Beer Baron

great looking car. and great job in race 1 too. what type of box are you running in it?

yeah webber has 1 or 2 or more donks left over vettel. depending on who you read vettel either has just 1 engine for the last six races or 1 engine spare for the last 6 races (2 engines total). Webber should have at least 3 and he has his old engines that are still usable for practice etc. where as vettel has had 4 blow-ups in total so those engines are presumably un-usable so even his pool of worn out 'practice' engines is smaller than webbers. come on RBR time to wake up and get behind webber as the number 1 man. webber has now out finished vettel 8 out of 11 races this year. come on!

in your case since you already have a diff you're happy with and have coil-overs to suit the current set-up then all you are really getting is stronger drive shafts, alloy hubs and ABS sensors. so for you possibly not worth it. but for most guys that still have the stock rubbish viscous GTST diff and haven't yet bought suspension they are going to stick with then it works out quite well as they get an upgrade to the 2 way GTR mech diff, and all the other small benefits.

most guys that have 'shimmed' the GTR diffs have just had it set with tighter with a spacer washers etc. the nismo kit replaces all the disks inside it. completely changes the way it works. you end up with more friction disks than you used to have and a higher initial breaking torque (and you can chose between 75 ft/lb or 45ft/lb). it works just exactly the same as a nismo 2 way LSD, in fact it is the same as the original competition nismo 2 way LSDs (now they have fancier ones with adjustment etc, but the basics are still the same). best $300 you can spend on a GTR just about. cradle pick-up points are a little different I believe. obviously you get the LSD too (which with the $300 kit becomes excellent), and yes the alloy hubs and bigger driveshafts are good. especially for a rwd car having nice big rear shafts wont hurt. the obvious downside is changing shock mounts but it's not too big a deal.

Well the R usually means accident grade but means different things in different auction houses. often heavily modified cars get an R rating as they have had body panels changed or just not in top shape etc. the B is most likely the interior grade. again at most auction hoses interior is rated A-B-C from best to worst. the only real way to get good meaning out of a grade is to look at the auction sheet. if you have it post it up and someone can explain it to you.

if you're planning to import that 90 model I would check whether or not it has side intrusion bars. I can't remember what year/month they start off the top of my head but I'm fairly certain most if not all 90 models won't have them. it's not a huge deal but considering there are ample nice cars both in aus and japan it doesn't make sense having to go through that effort and cost to import one unless it's something really special.

have a look at proengines RB30 packages. If I was doing a 30, I would be getting it from greg no doubt. he's built a number of engines for friends and people that I have referred to him and they have all been happy. he's a smart guy and charges fair rates for his standard of work. considering that for about $8000 you can have a built 30 bottom end complete with his own sump adapter ready to go it's not bad value. I would then look at one of those endyn or bullet CNC heads (go the OS valves on the 30 for sure). get that sent to greg too, decide on cams, add some valve springs etc and get him to bolt the whole thing together. around $12-$14K would see you with a complete top notch forged, 2630 with a sweet head. bolt on a set of 2530s and enjoy 400awkw and very decent response. a top notch 26 will work out about the same price. a top notch HKS or tomei 2.8 about the same price too. $15,000 is what it will realistically cost to get a top level GTR engine no matter what the capacity.

The bullet figures look great too. very close. giving away a little bit of flow at higher lift but are on top at lower lift which is good. and overall not as much exhaust side gains. but they don't specify what valve size just that you can ask for std or oversize.

there is nothing wrong with a good jap 2.8 kit. Some of the most impressive RB set-ups I've been in have been jap built 2.8s. there are lots of them running around in japan and there are a few that stick in my mind. I agree with NIB that if you wanted wicked response a HKS or tomei 2.8 with mild headwork (skip the oversize valves for your application), mild-ish cams, some GT-SS or even 2530s and some agressive tuning it would be a pretty serious piece of gear. outright peak power tells bugger all of the story. case in point. R35 GTR makes peak power of 300awkw.... I know lots of GTRs making peak power of 300awkw but none of them hold a candle to the 35 in either straight line or circuit. that's because peak power is only a number at one single RPM point. if you looked at say 50rpm points from 3,000rpm to peak the R35 I bet would have miles more power than the 300awkw R32 at every point. and that's where the race is won and lost. There are now some good RB30s out there, but lots of the earlier ones I was in did not impress me as much as I would have hoped. a lot of that though was down to all the other components in the build as most of those owners went RB30 as it was the cheap way out and they took the cheap way out in other areas too and it showed. where as typically the guys who are willing to pay up on a jap 2.8 are also willing to do everything else 100% right. The 30 is undeniably good value but it does change the nature of the engine a fair bit. and don't forget to factor in sump adapter, mods for clearance etc. and the fact that you are changing the block has rego implications too. there is a third option which I like a lot, and my example would be Mark and Russ's R32 engine. it was using a standard size block (but a GT block). with a beautiful full forged, full counter tomei 2.6L crank, good rods and pistons, largish cams and good head gear, ported head, small-ish turbos (garret 2530 sized), lots of boost, and it was mega responsive and make ample power. there is obviously a little more to it than that, but that's the basic package. it was and still is one of the fastest circuit GTRs in the country. Hell it's even in the top 10 drag GTRs in full circuit config.

further to that you'd be mad to import any 89 or 90 models either as they require side intrusion bars etc and are generally more work = more cost to comply. so to be safe stick to 93 and 94 models. makes it easy. obviously mid-late 92 models are ok too but make sure you are 100% correct on the build date as you'd hate to buy a 92 and get knocked back due to it's build month.

pricing seems pretty fair. and the work looks very nice. I wouldn't hesitate to try one. you would be wise to use a set of their roller wave pistons as awell to get the most out of their chamber design. head looks fairly similar to the guy I use in japan as far as what he does with the quench pads and for the same reasons too. using their special pistons I imagine means you can reap the benefits of the revised/removed squish zones without the disadvantage of loss of response (piston design gets it back).

yeah badoer was complete rubbish. I reckon they should have given max mosley or bernie a go. that would have been much more fun... poor webber. no pace and crap timing of his final stop fked him. instead of closing down 2 points on button, he's given 2 points to button... d'oh. having said that vettel had no pace either. before his engine blow up they showed each drives PB in the race and webber was ahead of vettel (9th and 10th best laps) so I think perhaps the RBR just had no pace in it this weekend and vettel went light to get a good qualy position. big shame webber gave up that 7th, would have been nice also to grow the gap ahead of vettel a bit too just to confirm who is the number 1 driver in the team and who the team should be backing for the run to the end...

looks crap. send it to me. save yourself any further heartache. trust me, this is good advice.

lol, I have bad memory! wasn't trying to be a smart arse. just pointing out that you'd think if any were vulnerable to failure it would be the early release models and both of mine a still going strong (the jap one with the new owner and the aus one with me). though having said that I know both the jap release and the aus release 60gb models where made in japan where as apparently later aus models where made in china? that could have an effect, but still PS3 is far more reliable. look at all the extra cooling shit you need just to get a 360 to stay alive and even then they still often die. anyway, since we're talking about PS3s did you know I bought a jap launch PS3 in japan? it was awesome.

great news. I'm glad the car performed well for you. hopefully things go well for the first event too.

yes please tell me the RB26 long life secret! i prefer my engines to remain whole.

yep, every single guy I personally know with a 360 has had it fail once or more. a couple have had 2 failures and one guy has had 3 failures... I don't personally know a single person with a PS3 failure and me personally i've owned a jap launch PS3 (bought on the very first day, first batch of jp launch machines) and still have my aussie 60gb launch PS3 and it's still going great guns.

lets just hope webber can stay up in the top 3 or 4, with some ferrari, renault and maybe even big macs between him and button and rubes. put vettel down with those two as well. maybe even a few dnfs for vettel please mr car god. happy to let alonso and co win a few races as long as webber is finishing strongly and gaining on button. come on webber! turn left old son. it's the way to victory!

cage looks excellent btw. oh, and suspension wise on a dollar for performance ratio I reckon it's hard to go past a set of Murray's home built proflex. considering the quality of his gear, and the benefit of aussie support for revalving, repair, or replacement it's a great way to go. they are not particularly cheap but considering some of the options run up and over $10K per corner his prices are quickly put in perspective...

me too unfortunately i'm not a dictator though and there was some support for this section. god knows why but it's where we are at now...

there is some info here on it. not sure how accurate or not it is but it may answer some of your speculation. http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/busin...4-16941,00.html

buy one with a bracket. search for extinguisher in the motorsport section. there are plenty of threads on there about how to do it. also the extinguisher must be over 1kg dry powder type and must have a METAL bracket.

yeah pass on the 360 thanks. I have my PS3 and my wii. that's plenty for me

the problem is 100% the fact that the power FC is more sensitive to weak earthing that the factory ecu. you add more earth, clean up wiring etc problem gets better. so yeah the fault as such is not the wiring, but improving it removes the fault (power FC earth sensitivity). that's been my experience with this problem.

first of all. what do you do in australia? what experience do you have? and what qualifications do you have? and how old are you? (approximate if you want). and what kind of work do you want? these things are gonig to determine how hard it's going to be and what kind of job you're going to be able to get. not speaking the native language of course is going to be a big problem. what do you think a persons employment prospects would be if they came to australia looking for work and could not read or speak any english? pretty limited.