systems as well? There is a warning in the instructions about airbag precautions, so they must surely know *something* about it... I hope...

Correct! Got mine today; two adjustments which can be used simultaneously, one varies by 1% per step, the other by 10% per step. I say 'varies' because it can be set to alter the speed UP or DOWN (ie. faster or slower). I agree with you Chook there are heaps of options... I'll try to take some pics as I proceed. What I would like to do though, is install this in the passenger side kick panel, where I can splice it right into the correct wire near the ECU, rather than pull my dash apart and try to fit it in there. Can anybody think of any problems with this approach? I have been looking at the pinouts of the R34 ECU (found here: R34 ECU pinouts) though and I can't seem to find a speedo output? Only "Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) - pin 29" plus there is a "Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - pin 58" however that is just for automatics (which mine is) and both those pins appear to be inputs, not the ECU output to the speedo? Chook can you remember the colour code of the wire you had to interrupt to install your kit? I might be able to trace it at the back of the ECU and save some other people some dash-removing hassles...

Hey anybody got a pic of what the RB25det neo throttle body looks like? I'm not sure if the neo in a series 2 stagea has one (it's awd).

199.5awkw you've gotta be happy with that Simon!! that's awesome... Hey Gary how did this turn out??? Did you make it to your magic figure of 200awkw? What did you have to replace out of exhaust manifold/turbo/injectors/fuel pump etc? Sorry I can't find results anywhere... anyone else know how this project panned out?

that's clever... cheers for that How about a variation... take the cooler inlet hose off, dunk it in a bucket marked 'old transmission fluid', and put this down low, say on the ground. Then, attach a length of temporary hose to the inlet of the cooler, and hold this in your new oil container. ...or, to make things easier on the trans oil pump, you could arrange a gravity-fed setup of a clear plastic bottle inverted, with the hose in the lid. That way you can even meter the level going in... I've never tried this but thought it could work?

true ...that's what i wondered