Beer Baron

it's nothing to do with reliability. he broke the rules that's simple, but ascribing motives to the breach and then saying targa is a reliability challenge is just wrong. if it were just about reliability then wouldn't he replace the 6 speed with a 6 speed PPG gearset or other aftermarket gearset? that's completely allowed under the rules and would be much stronger than either the r33 5 speed or the R34 getrag 6 and he could have picked some better ratios too. they didn't exclude him because the box offered improved reliability or improved shift action or improved anything. they excluded him because that particular change was allowed for under the rules. simple as that. as to whether or not they knew about it pre-event I wouldn't want to speculate on that and neither should you. perhaps it should be legal though? If there is two identical 34 GTRs and one has an R33 5 speed in it and the other has a fully built PPG 6 speed with improved ratios (and there is massive improvement to be had) I know which car I'd rather step in to. the only difference is for the bloke who can't afford $10K for a gearset and the constant maintenance they require then allowing him the cost effective option of an R33 5 speed is not such a bad thing. it doesn't change anything in this case as it doesn't matter whether it offers advantage or not. it's illegal and that has been shown to be the case and he's been penalised for it. but it's worth looking at for the future...

lol, it's had more hits than the beetles too!!! hehehehe.

are you for real? bathurst is and has been a public road for ever. I would say at least 350 days per year it's a completely open, 2 way public road. people live there and when it's closed for races etc cannot access the driveways to their property... nice vid russ you clown! sounds a big gay though. shame it's not a 2.6 like a real mans GTR (like your 32 for instance).... but I guess it's up mark's alley...

yeah I love it! very cool. would be great. nice big 4 door commo, with a screaming 350rwkw 26 in there. should be a fun car and it looks and must sound great too.

that is complete bullshit! there is no 'combination of lights' that indicate dud coil-packs. even in diagnostic mode there is no magic 'dead coilpack' sequence. this is 100% the easiest way to find the dead coil-pack (if that is in fact your problem). with the car idling remove them one by one. as you remove one the car should start missing more heavily. when you remove the one that doesn't change the idle at all you have a winner. the engine check light and other warning lights coming on is a worry though. and no they are in no way telling you of an ignition problem. the engine check light usually is telling you that you have no oil pressure. but with many coming on it sounds like possibly some other electrical problem.

i dunno... you're a funny guy... you know... the way you tell the story... it's funny... geez tommy... you stuttering prick I almost had yeh! I dunno henry, you may fold under questioning. /end good fellas as for troy taking over the world benny, I've heard this movement is gathering strength against the ginger resistance uprising. as for troy, I would get some brown hair dye if I was you mate. especially if you still planning that trip to the UK. might not be healthy.... http://vimeo.com/11219730 edit: clip may be a bit full on for some folk. it's a music video but a bit graphic... be warned!

1, never done it, never needed it and not sure it's actually possible at all. I've never heard of it. 2, I used to do it, now I just use good shipping companies instead and never have a problem. if the car is super duper special I'd spend the extra money on putting it in a container rather than buying some dodgy insurance. prevention is far better than the cure. I'd much rather make sure nothing happens to the car up front (as best I can) than have to bother with insurance claims down the track. 3, same as above. the car is unloaded and will be at the port for a couple of days only. it's secure in there and nothing will happen. not worth it. 4, for this one I would get regular comprehensive insurance. tell the company you've bought a new car and it will be in your possession as of XX date but is not yet registered. it shouldn't be a problem, just give them the chassis number. end to end I've never heard of anyone who has insured a car from the moment it was purchased at auction right through to it being complied and registered in aus. it certainly doesn't keep me awake at night.... edit: dude! just saw you are buying a V35 coupe. seriously it's not worth it. it's a car that costs a bit over $10K to buy. waste of money insuring that or putting it in a container. seriously even for cars $100K+ carefully monitored, regular roro shipping process is fine.

you are so camp duncan. it's perfect for you. at least it's not quite as hairdresser spec as your convertible.

come home brisby. I will give you lodgings and fuel you with beer. you provide the entertainment.....

don't confuse ATTKD with Autech. two different companies. ATTKD aka Autech Tsukada is a tuner in the same style as mines, midori etc. Autech make a number of factory specials in the same style as HSV, FPV etc. not quite an aftermarket tuner, not quite an OEM manufacturer. ATTKD: http://www.attkd.co.jp/ Autech: http://www.autech.co.jp/EN/index.html very common confusion....

they would have serious safety concerns about you setting foot in tasmania with a rented hyundai people mover let alone a bloody caterham mate! lol.

man what a bunfight! well you and I both know I think you are super gay snowman but fk me dead well done on a great drive mate. 5 speed, 6 speed, or more like warp speed it was a bloody good effort to keep it together for the whole event and finish on top in EM. a big shame that a misinterpretation of the rules on your part fked it up. but them's the breaks I guess. well done again mate. the only move from here is make it legal and get the buggers to check that shit and then check it again before the event and then go try to win it again. who knows who protested or not. the whole sport is so full or rumour and innuendo already and at the end of the day it doesn't really matter. congrats to the other guys on SAU too, lots of good results from a whole bunch of skylines including steve and kel, well done both of you.

10-4 good buddy.

i would do the GTR diff into the GTST housing option duncan mentioned. so GTR cradle, GTR hubs, GTR rear dampers, GTR driveshafts, GTST diff housing (if you can fit it to the GTR subframe from memory they mound differently?), GTST yoke, GTR centre inside it. the reason is the GTST diff is pretty crap being viscous lsd. even shimmed up they are unpredictable and still pretty crap. the GTR centre on the other hand is proper 2 way mech clutch pack type lsd diff. and with a new set of plates in it and shimmed up properly they are as good as any mech lsd really.

for anyone unclear this practice of trying to 'pre-sell' parts off ebay before actually buying them yourself is completely against the forum rules. the for sale section is here for people to sell their goods. that is items THEY OWN. Kon or whatever your name is, posting up something for sale before you own it is completely against the rules. what if racer89 decided not to sell them to you? what if they got damaged in transit to you? what if they were stolen before you received them? then you have a big problem with a buyer who has unknowingly taken a risk. Don't forget you also flat out lied repeatedly. you claimed they were YOUR calipers. you claimed they were in japan. when called on the truth you then claimed you had bought them from racer89 and then decided not to use them and were just selling them to recoup money. also 100% lie. you had not bought them yet, so if in fact you were buying them to use and changed your mind all you had to do was not go through with buying them as you were not bound to the purchase in any way and had not spent any money. why would you go ahead and buy them if you'd changed your mind only to have to re-sell them again? I know why. the story was 100% bull shit. you also claimed you were wrecking an R35 when in actual fact you were beating down the price on someones ebay sale and then jacking the price up here without having to risk any of your own money. great plan. how on earth you can claim racer89 did anything but the right thing is beyond me. you not only misled people about the sale but you flat out lied about it to make some easy cash. all he did was post on here clearing up who actually owned the calipers. the fact you were trying to buy them does not make them your calipers. perhaps you should have just told the truth but I guess that would have fked up your no risk profit plan. though you really should have told the truth once you were found out. instead you just dug that hole of bullshit deeper and deeper making yourself look shonkier and shonkier. no one made you look bad. you made yourself look bad. try dealing with a bit of honesty. if you want to profit from overseas ebay parts at least do the right thing and put up your own money and buy the damn things, get them over here and then once actually in your possession you can sell them and if you buy smartly you may even make a little profit. it's a pretty low way to make cash but no one will stop you doing that as at least you are honestly selling something you own and you risked your own money to buy them from overseas. taking that risk of lost/stolen/scam parts should entitle you to some reward. just forget all the bullshit stories that go with it. and forget about ever selling anything on this forum again.

I have to admit I know the LC2 is supposed to be a bit faster 0-100 but I bloody loved the LC1 in the JDM cars. what can beat sitting at a set of lights and for the hell of it dialling up nearly 5,000rpm and getting a nice screaming, wheel spinning launch with nearly 1g of acceleration? it's anti-social, rude, loud, bad for your car but my god it's fun and I love it! The LC2 just seems kind of tame in comparison.

100% agree with craig. I reckon by the time you import, pay a broker, pay an exporter in japan their FOB costs, pay entry costs (tax, clearance etc), pay compliance and then get a car registered you are looking at approx $10K for a car you got for free in japan. my advice to people is basically this. if the car sells for less than $20K in aus then it's not worth importing as the fixed costs of importing are making up to great a portion of your total outlay for the car. example, you buy a car for $1000 in japan. it will cost you about $11K on the road in aus. but it's still a $1,000 car with all the nastiness that that entails. there are some exceptions to my rule that fall just under the $20K mark, so I'd probably revise it in some cases to $18K or even $15K for some models but a car that sells here for less than $10K I wouldn't even have to think about. it's 100% not worth importing. iron chef's advice about where to buy is sound too. in sydney before P-plate restrictions people would not even import NA R32s or R33s and you couldn't give one away. once the law changed all of a sudden turbo R33s were worth practically nothing and in many cases an NA R33 (especially a manual) would be worth more than a similar spec and condition turbo model which was nuts. buying one in a state with no such restrictions makes some sense but only if you can really save some decent money as transport, new registration etc will all cost $$$.

it's not complex. if you feel a post violates the forum's policy on advertising then just hit the report post button. that way moderators/admins will have a chance to review the posts in question and make a value judgement. it's anonymous (as far as other users go) and effective. moderators can not read all posts all the time. that's why we have the report post system in place. or even just PM your mod/admin of choice and link them to it. not that it really needs much explanation but we have in the past allowed a bit of latitude in the R35 section due to it being a burgeoning parts industry. in the beginning there was not much available for R35s and people needed and wanted access to information about what products were available and where from. some users have pushed that a bit far and it's been discussed in the admin section and action has been taken and users warned/contacted where appropriate. if you think something is still going on that contravenes the policies and spirit of the forum then give specific examples to a moderator. just making wild statements of a general nature won't achieve anything other than offending people who donate their time to the forum.

budget $1000 for a basic rebuild. like all things GTR it could go higher but if you get out of it for a grand you should be fairly satisfied.

what a bugger. yeah I haven't done one since last year. a long time back they used to take longer but a few years ago wait time seemed to equal out with other VIA's as they knew what they were looking at. obviously it helps it you make sure you attach absolutely every piece of required paperwork and spell it out in a cover letter along with the VIA application. but I'm sure that's not the problem in this case. just slow processing. they do try fairly hard to discourage PI's anyway so it may be another tactic to put people off....

sorry but that is way off the mark. intake and exhaust piping is some of the most critical components affecting a performance car's performance. and it looks simple but is so easy to f*k up. you would be surprised how badly many cheaply made dump pipes, front pipes and exhausts are made and how many problems they can cause. poor welds, poor internal finishing, bad angles, bad collectors, flanges that are not true and wont seal, and stuff that just won't fit, add to that inappropriate pipe sizes for application and inferior grade of materials etc etc i could go on and on. .. take a look at the ebay copies of the trust intake pipe kits as an example. the trust kit costs $1000 and the cheapo ones are couple hundred. but the cheapo ones simply don't fit, they are poorly finished, they come with shit clamps and shit joiners. there is a lengthy thread here on them. I know which one I'll buy. the trust one may cost $1000 but there is a lot of work done in it's development to ensure that it fits perfectly (very difficult in a complicated engine bay), it flows beautifully, it's finished properly both inside and out, all the pipe joining angles are carefully thought out, the silicone joiners are high quality, it even looks pleasing to the eye and most importantly it performs it's job faultlessly. piping either intake or exhaust is one area I won't skimp on. actually there is no area I will skimp on for a performance car but exhaust and intake are mission critical stuff. chose poorly and you get left wondering why your set-up with the same basic 'spec' as another car doesn't quite perform as well...

not sure what you have against the "gay" civic that you could legally drive and actually afford to keep in good working order? it takes thousands and thousands of dollars a year to keep an R32 GTR in top condition. even more if it's modified. let alone the cost of comprehensive insurance for a 17year old with a GTR (actually you wont be able to get any since you can't legally drive the car). great another un-insured clown on the road with no money to pay for stuff or people you run into. I know all about loving a certain model of car. I have loved the 32 GTR since they came out (you weren't alive then). and followed them since I was 10 years old (when they were released). I bought one when I could actually afford to look after it, and when I was a competent driver and could legally own and insure it. loving R32 GTRs doesn't mean I can't appreciate other cars though. The EP3 civic is a great drivers car. has 'cool' recaro seats, a great interior, 6 speed manual box, modern safety features (crumple zones, side intrusion protection, airbags), it handles beautifully and has a great engine. one of the best NA 4 cylinder engines around. so it's safer than a 32 GTR (important when you are learning to drive). it's legal for you to own and drive. it's great fun. and you have some chance of actually being able to afford insurance for it. I have owned around a dozen GTRs and driven probably more than 100. I've owned every modern GTR from R32 to R35 and owned standard cars through to fully modified 600hp GTRs. My current 32 GTR has over $100K spent on it and it's currently sitting in the garage gathering dust where it's been for a while. But I've also loved lots of other cars from silvias through to subaru's and I very nearly bought an EP3 type R recently as a daily car. there is plenty of time to send yourself broke modifying and driving a GTR in your 20s and 30s. I would seriously re-think your approach.

just to confirm what has been said in case you doubt it: there is no such thing as a parts car. you cannot import a complete car for wrecking/parts. the only way is to have the car cut in half in japan and generally you cannot import a front and a rear from the same car at the same time (well not the complete shell). as far as "re-shelling" the car. also completely illegal. I would strongly advise against that option. as the guys above said someone is not telling you the 100% accurate story here. you should do some digging and find out what type of import approval it had to be imported here. and yes it 100% must have had one unless it was duct taped to the hull of a ship and then cut loose by scuba divers near a beach. if you just want to wash your hands of the whole thing then your options are to break up the car for parts (most likely get close to your $5K), or sell it to someone who wants to build a 33 GTST race car. make sure you make it clear to anyone buying it that it cannot be complied or registered (providing that is actually the case here).

that is not good mate. should not be taking that long. I've done personal import before and not really noticed them being that much longer than a regular SEVS approval. I'd give them a call and see what is happening.

depends if you want the early models or the late models? the later update model EP3s are a bit nicer with different seats, different front end etc and look a fair bit more modern and of course cost more. add another $2K or so for a later model over an early one.