Beer Baron

it was a poor assumption. the cheap dumps are cheap and they are crap. the jap dumps costs twice as much because they are twice as good. they actually test and use the dumps they make. the people in china copying them have probably never even seen a skyline let alone tested they dumps on them. plus their QC is not always up to scratch meaning you could by 5 dumps from the same factory and find they are all a little different/warped. you pay peanuts... you get monkeys.

yeah I'm with troy. waste of time for 14mm more rotor and as he pointed out as it's only 7mm radius you cannot even space the caliper straight up, you need to clock it to one side with offset brackets. I would say find a cheap rotor, 343mm is a good size and get a packge made of the caliper adapters and hats to suit that rotor, or get them done to suit a 1 piece rotor and just sell brackets and rotor. like troy said sure it's a good upgrade to go from 280mm to 324mm. but even from the 32 GTR sized and 33 GTST sized 296mm rotors it's marginal as to whether or not it's worth it. but going from 310mm to a 343 will be good and should still fit under most 17inch wheels.

and they often do. how many times do we see a grade 4 that is rubbish and probably had more hits than elvis? and at the same time I have seen plenty of cars graded R that just had say a front guard replaced due to a superficial dent (more economical to just repalce outer guard than repair the dented one). or some other small cosmetic repair. this is why like I said it doesn't matter if it's a 4.5A or a RB they need to be inspected in the flesh. grade tells you nothing. there is nothing more frustrating than when I'm selling a car in aus and the bloke is standing right in front of me with the car looking at it and he asks me what grade it was.... lol. what does that matter? LOOK AT THE BLOODY CAR! the auction grade doesn't help you. look at the physical car and you can tell me what grade you think it is... again, grades are only used to give an idea if a car is worth checking out, after that it's all up to what you can see/touch/hear when personally checking a car. I have seen plenty of awesome cars in amazing condition that were accident graded and seen plenty of rusty, nasty POS that were grade 4 or better.

my advice, yes run it. as duncan said in 32s it will let you go far enough that you can actually lock wheels before it decides to cut in, so it's not really intrusive. you will only ever encounter it if you have a real f**k-up. good hard braking won't trigger it on the track. sometimes it will trigger if you have big bumps coming into a corner which can be a pain. but then big bumps coming into a corner will probably cause you to lock up without it so that kind of evens out... if you have it, I say run it.

nah they look like the right ones. yes GTR and GTS4 are very, very slightly different, but the shocks are basically the same. the bolt issue you have seems to be beause of those little rings they have on the outside of the fork. take along your current bolt to a place like coventry fasteners and ask for a bolt of the same grade and size and thread just 5 or 10mm longer. you should be fine then. they probably came with bolts originally that you didn't get when you purchased them off yahoo.

bobby, probably the most suitable option for you is to get a set of replacement R32 GTR front upper control arm bushes from whiteline. you can just get standard bushes or some adjustable bushes that will give a little adjustment to your wheel aligner. the adjustable idea is not a bad one. and no they wont really add any NVH to your car.

sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I have tried 2 brands of those dog bone aka midori type arms and one set lasted a little bit till I sold it, the other set one bent after 1 trackday and the bearings failed after 2 trackdays and about 800 road kms... they will fail sooner rather than later AND even worse the don't give all that much neg camber. though you could get more by taking out the two ends and cutting their rods a bit shorter as one set of mine actually touched in the middle with still more room before they'd be touching the centre 'cuff'. they are cheap, and cheap for a reason.

interestingly I think nfi does have a fi in this case!!! if he is who I think he is... possibly works somewhere on princes h'way.... starts with an "H" and ends with a "easmans"...

don't listen to what he posted. he is talking about a now defunct scheme that has no bearing on current R32 GTR compliance. R32s do need the front side indicators done. yeah it's a shame but if it's in the evidence package it has to be done.

was your car complied under the 15yo rule? sounds like it was and if it was then what you're posting is irrelevant. no R32 GTR can be complied under that rule. it's been gone for 4 years now. THERE IS NO 15yo RULE. we now have a scheme which covers 1988 and earlier model cars. R32s of course are not in that category. all that rubbish you posted above from another website is out of date by 4 years... they all must be complied under SEVS which is completely different. and no they do not require fuel filler neck restrictors.

my personal thing is cars worth under $20K on the road are not worth importing. and no you being in japan wont make things any easier or better. unless you have access to dealer auctions and can speak and read japanese and know how the auctions work... if you want to import just pick your exporter, broker/whatever and get them working on it. but seriously a stock R34 GTT is not worth that much these days, you are better off hassling sellers for a deal here.

yep iron chef is 100% right and this is why AUCTION SHEETS ARE ONLY USEFUL TO MAKE A CHOICE ON WHETHER THE CAR IS WORTH LOOKING AT IN THE FLESH OR NOT. you should never make a decision to bid on a car just off the auction sheet. you need a physical inspection for that choice. sheets just help you decide which of the few thousand cars up for auction that day are worth seeking out and looking at in the metal. people who buy cars remotely just looking at sheets often get burned. and they generally then pass that favour on to some other unsuspecting poor person. like he said (and I said) being R grade could be anything from a smoking wreck with flinstone style rust holes in the floor, all the way to an otherwise very neat car that has just had the bonnet replaced because wifey sat on it one night and her ass dented it, or had 1 front guard (only outer guard) swapped for a new one under insurance cause someone pushed a trolley into it. like kristian said quality panel work is not exactly common. and any kind of inner guard damage, chassis alignment, rust/rust repair or and multiple body damage will mean the car most likely would be knocked back for SEVS compliance in australia in which case you are fked. which is why it's worth paying that extra couple yen to get the good non-accident grade cars. oh, and yes if the car is dead stock and has an R rating then yes most likely it has some kind of accident repair or panel replacement on it. we would need to see the sheet to get a basic idea of the repair, but again you need to really see the actual car to get the full picture of what has been smashed/replaced/repaired.

it won't cause you any problems suspension set-up wise. and of course you can run the same size tyres on 17X9 or 17X9.5 so then there'll be even less of a difference.

Forget the 381kw. plenty of 32/33/34 GTR with 2530s or T04Z making that much awkw. but check out the torque curve!!! or should I say torque platform! that is why when you're in your fairly laggy 380kw R32 GTR and you line up this bloke in his 35 you get left a long way behind... and I'm with troy. I can remember the 1990s! croydon autosports. GTI specialists! when you guys moved and swtiched the name to CRD yeah you became more into the GTR scene in the 2000's... i don't think troy was 'cut up' lol. just giving a little stick. hell read the blurb on CRDs website..... I would say croydon autosports definitely made the swift GTi a popular cult tuning car in the 90s. and I'd say they opened a lot of people up to small capacity engines as a good thing to own and tune. not sure I'd say they made the GTR a cult car, but since changing to CRD and moving they have tuned and built way more than most and have put out some very nice GTRs.

yeah send me the bill for your bladder. I've been filling mine for years and it's held strong... stop whinging about your driveshafts! it's a bloody V10 Oreca Viper! if it was cheap I'd be driving one to work, all of it sideways in 2nd...and I'd have back-up one just to keep my carspace occupied at home. you could build another 32 for a set of viper driveshafts and a new bladder. what a sad state of affairs. where is the guy who was fibreglassing his own ghetto bumper?!? you've changed man. gone all Hollywood on me... at least I'm still keepin it real with some POS that runs 10% of the time...

lol, just don't forget get to keep taunting to build up your balls meter. and use the rage mode wisely. since not only are you invincible in it, and get 1 shot kills, but you regenerate health with every person you shoot. so try and use it when you're a bit down on health and there are lots of guys around you to shoot. plus it's funny as hell walking around saying "go to sleep chazza".. or "die maracon!"

yeah, I have this bad boy. well 2 of them. came with house of the dead overkill bang bang box. the only downside is when driving you have to kind of hold it by the barrel to use the A button.

I would say 60,000kms on an aftermarket clutch is pretty good going mate. it should be well worn out by now. daily driving will also be hard wearing on a clutch with lots of slipping the clutch on those first gear take offs etc.

you wouldn't bother using a GTS4 diff or cradle etc. you just get the GTS4 crown wheel and pinion and fit them to your GTR centre and housing. the viscous diffs are rubbish. also the GTS4 diffs are really a 4.4 not 4.3 (35:8 or 4.375:1 if you want to get accurate!). the set-up you have sounds good, but may be worth putting an LSD centre in that GTST diff casing as the viscous centres are not so hot. their behaviour changes a lot too when overheated etc. a GTR mech 2 way centre is nice and predictable. or just get an aftermarket LSD that's suitable for your GTST housing.

good man. you get it for wii? it's good on wii. was ok on PS2 as well, but I like wii better as I can use a proper gun in one hand and the nunchuck in the other. sweet.

yeah rezz's one makes most sense to me in hiragana. kakoii kurama = cool car. they seem to use kakkoii with cars to say like tough/cool/phat. so I would use that for sure. sweet ride would not really translate at all. sounds like some kind of weird cute sex thing...

how many kms have you done since you bought it? clutches are a wear item and won't last for ever sadly. and the driver and his/her driving style has a LOT to do with how long a clutch will last.

there you go. fatz has cheap cradle. but that, then buy diff kit and you're on the road to success!

the new nismo pro is a little bit more progressive than the baron nismo GTR diff kit. lol. and the new pro has adjustment. I'm pretty sure it has 2 cams too so you can rotate the halves and make it 1.5 way (less agressive lock on deccel) or full 2 way. the stock GTR diff is not that agressive under decell anyway so you would probably never use the adjustment on it. the nismo diff kit was good enough for mark and russ in their 32 and everyone I know who's got one reckons it's the way to go for the GTR. replacing the spacers etc with more friction plates, and more agressive friction plates really transforms how it feels. see for guys that have a complete stock GTST rear end, they find that a new jap LSD centre for their POS viscous diff will cost around $1500. then they realise they can find a GTR cradle, LSD, shafts and hubs for reasonable money. sell their GTST gear to someone who's bent one, but the nismo diff upgrade for peanuts and then they've now got alloy hubs, beefy shafts and a nice LSD. and they can run GTR suspension of which there is a much wider choice available. but for people who've already upgraded the diff in their current GTST cradle and already have found and bought GTST suspension it doesn't much as much sense. but starting from stratch, GTR rear end is probably a good idea. you straight up save $1500 on a pricey jap diff centre and instead just spend a few hundred getting the upgraded clutches for the GTR diff you get with your cradle.

thanks for posting your solution to the RB26 oil system problems stuart. it's always good to see different approaches to the same problem. basically the real solution is dry sump. in between standard at the bottom and dry sump at the top there is a lot you can do. baffles, enlarged sump, swinging pick-up, cam cover baffles, various oil pumps, external oil pump, external head drain to sump, sump vent, and the many different catch tank/breather systems. personally I the old engine was ok with moderate power and a few of the tricks in place. new engine has trust extended sump and pick-up, mines 3 level cam cover baffles, ported oil returns when engine was built, small oil feed restrictor to head, big catch tank venting to atmosphere, oil pump with reimax (nee reinik) pump gears and most important giant size oil pressure warning light and buzzer in case none of that shit works!!!