Beer Baron

also no need to cut and re-weld. an exhaust shop would most likely just heat it up and bend it into position.

jasmine enjoys long walks on the beach and post spamming....

a little pic of the silvia with it's new 3 point tomei brace. the dumb thing is I actually did have a strut brace. lol I forgot it was there. it was one that tucks up near the back of the engine, and it's actually a nice one. a mines alloy one of all things. it's pretty cool and weighs absolutely nothing and would have cost a pretty penny. so if anyone with an S13 needs a strut brace give me a yell! and a pic of the silvia with my RX7. took this as a bit of a farewell pic as the RX7 is going to it's new home shortly. it's funny. I've been driving the RX7 a lot lately and it feels very nimble and quite powerful...until I drove the silvia again. being a 88 model it's light as hell, (around 1200kg) and has 230rwkw and lots of suspension gear. next to the RX7 it feels like a V8 powered go-kart! when I got back in the RX7 afterwards it felt like a luxo barge. and that's saying something as it's actually a pretty raw car to drive. anyway the main news is the silvia is back baby! and I'm loving it.

SOLD guys. sad day but this means I'll be rocking around in the silvia for a while (finally drove it again the other day and man it's like a go-kart next to the RX7. a go kart with 230rwkw that is...). AND most importantly this is the motivation needed to pull my finger out and get the R32 going again.

oh, one other thing. the 35 GTR stuff is ok, but there is still a bit of a premium on pads for them. the ol GTR tax. and they are not really a motorsport caliper (they are still good though). I would still go the alcons over the 35 brembos.

hmm, probably should have spent another $20 and got a nismo one, or UAS make their own upgraded ones too. either option is around $50. probably a bit late to tell you that now that you've spent the $350 on labour though... (labour cost is about right though, certainly not outrageous).

yep, as much as I love jap stuff and EVERYTHING on my cars is jap, in this case I say go the alcons. for circuit work with that kind of power you need serious brakes. forget using them at the drags. drags are just one HARD stop, so for them you could just use standard 32 GTR gear with street pads (need to work from cold), then you can run 16s or 17s with some MTs etc. oh, and engine looks very nice mate. very, very nice.

fark I can only dream about pits with AC and supplied compressed air... the best we get here is there is one compressor at wakefield park in the middle of the paddock that works 30% of the time... as for air conditioning well at about 3pm in the arvo at oran park the wind changes and you get a nice smell of pig shit from the nearby pig farms so I guess you call the air 'conditioned'. I know you have to be 'conditioned' to manage to keep breathing... even phillip island which has by far the best facilities of any track in aus is woeful on a world scale. when I first went to places like fuji speedway I realised just how rough we have it... boohoo poor me etc etc. lol. what do I care, it's not what's in the pits that count.... man that's a lot of girth on that viper. you got any walls near the track? if so please revise 'racing line' accordingly...

fck me dead those driveshaft prices are just rude.... you could have bought yourself another GTR complete with 4 driveshafts for that money and had a 2 car GTR team! car looks nice. wheels. my god man the wheels. you sure they're big enough? this thing will be a weapon after the GTR. more grip, less weight, more power....hmm for the airjacks we usually just take a big nitrogen bottle to the track. it's enough to run the airjacks and use it for the tyres too. we don't really use any air tools at the track (use 18v electric rattle gun and good old hand tools). plus a small compressor wouldn't run air tools for any length of time anyway, you'd need a big one for it to be worthwhile. seriously consider buying and using a nitrogen or 02 bottle at the track. much easier and don't have the stupid compressor pumping away all the time.

mosler is not a bad piece of gear that's for sure. sadly I saw one get nicely smashed about 2 weeks ago in sydney.... d'oh!

yeah they are pretty rare. so even a shit one should still hold some value. well to someone who likes R33s. AND 4 doors...

do you mean the new type ones that pivot in the centre that UAS is selling? they look to be a good design. I haven't used any yet so can't comment on how well they last or not but I would think they will be a good thing. up till now the only other decent option was the noltec arms, the big chunky ones that slide in an out. they take urethane bushes and have grease nipples at both ends so you can lube them up as needed. they are the only ones I've had that lasted and had good adjustment. but I don't think they are being made anymore. the old adjustable nismo ones look to be the same design.

yep as above different number of ports of the ABS/non-abs brake masters. best of getting the right one for your car. oh and most workshops will be able to either rebuild it on-site or they will have a place they send masters and slaves to where they bore and sleeve them and put in a new piston and seal.

all I can think is that webber had that P3 in his bag until the pit fark up and it all went downhill from there. it should have been webber P3 with vettel about P5... how can they continue to get these marginal little f**kups. for most guys 9 times out of 10 it would go there way and be ruled close but no penalty. for webber 9 out of 10 times it will be rules un-safe and penalty worthy. they should keep that in mind when making decisions for him. it was funny mate watching them after your laps. i mean you were bullshit fast, nice tight laps at spa, but just the sheer speed of them between the corners was mental! having a real comparison like that from a super fast road car with a bloodnut hustling it along nicely to an F1 car just shows how they really are a whole new type of speed... well except for badoer. I reckon you could have given him a shock in your caterham mate...

want this farker gone. guess I really should advertise it somewhere but god dammit i'm lazy! so if anyone's keen come check it out. just putting new rego on it on monday and want it gone for $18,000...

looks like it's gone. guy came last week and I've struck a deal with him. don't have the cold hard cash yet but it looks set to happen. I'd say as of next week my building wont be shaking to the beat of a rotor everytime I come home.

lol, I wasn't angry? I apologise if you thought i was being rude, reading my post again it does seem a bit harsh. but I just said don't listen to something that has no bearing on current GTR compliance. purely to save people problems. they do have the correct information on that website though, if you actually read the link you posted it says: so as I said it does not apply to any R32 GTR and has not for nearly 5 years. it's nice to want to help people out but I'm sure you can see the problem when you give people advice about stuff that is not correct. the next thing you know the bloke above is ringing his complier saying "hey you ripped me off, I heard you don't need to do indicators, you've wrecked my guards and charged me for it..." etc. or you have another bloke who guys and buys a 1989 R32 GTR expecting he only has to meet the 15yo rule which hasn't existed for 4 years. I would advise anyone wanting compliance info ring a compliance workshop or even better... DOTARS. they set the rules and they enforce them. They are the people best placed to advise you. but the fact still stands. there is no '15yo rule' as such any more. it's now "pre 1988 rule" and will not change in the near future, if at all.

didn't see it but I did see another R33 autech GTR 4 door come up about a week or two back. I think USS chiba as well from memory. silver one. I've even seen one in the flesh on the street in chiba of all places! oddly enough the guy was parking it in the carpark of a hotel I was staying at. first real one I saw in the flesh. lol, grade 2, you don't see that too often.

guys loosing sleep over the pumps go and buy the reinik (edit reimax... still getting used to name change) gears. they are very highly regarded in japan and folks smarter than me have been using them in aus with great success. they may not be jumping up and down telling everyone about it, but the price is right, they have the research behind them to back up their product and that should be the end of your oil pump problems.

yeah it's not often they take the trouble to mention 'cancer'.... how many times have you seen nicely graded cars that you could just about flinstone to work they have that must rust in the floor. especially years ago when buying lots of cars for LVIS and 15yo rule the amount of grade for+ cars that were rusty was annoying to say the least. they should have been grade R for Rust. years ago I have too bought cars purely off description and years ago I knew importers that ONLY bought cars sight unseen. they were guys who had no partner in japan to inspect for them so had to take the word of either the jap dealer or places like isibike etc who only relay to them what's written on the sheet. it's just sad that here in aus people place so much stock in auction sheets. so much so that like I said you can have a bloke with the car in front of him and he's asking me what bloody grade it was when it put through auction in japan 2 years ago. who farken cares?!! the car is right here in front of you. auction sheets are for people who can't physically see the car. if you can see the car what does the sheet matter? look at it!!! give it your own bloody grade. call it grade A for awesome or grade S for shithouse but the last thing a buyer in aus should be caring about is what an underpaid overworked USS worker thought about it 2 months or 2 years ago. apart from the fact that looking at the car tells you far more, the fact is anything could have happened to it since the auction. it could have been left in 'storage' in knee deep snow for 6 months. or drifted into a pole on it's way to the compliance shop and hastily repaired after.... I cannot stress enough to people treat each car on it's merits. forget the sheet. that's for the buyer in japan to worry about. once he's looked at the car it's the inspection that counts.

If my bloody apartment gets sold between now and then (and it better) i'm there dude! good to see you're still keeping it real! haha. it's no fun to win just because you have the best toy and the most money and the biggest pantec. well that's what I keep telling myself...

dude, it's pretty easy. just take it to your local exhaust place. they will cut out the current flex and weld in a new one. it's not rocket science. and being that it's only one side of a twin front pipe the flex joint is not even that large so it shouldn't be too pricey.

yeah like shane said the numbers don't tell everything. there is a whole lot of complicated shit going on inside a 4 valve combustion chamber that cannot be completely explained just by the figures the head flows. it gets even more complicated when you add boost as we do... the proof of the pudding is in the eating... shane will know if the head is any good when the thing is running..

dude, he is selling you a pipe dream. all he's going to do is bore out the engine and fit some 88mm pistons and call it a 2.8. all it is really is a weaker 2.6. there is no way you can safely bore an RB26 out to 2.8 litre. a "proper" 2.8 involves a stroker crank, you increase the STROKE to get the added displacement (this also changes the bore/stroke ratio which changes the nature of the engine making it more 'torquey' less 'peaky'). all you're getting for your $3000 and 'warranty money' is you currently stuffed engine bored out as far as possible with some cheap forged pistons thrown in. it may still be a good deal IF and it's a big if, it's built properly. given they are making no money on it I personally have my doubts. my advice would be ask for a comprehensive list of what exactly is going into this $3000 forged 2.8 litre engine and what bore size etc? are they re-using your scored block? questions like that.

bell mouth is superior. simple. split dumps on small internal gate turbos are a big compromise as you end up with 2 very small pipes. and they then merge almost straight away anyway. also the claim of improved spool up is bullshit. how can they possibly improve spool up? while the turbo is spooling up the wastegate is CLOSED so the split is doing nothing. split or not split there is no wastegate gass mixing with turbine gass until the gate is open by which point the turbo is at or very near target boost. the bell mouth (well a good one) gives you greater overall area, gives greater flow, will make more power, and response (allows the gas to expand quickly) and you have no risk of any of the stupid problems people get with the cheap split dumps with wastegate flaps fouling etc.