GTS4WD

Thanks for the reply guys! Its much appreciated!.. Im just struggling to justify the tens of thousands of dollars I spend on accomadation and uni fees to do a course Im not enjoying and dont like what options i have once I finish he course..

Hey guys.. I thought I may as well throw a thread up about this.. see if its possible.. Does anyone know of any performance/modification workshops looking for work? In particular engine mechanics? I have had enough of my uni course and want to get out.. Any ideas? Cheers..

Any ideas on whether it is a VVL or not further up the page? On post 83?

How are you doing this? Can we get some details? Eug.. wht dont you work with what you know? If you are going to get cams re-grinded, you you will know how much lift you have.. this will determin the comp. ratio you can run.. and the timing will be based on the combination of both of these.. If you calculate all this and find out you want to have more advanced timing (although timing wouldnt realy net that much gain.. no point sacreficing cams for timing) you can get the cams re-grinded to a less agressive lobe. http://www.torinocobra.com/Randys_tools.htm Very helpful site.. If your doing the bottom end in one go.. have you thought about new rods? And just a side note: When an NA car comes on aggressive cams hard its going rev out very very very quickly.. would a lightened flywheel be a smart idea?.. its going to rev out even quicker.. just a thought..

Im jelous.. I want P1's in 17's..

How did you weld the dog to it?

Hot Fuzz.. A MUST!! Initial D Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels And if you like Manga/Anime Hal's Moving Castle Ninja Scroll

PROPER JOB!!!

I know what you mean.. I called around for few places on quotes on balancing the bottom end etc.. and there is a lot of money spent of parts and work that dont necessarily yeld many gains. And, as with all builds/ mods.. I know for a fact im going to hit a problem.. its impossible to do anything without hitting a problem.. Then there are all the random bits and peices.. hose, clamps, re-wiring, brackets etc. that can't really factor in because you dont know that what you need. On top of that.. there are all the driveline/brakes thats need attention too. What kind of parts are you looking into? Because im budgeting alot of second hand/Nissan items.. DET/GTR parts Rb26 TB's? As in the intake manifold? or Individual Throttle bodies? I had a look at ITB's (i think if im going to do an NA build i should do it right with ITB's) but off the shelf items are very expensive.. How hard would it be to make your own indivitual throttle bodies?.. I have a metal work ladth at home.. Or is a CNC/CAD job?

1-Depends what mods - Nobody does a 26/30 coversion and keeps it stock.. the best of a 26/30 is extracted when modified.. 2-Aftermaket seems the go with PFC being the most popular for the ability to tune and every corner store ebing able to tune one. If you do a big project.. you may aswell do it right and extract the most power out of it.. if not.. do a 25/30 and spend the diffrence on the project. 3-Stock ones will work - Modded ones will work too.. the head works as a normal RB26 4-Yes. You need a new cranck collar but an N1 pump is not essential.. Rb205det is enough.. 5-Im assuming your going NA? The smallest possible and then shave the head/deck the block to up the compression ratio to something desirable.. have a look at the RB2*/30 thread in the turbo section of this forum..

Yeah.. sure.. their aweseome.. for the driver.. not for on-comming drivers.. let alone in the rain..

Strut bars and sway bars are two different things.. Strust bars (as said above) attaches to the two suspention towers in the engine bay. You can get the same for the rear.. Sway bars.. A sway bar (also stabilizer bar, anti-sway bar, roll bar, or anti-roll bar, ARB) connect the left and right wheels together through short lever arms. A sway bar increases the suspension's roll stiffness — its resistance to roll in turns AKA body roll

It gives you quicker acceleration.. but the 4th ger is so close it dosen't really matter.. 5th is the same.. It can be bad.. because you can start to strip gers with higher power and its harder to go down into gears at higher speed.. See sticky thread at the top of the NA section..

Your speedo will red over.. But yeah.. why do you want to downgrade?

maybe Im wrong.. But why not decrease tyre pressure in the front? Then you have a larger contact patch?

Brillantly said!

Funny that.. guess what I found in the for sale section? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rw...um-t215977.html You could always PM him an ask here he got it from if you dont but it off him

What you need: RB26DETT RB25DET box - NA boxes will not be able to hold that power and RB20DET boxes will strip gears and do in bearings at that level too. RB26DETT loom - You will have re-wire the whole ECU system RB26DETT ECU - Self explanatory GTR or Higher Fuel Pump - NA fuel pumps will simply not supply enough fuel Fuel Pressure regulator - You will need to replace this for the fuel system RWD sump - I know Rb 25 AWD and RWD sumps are direct fit but I dont know if a 25 sump will fit a 26 Front pipe/Dump pipe will need to be changed too Then there is everything you really SHOULD change.. but not absolutely essential for the engine to work Diff - Large power and open diffs do not go well together Brakes - I like knowing I can stop.. especially as I am assuming your putting in a 26 to go faster.. going faster means you will need more braking power Exhaust - A stock GTR exhaust is the LEAST you should put on.. You dont want to have all this power and not get the most out of it Front Mount Intercooler - Stock ones are fine but you will have to source one as the RB26 engines dont usually come with them and you will need it to complete the intake piping You may need to chop/change the front bar to allow for a FMIC A boost gauge is a good idea too And a stock bonnet will be fine Got a Lazy 10K?

Id like to go.. but my car isn't very moded..

20%? Come take a drive with me.. You will frequently see the front wheel torque at 50% during launches and corners. Atessa dosn't mean squat if you have shit tyres.. I can snap second round a corner with attessa and the arse will fly out quite easily.. And 7K launches in any car is not a good idea. ATTESSA's benefit isn't in its ability to launch.. Its that it sends a constant 5% Front wheel torque.. this gives you HEAPS of corner entry grip. I find I can leave braking very late as it gives you the ability to turn into the corner at much higher speeds. On the exit of the corner you can easily floor it and it will grip amazingly due to the 5%. If it does oversteer, you can keep you foot down and the full 50% front wheel torque till be sent and the car will pull straight and true. And I have an RB25DE r32.. you dont need power to use the ATTESSA to the full of its ability.. Eug said it perfectly.. People rely too much on power these days.. Bragging about and relying on power is like admiting you slept with your cousin.. just proves your retarded.. but HEY!.. what do I know.. i have never slept with my cousin..

If you want to hang your arse out.. dont go for MR2.. incredibly hard to drift. Again.. if you want to drift, you want the lightst car possible, Sprinter. There are a couple of 4AGE converted ones already and they are a blast to drive! I see where your comming from with an R32 as a drift car but the NA's have too many down points (in my opinion) to bother with.. no time. Im pretty sure that the NA's have a weaker box too.. and thats something you dont want in adrift car. How about a KE70?.. It would need work.. but they are quite cheap.. MA70 (is that the right code?) Supra? Toyota Cressida? Ghetto Spec R31 boro drift car?

Bonnet + Latch + Grill? What colour is the car?

yes

Yes they will.. 205's on 8inch will be streched but not too badly.. I currently have a set of 205's on a 8 inch R32 GTR rim Ba falcon offset? No.. they will not clear the calipar. When I got an R32 it has BA "steelies" and the car would not roll because it was stipping off a layer of metal off the calipar..

I remeber reading somewhere that N15 SSS's will have the jump on NA R33's but the Skyline will catch up a little down the line.. Quick rundown. Short answer: R32 - No. NA 2L is poo.. if you can find one with a 2.5L thats not too bad.. If your going to get an NA skyline.. get a 33 or 34.. Down sides.. Small brakes.. Open diffs.. 4 stud wheel pattern Slap a set of coilovers and strut bars and they handle awesomly.. My NA 2.5L R32 GTS4 can keep up with higher powered cars through the twisties without too much hassle.. but you really need to keep the engine revving to get the most out of it. It is possible to have a quick NA through the twisties with the right mods. If you want a good good handling NA your looking at the wrong place.. NA cars are all about being light weight with awesome handling.. Have a look at: MX5 AE86 RX7 SII perhaps an s13 Just a thought..