Beer Baron

yeah $1000 for a pair seems to be about the going rate. I wouldn't pay any more than that though as I can get some brand new from japan for not much more. and they are brand spanking new. front and rear for $500 if they are complete is a good deal and is about what they used to be a few years ago before everyone started jumping on the wagon.

dunc, the sileighty is a 100% real nissan produced car. not many of them made I believe but I have seen the original brochures etc and seen one real one at auction in japan.

no, they are all 4.375:1 people call it 4.4 as that is rounded off. the ones you want are the manual R32 GTS4 diffs which are 35:8 ratio. you must get front and rear and make sure you get all the bits, crown wheels, pinions, the whole shebang. as duncan said to be sure best of getting the whole rear end and front sump. then swap the bits onto your GTR. be aware that doing the front one means engine out as getting the sump off when engine in is pretty much impossible as far as I can see. front LSD is a good idea while you are there. and also make sure you put the rear gears onto your GTR centre as the rear GTR diff is mech LSD, rear GST4 diff is NOT so you want the new gears onto your current GTR centre. they are hard to find though! and people who know what they have will charge you an arm and a leg for a complete pair.

that and the fact that there is nothing really wrong with the factory set-up... sure a good ewp is an improvement but it's a lot of dough to spend to fix something that aint broke.

Pauls Power FC FAQ I think details which model hand controller works with which model power FC. be patient one will come up sooner or later.

I really don't see even a Nur being worth $80-$90K in aus and a V-spec II is not rare or special at all. there's plenty of nice VS2s around if that's what you're specifically after. it has some nice bolt on bits no doubt but nothing serious, still standard engine etc. It might be worth $65,000 or so in the current market, or one special buyer may pay more, or you may not be able to sell it at all and end up taking $60K or less even. hard to say at the moment. but there is nothing that really sets is apart above other nice mildly modified R34 GTRs.

pretty sure it's 1 to 20 issue and capped at a max of $15K for which you'd need to be currently holding $300K of shares... which of course prevents people trying to profiteer of other retail investors without the capital to take up the SPP unless you can sign up a lot of naive people. and ferni said they stipulate it's not transferable which would usually be the case anyway. I'm not a NAB shareholder so it doesn't worry me either way but if you are read the offer carefully.

yeah, can't argue with that logic. it has it over the skyline in so many ways. poor skyline, they really are much faster than they have any right to be. such a compromised car but still great fun and fast.

exactly these days I would only pay a premium for low kms if the car has service records FROM NEW to back it up. otherwise I can almost guarantee it's bullshit. no one who has a 20 year old car that's been through say 5 owners and all those owners only drove it 50km a week would 'lose' the records for it. the only reason people lost service records is to hide a cars true kms. these days a 32 GTR is worth anything from $15K to $60K and there is a big difference between them. All I can tell you is that the smart buyer gets what they pay for. and that includes the bloke paying the $60K....

I don't want to shock you. but that is what car dealers do.... they buy cars. at auction, or privately, then re-list them for more money. just like you are wanting to do. only you'd have a better chance of turning a profit by not buying your car retail from a car dealer.

they are basically exactly the same as any other auto box. there is nothing special at all about a 'tiptronic' box. they are just a normal automatic gearbox but with a controller that allows you to use paddles, or buttons, or the shifter to tell it when to change gears. it's not a semi-automatic box really. it's an auto box with a 'tell it when to change gears' option. just like in your old crappy auto when you shift it from 1, to 2 to D. it's the shame thing basically. it still works exactly like a non-tiptronic box, still has the same kind of torque converter, and bands etc. if you want manual, you need to buy a manual. all the talk of semi-manual and tiptronic etc is just marketing talk. the only way to get them to perform well is to modify it with an upgraded valve body and a shift kit which can have some good results, but it's still an auto box, just one that will shift quicker and with more positive engagement.

be afraid duncan. be very afraid....

looks like it should be fun. with the flange adapter that's on the turbo it looks like the internal wastegate is now blocked up? so what are you going to use for a wastegate? I'm guessing external?

yeah, the only issue I think with them in the past that I have seen has been, poor installation, or other user related problems (like not understanding what to tell the pump to do). and possibly some claims of reliability. but I would not have a problem using one, I can't possibly see how it's cheaper than using a factory or N1 water pump though. you need to get the pump, controller, a place to mount it, wiring (pretty decent current drain), do something with the factory pump housing, then plumb it all up. it's a fair bit of work and a fair cost of parts. it's not like you can just cut your radiator hose in half and stick in in, then wire it up to an on/off switch. it needs some thought to work properly. if you do do it properly and have the controller set-up well then there are some good advantages to using one and it can control temps much better than a standard crank driven pump and wax thermostat combo. plus you can do things like have the coolant continue to circulate after shut-off to help cool things down and stop the coolant temp in the engine spiking up after shutdown (if you have a proper temp gauge check what happens to engine coolant temp after you shut off the engine!!!).

that's correct. 32 GTR rotors standard are 32mm thick and wear limit is 30mm. the problem is the inner area of a thicker rotor will be larger than a thinner one. so as you take 2mm off the outside you are now closer to the inner vanes.

looks pretty cool. but since they are cutting current gen ones left to $499 I'd buy one of those. most likely to get a game or two free as well since they will want to clear them. the new one wont be discounted or bundled for a long time... and for people wanting to add a big HD and a new OS then you'd be better off buying a current fat one at the new $499 price. lol, I remember when I sold my Jap first release, first day model for $1900!!

yeah sorry, been slack. :oops: will take some pics asap. net radio is cool. the whole thing is pretty easy to use too.

yes I hope you didn't pay a premium for those R33 GTR non-brembo calipers as there is no such thing. all 33 GTRs had brembos, and they are the same as the R34 brembos too, both in caliper and in disk size. R32 GTRs did have non-brembo calipers and the 32 GTR v-specs have brembos which again are the same as the 33 GTR and 34 GTR brembos. you most likely have 33 GTST calipers and rotors. don't forget if you currently have the calipers with the 296mm rotors when you go to the brembos you will be running 324mm rotors so the caliper will be spaced further out too.

they look quite good for $1700 delivered but there is no way to tell what they are like till you test them. many compaines just make 1 damper and use different fittings on the ends to make it fit many different cars. this is bad as different cars and different springs and different useage needs different damping specs and different valves and shim stacks inside the damper. there is no way to know what is inside a damper you buy (without getting it on a shock dyno or pulling it apart) and no way of knowing what kind of R+D has been done to make that damper work with your specific model of car. in the case of most stuff manufactured in china and taiwan the chance of them having done extensive testing on say an R32 GTR is pretty slim, where as compaines like tein etc do that testing. there is the same issue with springs but it's not such a big deal as spring rate are fairly easily and cheaply changed. the other issue of course is quality. it's no use if they work well if they spit out a seal in 6 months time. all of these things are un-known. of the problems the biggest one is the damper. many of those companies just use very 'approximate' specs for the damper. at most they might look up the weight and F-R weight balance of a car on the net and have a guess from there, but I highly doubt they have tested every model they make on the actual model of car it's made to fit.

go webber! just 1 more spot to the top of the charts old son. just leading a WDC would be pretty special.

the best ones I've seen locally apart from the jap tomei or trust ones are the ones made by envy imports here in sydney. they are very durable as they use factory nissan cam gears for the outer section and machined alloy for the inner section and come with good fasteners etc. call envy imports from memory they are pretty well priced. www.envyimports.com.au

looks a bit better now, but still a bit surprised that at ~22psi it's making 300kw. I just had another look, at ~17psi it's making 264rwkw. it should definitely have more than that for 17psi through -5s with all the other gear too. I would have thought you could get over 300 with 17psi or so. but it could be the dyno I guess. it might be worth having a run somewhere else at a dyno day or similar or even better run it down the drag strip. it's not a bad result but with all the effort of vipec, new turbs, big injectors etc you would hope for more. it's possible to get 270 with stock turbs, injectors and just a power FC, some boost and an exhaust so you'd hope for the extra outlay would come extra power!

as opposed to re-using the standard one. an ATI or similar is better again.

yeah, it was bufiveter I was thinking of. I remembered it was a very neat set-up.

I wonder how many guys using N1 pumps are using an N1 balancer too? according to the guys in japan that know their shit they always tell me if using N1 pump, switch to N1 balancer too.