Beer Baron

you would be nuts to bother buying a japanese car from the UK. buying euro cars is another matter. but buying a modded GTR from the UK just makes no sense. as does all the advice in this thread except for iron chefs which as usual is correct.

SOLD. Now in the hands of it's new owner.

yeah prod sports for sure. many a car has found a home there over the years. a supra and RX7 comes to mind for starters.

yeah good point. you do get a shitload more track time at a private day like the SAU days. but I was just saying I think $175 per day is not so bad for a PI super sprint. from memory the EC supersprints are usually around $160-$180 aren't they? and OP GP maybe $140 or $150? it's about right. and like you say they are very poor on a $ per lap basis but still good fun.

no arguments here. it would be one hell of a way to die!!!

lol. the 'thing' above your wheel is two things. upper control arm and you can also see part of the upright there. yes you need them. the guy was joking but some people didn't get it.... wheels with a lower offset should clear it.

when you drove my silvia at PI we had project Mu HC + front and rear. actually no we didn't they were endless CCR which are about the equivelent from endless. I would put the HC+ in the front and something like endless SSS in the rear which have good co-eficient of friction but lower temp range. should be a winner I reckon. or run the CCR in the front and the SSS in the rear, both endless.

agree 100%. an $80 wheel alignment wont get you bugger all, they will print out the specs for you and adjust front and rear toe and that's it. if you (like me) have front adustable upper control arms, front adjustable castor rods, rear adjustable upper control arms and rear adjustable traction rods along with of course front and rear toe and height adjustable coil-overs try getting someone to adjust all that for $80... that is more like a $200-$300 worth of alignment work. you would have to have rocks in your head to be willing to spend 2-3 hours aligning a car and charge $80. anyway, wacky dee, can you please pm me the names of the 2 places involved. I'm keen to know.

lol, always running low! thanks mate. actually if I have some free time I might make a little trip soon too. just sold the RX7 and some property and need a break badly.

ummm, foxtel IQ.

I'm starting to feel the urge. can't I just buy another car in melbourne like last time to save me driving all that way down there.... lol actually having just sold the RX7 AND had my property sale went through there should be a few $ spare for some love for the S13. I'm thinking tidy up all the brakes, some cams, some more tuning, oil cooler, some more booooost. get the backlash sorted too as the whine is starting to piss me off. hmmm....

$175 for PI seems ok? isn't the next SAU OP track day $200 and it's south circuit and not the full GP circuit? I don't think I've ever paid $80 for a trackday but I would sure like to!!!

it all sounds good. there is a fair bit of work in there so I would say $1500 is in the ball park. everything else sounds good too, one thing I'd consider changing though is the front pipes to the HKS stainless front pipes. they are true twin 70mm ID pipes and welded to the flanges on the inside to create a very smooth entry. being stainless they'll last forever so you can keep them for any twin set-up. most GTR fronts are only twin 60mm and especially with the 30 you will be flowing some good gas. they are expensive but worth it imo.

mmm I just want one... check out the P34 cockpit. lol at the wooden gearknob!!

what the spider looked like back in 06

yeah it's an oldie though too. I remember the covini was 'coming out' about 5 years ago and I saw some good pics and vid probably 3 years ago or so but haven't heard much lately. it did look pretty cool.

this one not too bad either. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dL1lTKyVkgE

come on! it has to be the tyrrell! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GewFbY0zz8 yeah baby! it sounds pretty horny too. check out the above youtube clips.

I have no experience with the just jap ones. my favourites at the moment are made by envy imports. for one thing they are actually made in australia (not chinese made ones like some other cheapies). plus they use a STEEL outer gear not aluminium like many other (in fact they actually buy and use the outer gear from standard cam gears) and they have machined up their own alloy centre plate and use a 5 bolt retaining system. perhaps give them a try. they will be good in that their wear resistance is OEM standard. apart from them I use and like the trust ones and the tomei ones. both good designs. http://www.envyimports.com.au/

well they probably factor in a month per year for transport and servicing etc. so it's more like $187K, plus you need to figure that whoever the organiser is does it for a living, they are wanting to make a profit out of it. so they probably get 11 blokes at $17K, gives them about $20K up front, then they charge you a management fee per year which covers their time in organising the logistics and covers servicing, rego, insurance etc. I do agree though, it's not really a good way to go.

my thoughts as well. I've tried the 19s on a 35 and it was slower than the factory 20 dunlops. I can't imagine the 20s being any giant step up. they R888s are very popular and seem to work very well in the smaller sizes and on smaller/lighter cars, civics, little alfas, mini's etc they work great. even silvias etc they are pretty good. but as snowy said they didn't really hold up too well on 32-34 GTRs and with more power and more weight on the R35 GTR they were not great. just my opinion though and it's possible the 'new' 20s are better but I wouldn't bet any money on it.

looking good. I think I'm entitled to a drive after it's done. it was my baby after all. going by this thread there is a little beer baron in everyone...

ask yourself this. would you buy say an R32 GTR on ebay aus from a guy in another state without ever looking at the car or having someone look at it and just trust that he is 100% honest and that he didn't 'forget' to mention the fist size rust holes in the floor!?! is it safe? ummmm you tell me.

yeah turning it off is the only answer. even in R mode with more power you will be cutting in the traction control/stability control often and it will slow your times. I have driven standard R35 on track and upgraded (exhaust, ecu etc) and prefer VDC to OFF. yes you will find yourself dealing with some power oversteer but its very controlable if you know how to use throttle and opposite lock (and I'm sure you do mate). it's not like it becomes a scary unbalanced car when you turn VDC off. the chassis is great, it still has loads of grip and the active torque split is still working as it should. just no traction control will cut in no matter how sideways you get it. but I honestly reckon you would have to actually try to spin one off the track. they are very controlable in a slide and you can easily balance the car on the throttle. and it's fun.

sweet It's the most fun I've had giving you head..... I wish I could get complete heads as cheap as I sold that one now! Your head was lovingly removed and checked at prime garage so it should be good, in fact Tono at prime was going to buy it when he pulled it down, but I wanted it so we gave him the block/crank/rods/pistons out of that engine as a christmas present instead and kept the head! it will be a pretty sweet donk when it's done. and I would hazard a guess all up not too pricey either since I know what the head cost ya! hehe.